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Discussion Starter #1
just curious the write up says to use a 1/20th drill bit to put the whole through the bushing. what are people actually using as I can't seem to locate that size of a bit? better to go a little big or a little small?

Thanks,
David
 

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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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The article says to use a .050 drill bit for the bushing hole. Good hardware stores carry "wire size" drill bits. You won't find them at lowes and Home Depot usually. I'd go smaller rather than bigger as you wouldn't want to adversely affect line pressure. a 3/64 bit is a little smaller and probably easier to get.
Check out this drill conversion chart and compare.
Hope this helps with your question.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/drillsizeconvert.html
 

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The bit I use is .046. I have bought .050 bits but they are $5-6 each and for that I can get 10 of the .046 bits.
Alan
 

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& any Bit drills a few thousands over-size - Get a few as they tend to dig into softer metal like the Bushing & snap unless you have a dulled Bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anybody have correct part numbers for the bushing and seal? dumb lady at the parts counter can't get it right..............
 

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David,

You bumped two of your posts within 3 hrs. after you originally posted them. You need to let people wake up first! :eek:

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sorry but when i hit new posts they weren't showing up any more, just wanna resolve this on my way home from work at 11
 

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Well I buy the bushings and seals from a dedicated transmission parts house. The rest of the tranny parts I buy I get from DirtyDog or Ford.

I wouldn't think that a regular parts place would have the bushing. Autozone, O Reillys and the like may have the rear seal but in the past everything I bought there turned out to be wrong. So I found another source...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i was going through a stealership, called them today and what do you for some strange reason they think they have my part on the shelf and they don't normally carry..........i think the gal just got the wrong thing off the shelf. if somebody has ford #'s i'd still take them if before 11 so i can double check but i am taking the old pieces with me.

Thanks!
 

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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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Well I'd think the rear seal wouldn't be an issue. The bushing on the other hand I don't think that would be a common shelf item.
 

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& any Bit drills a few thousands over-size - Get a few as they tend to dig into softer metal like the Bushing & snap unless you have a dulled Bit.
Drill slower, lol. Soft metals like brass, bronze, copper and lead all have that problem. And your holes end up oversize. :thumbsup:

The metal 'flash melts', encases the bit, then cools, snapping the bit off. :) It happens faster than you can react; cutting fluid can help keep it cool, if the piece is thin.

Even if it doesn't melt enough to stop the bit, it can melt slightly, and make a hole a few thousandths bigger than you want. :( Not good if you want a nice, smooth hole.

Using a drill press +vice helps also, because the tendency is that the flutes on the bit will set the feed rate in soft metals if you're not careful. With a hand drill, the flutes will bury the bit if you let it. :) The drill press helps a lot.

IMHO, cutting fluid doesn't help much over ~1/2" thick; you just have to take your time.

I have some experience; I have to make test fixtures at times. Most of ours incorporate lead and/or copper. (And tungsten, which is a whole other problem, lol.)

I freeze 4"x6" lead bricks in ice before I drill small holes in them, lol.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimator

Thankfully, I don't have to do that often. :D I use lead bricks at work with .020" and .015"; they're 4" thick. Which stops 511keV photons pretty effectively, except where the hole is... :)

I have a lot better success than the guy that tried to do a .015" hole in 2" tungsten... drills aren't very effective; but wire edm works, lol.
 

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I've read several references to this rear cooling mod but I can't seem to find the writeup referencing this modification.
Would one of you folks kindly point me to this document and what benefits I may receive from such a mod? I see comments about a rear cooling mod for the 4.6L engine heads but nothing for 4r70w transmission.

Thanks,
-g
 

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I've read several references to this rear cooling mod but I can't seem to find the writeup referencing this modification.
Would one of you folks kindly point me to this document and what benefits I may receive from such a mod? I see comments about a rear cooling mod for the 4.6L engine heads but nothing for 4r70w transmission.

Thanks,
-g
Its not exactly a "cooling" mod ... its a Forced Lubrication to the transmission Tailshaft / driveshaft yoke.

Link here ..

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page12.shtml
 

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I pack the spring full of transgel or petroleum jelly, put a coat of hylamar on the outside of the seal and use paste thread sealer on the fittings.
Alan
 

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I've read several references to this rear cooling mod but I can't seem to find the writeup referencing this modification.
Would one of you folks kindly point me to this document and what benefits I may receive from such a mod? I see comments about a rear cooling mod for the 4.6L engine heads but nothing for 4r70w transmission.

Thanks,
-g
One of our Supporting Advertisers sells a kit:

http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/transmission-rebuild-kits-and-parts/aod/aode/4r70w/lube-mod-kit/prod_57.html

This is way easier than replacing the bushing myself, iirc.

I hear there's a discount for Club Membership, as well. :)
 

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