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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi.

I am planning to replace the bushings in the rear and am stuck on the LCA bushings. I'm not really looking to put any delrin bushings as this is my daily and don't ever put it on the track. Is this the correct rear lower control arm to subframe bushing? Its the ACDELCO 45G11057 Professional: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=356291&cc=1140567&jsn=14101

I see it says Inner, which I do not know what it means. It appears rockauto doesn't sell a MOOG one either.

Thoughts? Thanks
 

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You need this:

ACDELCO 45G11057 {#88912804} Professional

and

ACDELCO 45G9322 {#19186027} Professional

That's the LCA bushings, stock replacement.

You also need:

ACDELCO 45G26032 {#19187073} Professional

The Toe corrector.

You may also need:

ACDELCO 45G11001 {#88912749} Professional

It's the Inner Upper control arm bushing.

The Knuckle bushings are only available as Poly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the info! Couple questions.


You need this:

ACDELCO 45G11057 {#88912804} Professional
Yeah that's what I was thinking. I'll need 4 of these.


ACDELCO 45G9322 {#19186027} Professional

That's the LCA bushings, stock replacement.
These are for the front, no?


You may also need:

ACDELCO 45G11001 {#88912749} Professional

It's the Inner Upper control arm bushing.
Are these equivalent to the MOOG K8562, in quality?


The Knuckle bushings are only available as Poly.
Have the Energy ones in my cart :grin2:
 

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You may also need:

ACDELCO 45G11001 {#88912749} Professional

It's the Inner Upper control arm bushing.
Are these equivalent to the MOOG K8562, in quality?
Actually, no. They work; the current Moog production are total crap (don't pivot right; there's a thread or twenty on them already, as well as on most parts.)

RwP
 

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Be careful with that job. I'm sure you know, the spring tension is held back by that control arm.

Out of curiosity, what makes you think those bushings are bad?

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually, no. They work; the current Moog production are total crap (don't pivot right; there's a thread or twenty on them already, as well as on most parts.)

RwP
Well that's good to know. Thanks!

Be careful with that job. I'm sure you know, the spring tension is held back by that control arm.

Out of curiosity, what makes you think those bushings are bad?

Al
Yeah I learned that when putting on the lowering springs but I appreciate the heads up! I hear clunks all over the rear suspension when driving. I can raise up the back end and see all the play in the parts. I'm sure they've never been replaced since factory.
 

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Great meeting you & your friend yesterday Zak!
 

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Yeah I learned that when putting on the lowering springs but I appreciate the heads up! I hear clunks all over the rear suspension when driving. I can raise up the back end and see all the play in the parts. I'm sure they've never been replaced since factory.
Pretty much the only part that makes an audible sound is a bad sway bar end link.

Al
 

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The UCA to frame bushing makes a LOUD clunk. My sway bar links are relatively new too.
The easy way to check that bushing is to put your foot on the top edge of the tire, and try to rock the car back and forth; when it gets to a certain point, you will hear it going clunk-clunk-clunk. :)

The rubber will have turned to powder, and exited the vehicle. :grin2:

There's a post somewhere here where I replaced those.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The easy way to check that bushing is to put your foot on the top edge of the tire, and try to rock the car back and forth; when it gets to a certain point, you will hear it going clunk-clunk-clunk. :)

The rubber will have turned to powder, and exited the vehicle. :grin2:

There's a post somewhere here where I replaced those.
Yeah its shot.

As far as the rear sway bar bushings, RockAuto stocks the energy ones in black and red. Both say poly bushings, but the price is pretty different, $12 vs $20. Know of any differences?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So I finally got in there and disassembled the rear suspension. Looks like the UCA-to-frame bushings and toe compensators are completely shot, as well as some of the knuckle bushings. Ill be replacing all the knuckle bushings with the poly ones I ordered and will need to order toe compensators as I didn't expect those to be totally done.

The LCA-to-frame bushings (all 4) still seem to be good and firm, although slightly worn after 25 years. Is it worth replacing those? I mistakenly ordered 4 of those forward bushings tho, so I'd need to order 2 rearwards.
 

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Me being me, I'd replace everything that's been touched. Especially if it's 25yrs old....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How in the world did yall replace your LCA rearward and forward bushings?!

There's pretty much no way to get a receiver cup on the flange side which causes the C-clamp press to angle and not seat correctly! These bushings are a pain in the @$$. I saw two methods by other people:
1. Pressing out the rubber then cutting the outer shell in with like a sawzall
2. Grinding down the flange enough to either break it off to get the receiver cup to fit on then press out

There's got to be a better method, no? I rented the whole large bushing press kit from Advance. One way I found that might work is using only one of the receiver cups that seats like 90% flush and running a threaded bolt through the bushing fitted with some washers on the end and try to press it out that way.

Thoughts?
 

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How in the world did yall replace your LCA rearward and forward bushings?!

There's pretty much no way to get a receiver cup on the flange side which causes the C-clamp press to angle and not seat correctly! These bushings are a pain in the @$$. I saw two methods by other people:
1. Pressing out the rubber then cutting the outer shell in with like a sawzall
2. Grinding down the flange enough to either break it off to get the receiver cup to fit on then press out

There's got to be a better method, no? I rented the whole large bushing press kit from Advance. One way I found that might work is using only one of the receiver cups that seats like 90% flush and running a threaded bolt through the bushing fitted with some washers on the end and try to press it out that way.

Thoughts?
That should do it.

Since I'm going Delrin, I need to leave the cups in there; so I used the old torch-it-out method.

RwP
 
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