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ok guys i changed my springs to H&R's i used new shocks but i left the stock end links for the sway bar. Now, im getting a clunk coming from the back when i turn and when i go over a speed bump, i took a look and it looks like my drivers side end link is missing the top rubber joint that goes with the screw, could this be causing this clunking noise??????

CamellionCat
 

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well looks like no one has an idea of what this could be, im just going to get me some new end-links and see what happens ill keep you informed.

CamellionCat
 

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The new springs dropped it down, didn't it? Your suppose to replace the endlinks when you put in drop springs.
 

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CamellionCat said:
well looks like no one has an idea of what this could be, im just going to get me some new end-links and see what happens ill keep you informed.

CamellionCat
I had the same rattle and it was driving me nuts! It sounded like a loose spare tire bouncing around back there. I took it to get inspected about 12 hours ago, and sure enough, both rubber joints that go with the screw you mentioned in the rear sway bar end links were MISSING! I went to a Ford dealer after not being able to find aftermarket polyurethane bushings for my car.

I paid $58.00 per side...end links, bushings, bolts. If I had waited and purchased these from Dan Newman, how much would they have cost? :(

Anyways, problem solved.
 

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Check this out. I posted this a couple of months ago in another thread.

Well, I just saved $75 by rebuilding my rear swaybar links. Ford wanted $50 each, so I got them from NAPA for $42 each (TRW). When I opened the package, I found that the nut that goes on the bottom of the link was too big. Both kits had the same problem. SOOOOO, after a few minutes of fussin and cussin, I evaluated the situation. I really didn't want to spend $100 and get them from FORD.

As most of you have probably discovered, it's the bushing in the top end of the links that generally gives out. I remembered that I had some inner liners from some split rims. The thickness of these inner liners is about 3/16 inch. After studying the top of the link and the steel sleeve, I figured that this was just about the perfect thickness to fit. I proceeded to cut a piece to the correct length that would fit snugly into the "ring" , with the seam to one side (not on the top or bottom!), put a dab of 3-in-one oil on the sleeve, and pounded it into the link, creating a very nice bushing. Then I cut the ends to fit snugly into the mounting bracket, and tightened it down. VOILA!!!!!! After doing the same to the other side, it was off to NAPA to return the defective links and get a refund. I then went to Advance Auto and found a set of polyurethane lower bushings in a link kit that was for, I believe, a 1974 Olds Cutlass (heavy duty kit). These cost about $10.50, and since I already had the material for the upper end of the link, the total cost for "LIKE NEW" rear links was under $11!!!!!!

Just thought you'd like to know
 

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Hey pileit1 that's great!

I admire those of you who can figure out how to save bucks by doing it yourself like that. I, unfortunately, am not one of them. :(

But more power, and ingenuity, to you! :thumbsup:
 
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