ram air
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heh
Took the air silencer off, then i went to Menards and got a 3" dryer exhaust tube.. (its flexible) and i made a nice air scoop, then hooked up the other end to where the air silencer used to be. My air filter is nice and dirty now =)))) lol
Took the air silencer off, then i went to Menards and got a 3" dryer exhaust tube.. (its flexible) and i made a nice air scoop, then hooked up the other end to where the air silencer used to be. My air filter is nice and dirty now =)))) lol
Many of the old guard worked on ducted setups....
here's a quote from a post I made a few months ago:
"a couple of years back......and found they provided little or
no measurable benfit. Also, more and more people are learning
to refer to a ducted setup as "cold air" which is a more
accurate name.
The problem turned out to be this....simply not enough air volume..actually inertia also, at speeds below 100mph or so,
the cross section of the size of the scoops people were
incorporating into their "cold air" setup, as well as the
ducting cross section - could not physically direct enough air
into the air intakes (MAF's) of our engines to make a measurable increase in power.
If you could put a huge scoop....oh, four feet across with
gradually tapering ducting down to the (let's say 80mm) MAF then
you might create enough volume and air speed (inertia) to increase cylinder filling by a small amount. Even with such a setup, you'd
only realize the benefits towards the last part of your run....
above 60mph or so.
Where these setups do offer a little benefit on the street is
keeping ambient temperature air moving into the engine as opposed
to some engine heated air being mixed into the intake charge when cones are used without sealing them off in a box.
Detroit knew all about this back in the 60's-70's when they
slapped shakers and vacuum operated doors on the scoops of the
big muscle machines - they weren't worth squat on an et......but
they sure sold cars."
Hope this helps,
here's a quote from a post I made a few months ago:
"a couple of years back......and found they provided little or
no measurable benfit. Also, more and more people are learning
to refer to a ducted setup as "cold air" which is a more
accurate name.
The problem turned out to be this....simply not enough air volume..actually inertia also, at speeds below 100mph or so,
the cross section of the size of the scoops people were
incorporating into their "cold air" setup, as well as the
ducting cross section - could not physically direct enough air
into the air intakes (MAF's) of our engines to make a measurable increase in power.
If you could put a huge scoop....oh, four feet across with
gradually tapering ducting down to the (let's say 80mm) MAF then
you might create enough volume and air speed (inertia) to increase cylinder filling by a small amount. Even with such a setup, you'd
only realize the benefits towards the last part of your run....
above 60mph or so.
Where these setups do offer a little benefit on the street is
keeping ambient temperature air moving into the engine as opposed
to some engine heated air being mixed into the intake charge when cones are used without sealing them off in a box.
Detroit knew all about this back in the 60's-70's when they
slapped shakers and vacuum operated doors on the scoops of the
big muscle machines - they weren't worth squat on an et......but
they sure sold cars."
Hope this helps,
IF you want...you might add
opening. It won't add any power, just a "fun" mod. I use a
setup like that down here beacause at 106-108 degrees every day
at this time of year I like to think it might help, just a little
bit, in maintaining as low as possible an intake charge - every
degree lower, helps, in this heat!
Good luck with you mods,
some form of ducting from under the air box to your front bumperZackG said:Magerthom, I have also heard they provide almost no increase in performance.. But I need somethign to put at the bottom of what I did to my car
opening. It won't add any power, just a "fun" mod. I use a
setup like that down here beacause at 106-108 degrees every day
at this time of year I like to think it might help, just a little
bit, in maintaining as low as possible an intake charge - every
degree lower, helps, in this heat!
Good luck with you mods,
If you want instructions.....
Cold Air Intake Installation Instructions for 1994 to 1997 Thunderbirds
(May also work for 1989 to 1993 year Thunderbirds, and Cougars as well.)
Parts:
These can be found at Home Depot
1. 90 degree bend 4” PVC
1. 4” to 3” connector (black rubber piece)
1. 3” hose clamp
Phillips screwdriver (or electric drill helps)
Flat screwdriver or nut driver to match the screw head on the hose clamp
Time:
30 to 45 minutes (If you take your time.)
Note: You may want to jack your car up and take off the front right wheel, but I did it with the wheel in tact and on the ground just fine.
Installation:
1. Turn your wheels all the way to the left.
2. Unscrew the two screws underneath the front bumper. Your inner lining attaches here.
3. Unscrew the three screws that hold the black inner lining that attaches to the front of the right front wheel well (the body panel)
4. Turn your wheels all the way to the right.
5. Then there is one “plug” or black pin that you can pop out from the inner wheel well that will allow you to loosen the inner lining.
6. Now you can pull back the inner fender lining and bend it back behind the wheel and it should stay behind the wheel and allow you to work inside the fender well where the intake will go.
7. When looking up in the open area, you should see a black tube that comes down from the air filter box and then turns back up like a snorkel…. Take it off! It is in 3 pieces. Separate the snorkel and the piece that is attached to it from the down tube that is screwed to the bottom of the air filter box.
