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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a specific tool or method for removing the Inner Bushings on the rear lower control arms? A friend of mine is having a hard time getting it done.
 

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:cool::cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hehe... That would be the friend.. ;) Any luck yet Jon?
 

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You can either use a press (which is the easy way)...

...or walk a drill around the rubber to remove the center of the bushing and then use a reciprocating saw to cut a lengthwise slit in the bearing shell, which makes it pretty much fall out.
 

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You can either use a press (which is the easy way)...

...or walk a drill around the rubber to remove the center of the bushing and then use a reciprocating saw to cut a lengthwise slit in the bearing shell, which makes it pretty much fall out.
Press is a given
I have the press and bushing backers. The problem is the bushing flange is larger diameter than the LCA housing. I cannot place a backer for the bushing to press through.
 

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Notice how large the flange to the left is.

 

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Press is a given
I have the press and bushing backers. The problem is the bushing flange is larger diameter than the LCA housing. I cannot place a backer for the bushing to press through.
Cut a bit of the bushing flange off on two sides.....
 

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Cut a bit of the bushing flange off on two sides.....
Well, If Mike doesn't mind I was going to try an Air hammer with a flat chisel on the flange-hoping to go from side to side and knock it out. The fear was dinging them up to bad to use as is if the bushings will not budge.

If the chisel doesn't walk them out I guess it would at least bend the flange down so it could ba hacked off easier. I guess I just needed someone elses permission to break out the barbaric forces. :D

I'll take the plasma cutter to em if you all say it is the thing to do. :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LOL Break out the barbaric forces Jon...
 

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Well, If Mike doesn't mind I was going to try an Air hammer with a flat chisel on the flange-hoping to go from side to side and knock it out. The fear was dinging them up to bad to use as is if the bushings will not budge.
This is how I took mine out; it mangles them, but they come right out.

The key is to use the air hammer to put three divots in the metal, pointing inward to the center, first. :)

Then, go around with the air hammer on the flange; if you start cutting the metal, drop the air pressure.

The first one took a few hours, using several methods; the other 3 came out in a flash. :facepalm:

They will not be reusable, and I have a Tennessee car; YMMV depending on corrosion.

Good luck; you need a fairly special jig to get them out with a press. :zdunno:
 

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This is how I took mine out; it mangles them, but they come right out.

The key is to use the air hammer to put three divots in the metal, pointing inward to the center, first. :)

Then, go around with the air hammer on the flange; if you start cutting the metal, drop the air pressure.

The first one took a few hours, using several methods; the other 3 came out in a flash. :facepalm:

They will not be reusable, and I have a Tennessee car; YMMV depending on corrosion.

Good luck; you need a fairly special jig to get them out with a press. :zdunno:
This is how my old ones came out and they had no rust. They had to be mangled.
 

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Time for Mark VIII LCA's, bushings are cake on those.
Except that, other than me ;), no one makes replacement LCA bushings for the Mark VIII LCA's.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Just how fast do those mark bushings go bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Actually I have Mark VIII lowers on my car now. But the car just isn't sitting the same. It is riding higher in the back since I put them in. Looks like the rear is stock height, and the front is lowered. Waited for the springs to settle, the spring isolators to settle, etc. But its still high in the back. So goin back to the stock arms. Jon is taking the bushings out and powdercoating them for me beforehand.
 

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Actually I have Mark VIII lowers on my car now. But the car just isn't sitting the same. It is riding higher in the back since I put them in. Looks like the rear is stock height, and the front is lowered. Waited for the springs to settle, the spring isolators to settle, etc. But its still high in the back. So goin back to the stock arms. Jon is taking the bushings out and powdercoating them for me beforehand.
That doesn't make sense to me. In order to get the same ride height on a T-Bird with Mark VIII LCA's you need to use a perch with around a 3/8" base.

Do you have a spring perch in your Mark VIII LCA's now?

If not, it's going to ride even higher with the stock LCA's.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yep, got the perches and the LCA's in one purchase. They are good quality no complaints there. But the car just hasn't looked the same since I put them in.
 

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Yep, got the perches and the LCA's in one purchase. They are good quality no complaints there. But the car just hasn't looked the same since I put them in.
Which perches do you have? The aluminum ones with angled base or some of my UHMW perches? How thick is the base?
 

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The poly isolators are said to sit higher than the rubber ones as well.
They do, which is why I dropped the thickness of the base on the perches I make from 1/2" to 3/8".
 
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