TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well My car has been modified since I ownded it but Im not sure if its me or just normal maintenance. Well On the front drivers side I have a rattling bouncing type of sound from the drivers side suspension. as you hit bumps and such I don't think it is coming from the other side. it seems to drive straight and milage has not been affected. Is somethign warn out it?, has done it a long time but no mechanic has said anything to me about it so I figured it was normal but maybe not. I also have a right rear reaining nut getting loose all the time. I replaced the wheel bearing on the right rear once because it was shot. a lot of play in it. They had to press it out of the control arm and damn it was HARD. anyways it has come loose 3 times since then but not worn our bearing or anything.If it does then I got a bad housing and were talking $$$$. I also have 5/16 wheel spacers for my Chrome LiNCOLN ls RIMS. Would this be causing or giving me my grief? I also had a slight griding sound once on the same side. like a break sticking i went front and back and 10 mins later of driving slowly it went away and not retured. I contributed it to the wheel bearing nut being lose although it has never made that sound when it was before.
Do I get new differnt exact fit spacers? I got some universal ones now for a range of 5 bolt patterns. Maybe this will help. Do I need new suspension bushings all around? I have 68000 miles.

Also my car is taking a a few seconds to start. it used to pop right off but I have noticed it takes a little cranking sometimes or another hit for it to go. I think I have original sparkplugs and such. I have colder plugs waiting for my chip someday. Presently I have a power stat and a hypertech and an upgraded MAF and TB and the C&L plenum. This has worked just finr for me before so i don' think it woud be starting problems now. Maybe I need to ask when is the scheduled mior mainteance due for our car. I need an oil change so I am seeing what all needs to be looked at. Also I just replaced the front rotors and brand pads abotu 1 month agho as I got my new rims and tires and they stop good. Thanks all for reading this monster...


Regg
 

·
Pawn Shop Pro
Joined
·
466 Posts
the SAME exact thing happened to mine. It was the sawy bar lainks and the upper ball joint. Rounds out to about $250 all together. It's really annoying isn't it. But now it's all smooth and quiet.
 

·
Pawn Shop Pro
Joined
·
466 Posts
the SAME exact thing happened to mine. It was the sway bar links and the upper ball joint. Rounds out to about $250 all together. It's really annoying isn't it. But now it's all smooth and quiet.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,239 Posts
I have no idea how a control arm and a sway bar endlink cost you 250 dollars, you got ripped bad. The control arm is a 70 dollar item, and the endlink is 40 at most.

The retaining nut is

One time use only

You must buy a new one from the dealer, and torque it to 250ft/lbs before your suspension falls apart when you are driving.

As for the sound, get it up in the air and see whats going on.

If its clicking metal on metal sound, check out the sway bar endlinks, and if one is blown out, replace all of them.

If its more or a popping sound look into control arms or tierods.

Order the parts you need from fordpartshq.com or rockauto.com.

Wheel spacers suck. You are pulling the wheel off the hub, and it is no longer hubcentric, and you are putting stress on your lugnuts to hold the wheel on, and not the hub like it should be. Are you able to get the entire lugnut all the way on, and how much thread do you have left?

Wheel spacers can also cause bad vibrations on the highway. If you must use the spacer, then make sure that you replace the stock lug studs with ones a little longer. This is another safety issue.




JH
 

·
Whining Intakes Rock
Joined
·
3,645 Posts
JustinH said:

The retaining nut is
One time use only
SHhhhh don't want to stir up that hornets nest again. ;)
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top