8. You will use the down tube so do not remove it.
Now you are ready to assemble the Scoop itself. There is a trick to this and if you do not do it right, it will not fit or will fall off.
1. You will need to separate the two pieces you just took off.
2. Throw away the snorkel part that turns up, you will never need that again as long as you live!
3. To make the assembly a sharper bend, we will put together the factory piece, the black connector, and 4” PVC.
4. Now for the adjusting part: You want to slide the outside of the assembly bends (angles) so they are greater than the inside bend (angle) of the assembly. Check the picture for an illustration.
Notice: The assembly does not point straight out to the fog light hole. It curves more along the right side of the front of the car and “snakes” around to point at the fog light hole at an outside to inside angle (like the way a fat curve ball comes at you!). This helps to keep bugs and junk from flying straight up your scoop into the air filter while still sucking up or scooping up cool air.
Additional Ideas: If you wished to protect against bugs, rocks, etc. you could take a portion of “metal screen” (mesh type wire) and fit it across the opening of the PVC pipe. An additional hose clamp around the PVC pipe can then secure it.
Again, this is not a ram air; it only makes your motor draw air from a cooler location which is always good.
You're welcome,
Big-Al
Cold Air Intake Installation Instructions for 1994 to 1997 Thunderbirds
(May also work for 1989 to 1993 year Thunderbirds, and Cougars as well.)
Parts:
These can be found at Home Depot
1. 90 degree bend 4” PVC
1. 4” to 3” connector (black rubber piece)
1. 3” hose clamp
Phillips screwdriver (or electric drill helps)
Flat screwdriver or nut driver to match the screw head on the hose clamp
Time:
30 to 45 minutes (If you take your time.)
Note: You may want to jack your car up and take off the front right wheel, but I did it with the wheel in tact and on the ground just fine.
Installation:
1. Turn your wheels all the way to the left.
2. Unscrew the two screws underneath the front bumper. Your inner lining attaches here.
3. Unscrew the three screws that hold the black inner lining that attaches to the front of the right front wheel well (the body panel)
4. Turn your wheels all the way to the right.
5. Then there is one “plug” or black pin that you can pop out from the inner wheel well that will allow you to loosen the inner lining.
6. Now you can pull back the inner fender lining and bend it back behind the wheel and it should stay behind the wheel and allow you to work inside the fender well where the intake will go.
7. When looking up in the open area, you should see a black tube that comes down from the air filter box and then turns back up like a snorkel…. Take it off! It is in 3 pieces. Separate the snorkel and the piece that is attached to it from the down tube that is screwed to the bottom of the air filter box.
8. You will use the down tube so do not remove it.
Now you are ready to assemble the Scoop itself. There is a trick to this and if you do not do it right, it will not fit or will fall off.
1. You will need to separate the two pieces you just took off.
2. Throw away the snorkel part that turns up, you will never need that again as long as you live!
3. To make the assembly a sharper bend, we will put together the factory piece, the black connector, and 4” PVC.
4. Now for the adjusting part: You want to slide the outside of the assembly bends (angles) so they are greater than the inside bend (angle) of the assembly. Check the picture for an illustration.
Notice: The assembly does not point straight out to the fog light hole. It curves more along the right side of the front of the car and “snakes” around to point at the fog light hole at an outside to inside angle (like the way a fat curve ball comes at you!). This helps to keep bugs and junk from flying straight up your scoop into the air filter while still sucking up or scooping up cool air.
Additional Ideas: If you wished to protect against bugs, rocks, etc. you could take a portion of “metal screen” (mesh type wire) and fit it across the opening of the PVC pipe. An additional hose clamp around the PVC pipe can then secure it.
Again, this is not a ram air; it only makes your motor draw air from a cooler location which is always good.
You're welcome,
Big-Al
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11,719 Posts
Yes
That is one way of doing it, but I decided to go with a bigger opening with a shorter travel distance design.
There are also pictures posted that go with the directions, but I just didn't feel like posting them this time. (It's not that hard to visualize)
So take your pick of which design you like best, I don't mind helping when I can.
Big-Al
That is one way of doing it, but I decided to go with a bigger opening with a shorter travel distance design.
There are also pictures posted that go with the directions, but I just didn't feel like posting them this time. (It's not that hard to visualize)
So take your pick of which design you like best, I don't mind helping when I can.
Big-Al
'96-97 'Birds Cold Air Scoop.....
It's a long story.....does anybody really care?
Keith Falerios made and sold a really nice scoop that fit
perfectly in the passenger side bumper opening - it was a
really nice piece of work. Mine got badly messed up, so I asked
Keith if I could buy another. To keep this story short, Keith's
not making them any longer. So I put mine back together (sort
of) but good enough to use as a guide. All you need is some
ducting and a couple of screw clamps to get the whole thing
working. If I can get some made.....would ANYBODY be the
slightest bit interested?
It's a long story.....does anybody really care?
Keith Falerios made and sold a really nice scoop that fit
perfectly in the passenger side bumper opening - it was a
really nice piece of work. Mine got badly messed up, so I asked
Keith if I could buy another. To keep this story short, Keith's
not making them any longer. So I put mine back together (sort
of) but good enough to use as a guide. All you need is some
ducting and a couple of screw clamps to get the whole thing
working. If I can get some made.....would ANYBODY be the
slightest bit interested?
Joined
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14,230 Posts
Re: Yes
And leaving in the part that is so restrictive about the silencer to begin with.Big-Al said:
Well
There isn't much you can do about that unless you cut out a larger hole in the bottom of the air box opening and use a larger diameter pipe, which I have not heard of anyone doing. Besides, the stock down piece conveniently attaches to the bottom of the air box opening and makes for a very handy install job. And as far as being restrictive, like I said, you would have to cut a bigger opening in the bottom of the air box to get rid of that. When I compaired mine to Gagfish, the main difference is mine uses less tubing with larger diameter opening which can't be negative.
There isn't much you can do about that unless you cut out a larger hole in the bottom of the air box opening and use a larger diameter pipe, which I have not heard of anyone doing. Besides, the stock down piece conveniently attaches to the bottom of the air box opening and makes for a very handy install job. And as far as being restrictive, like I said, you would have to cut a bigger opening in the bottom of the air box to get rid of that. When I compaired mine to Gagfish, the main difference is mine uses less tubing with larger diameter opening which can't be negative.
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14,230 Posts
Big-Al
8. You will use the down tube so do not remove it.
1. You will need to separate the two pieces you just took off.
2. Throw away the snorkel part that turns up, you will never need that again as long as you live!
3. To make the assembly a sharper bend, we will put together the factory piece, the black connector, and 4” PVC.
--
Sir Will
If you did precisely what those pics show, you failed to do the most important part! You didn't actually remove the restriction that is the silencer!
If you look at the first pic on that page, you see 3 parts. The instructions there are wrong!!! You need to get rid of the MIDDLE PART. That's the restriction that's supposed to be removed!
If you still have that section in yours, get it out! It doesn't matter how, just get it out.
--
The 3" end of the adapter does fit rather nicely if a bit snug on the downtube that your instructions say to leave on. Though I will agree it fits easier on the restrictive part that your instructions say to attach it to.
8. You will use the down tube so do not remove it.
1. You will need to separate the two pieces you just took off.
2. Throw away the snorkel part that turns up, you will never need that again as long as you live!
3. To make the assembly a sharper bend, we will put together the factory piece, the black connector, and 4” PVC.
--
Sir Will
If you did precisely what those pics show, you failed to do the most important part! You didn't actually remove the restriction that is the silencer!
If you look at the first pic on that page, you see 3 parts. The instructions there are wrong!!! You need to get rid of the MIDDLE PART. That's the restriction that's supposed to be removed!
If you still have that section in yours, get it out! It doesn't matter how, just get it out.
--
The 3" end of the adapter does fit rather nicely if a bit snug on the downtube that your instructions say to leave on. Though I will agree it fits easier on the restrictive part that your instructions say to attach it to.
Ummm yeah, what he said....
Look, as I said before I will say again: What I post is for the benefit of others, use it or don't. Shadow I know you have it on yours so you must be satisfied with it.
Also, if you do not cut out a bigger opening in the bottom of your air box (the metal part of your car) and you put on a short pipe with a larger diameter, than you haven't hurt anything, you've helped it.
And until someone starts cutting a bigger hole in the bottom of the air box, I really do not care what they say about restriction, diameter size is diameter size whether is be in a flat pice of metal or in a tube.
Or perhaps I am just trying to become a first gear poster....
Look, as I said before I will say again: What I post is for the benefit of others, use it or don't. Shadow I know you have it on yours so you must be satisfied with it.
Also, if you do not cut out a bigger opening in the bottom of your air box (the metal part of your car) and you put on a short pipe with a larger diameter, than you haven't hurt anything, you've helped it.
And until someone starts cutting a bigger hole in the bottom of the air box, I really do not care what they say about restriction, diameter size is diameter size whether is be in a flat pice of metal or in a tube.
Or perhaps I am just trying to become a first gear poster....
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14,230 Posts
Re: Ummm yeah, what he said....
Which I have of course removed. Again like everyone is stating it's not really doing anything anyway other than giving us an excuse to do something to make our car non-stock.
LOL that's probably it as the hole through the sheet metal is bigger than the 2" or so the inside of the restrictive piece of plastic from the air silencer is.Big-Al said:
Or perhaps I am just trying to become a first gear poster....
Which I have of course removed. Again like everyone is stating it's not really doing anything anyway other than giving us an excuse to do something to make our car non-stock.
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It's been almost 2 weeks thank you..
(17.17 posts per day)
(17.17 posts per day)
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uhh
Shadow, did you get that jpeg of the dragon breathing fire from a game called Ultima Online?
Shadow, did you get that jpeg of the dragon breathing fire from a game called Ultima Online?
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Actually I found the pic on a google search then trimmed and sized and colored to taste. Might have originated from there though.
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