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1995 40th Anniversary Edition 4.6L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howzit folks, most of you have been through what I just finished and was wondering if I can get some thoughts on what seems to be a really stiff rear suspension. It seems to pop up quick and hard to push down. I have not driven the car yet as it goes to alignment shop on Monday, so I'm thinking wait until all is done to see if something is not right.
My first phase just finished was all new suspension/steering/brake components. Upgraded to mustang hubs, PBR Front brakes, disc rear and a bigger rear sway bar, with shorter links. And new wheels, 19x9.5 rear and 19x8 front.
I used the Vogtland 1.6 springs as they are only set available. I also used the Bilstein Cobra rear shocks PN 24185974.
I realize this is before alignment and you can see it's way off now, and have not driven but has anyone seen or felt like it was super stiff?
Thanx in advance
 

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Rofl, I feel your pain.
I replaced all the rear suspension a few years ago, all poly, sport springs with konis, mark lca's.
It was so ******* stiff, I needed a kidney belt, lol.
It softened a bit after a month of daily drives, but damn, it's stiff.
I like canyon carving, so it's nice; but it was a surprise.
 

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1991 Mercury Cougar LS 5.0 in restoration
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Nice looking car! I agree that springs do need to be broken in, but it won't change a ton. Drive you've just tightened everything up, you may see a touch more change. I'd say give it some time.
 

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1995 40th Anniversary Edition 4.6L
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you tightened down all of the hardware, was the suspension loaded ??
Actually, as soon as I read this I doubted myself. I know it needs to tighten with weight on wheels, but I might have made them too tight while on two post lift.
I'll ask alignment shop to loosen and re-tighten on Monday, thank you!
 

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Our cars' adjustments amazed my alignment guy; "any whack job that fucked this alignment up is an idiot."
I answered, " I replaced everything." Oh... He set it up with the settings from the article; those work really well. they are within the range of 'good' but it is not where he would have set it, as he told me.
 

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1994 Black T-Bird 4.6 DOHC TR-3650
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Very nice car! If it is very stiff, what diameter of sway bar did you put at rear?
 

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The stock sway bar on the sport model will lift the odd wheel, gpoing into odd sngled parking lots.
 

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1994 Black T-Bird 4.6 DOHC TR-3650
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You run the biggest sway bar available, with 19". It will handle perfectly, but I think you can expect a very stiff ride.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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The stiffness of a huge bar won’t be felt unless you go up a bump at an angle, that’s the nature of them. Springs you can feel the stiffness just by pushing down on the car, and compared to stock LX springs Vogtlands will naturally feel pretty stiff. Bushing bind can play a role if they’re torqued in droop but not as much as the springs, ride height is what you’ll notice with that, not necessarily the additional stiffness.

You didn’t really need the SCP arms for the 1.6” drop springs, I believe you need 2” or more drop before you end up running out of adjustment. The design is actually not to shabby though, the tubular construction is absurdly overkill but the spherical bearing in a factory style cam sleeve for the UCA is pretty trick. Gives me an idea💡

 

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1995 40th Anniversary Edition 4.6L
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The stiffness of a huge bar won’t be felt unless you go up a bump at an angle, that’s the nature of them. Springs you can feel the stiffness just by pushing down on the car, and compared to stock LX springs Vogtlands will naturally feel pretty stiff. Bushing bind can play a role if they’re torqued in droop but not as much as the springs, ride height is what you’ll notice with that, not necessarily the additional stiffness.

You didn’t really need the SCP arms for the 1.6” drop springs, I believe you need 2” or more drop before you end up running out of adjustment. The design is actually not to shabby though, the tubular construction is absurdly overkill but the spherical bearing in a factory style cam sleeve for the UCA is pretty trick. Gives me an idea💡

View attachment 46639
I copy all, and yes I believe I tightened up with it drooping, I should know better. I actually lifted the knuckles to get to what I thought was ride height before I tightened. But now in hindsight and sway bar hooked up, you cannot get knuckle up to simulate ride height cause sway bar will fight it from other side right?
Anyway, will have it all loosened and retorqued at alignment on Monday and then see where I'm at on everything.
Thanks for all your folks inputs.
 

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I copy all, and yes I believe I tightened up with it drooping, I should know better. I actually lifted the knuckles to get to what I thought was ride height before I tightened. But now in hindsight and sway bar hooked up, you cannot get knuckle up to simulate ride height cause sway bar will fight it from other side right?
Anyway, will have it all loosened and retorqued at alignment on Monday and then see where I'm at on everything.
Thanks for all your folks inputs.
That's why you do it on ramps with both rear wheels loaded. If you jacked ONE up, no; the sway bar will fight you.

You COULD do it with the sway bar disconnected and THEN reconnect it. (That's close to a "Herp Derp" once you think about it any.)

RwP
 

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So if you don't have ramps, what is the best way to get it done? The lift it up and tighten everything up before the sway bar?
 

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So if you don't have ramps, what is the best way to get it done? The lift it up and tighten everything up before the sway bar?
Rent or buy some ramps 😁

How else are you fitting under there?

But yes; my second choice would be a jack stand at the outer edge of the LCA, right at the spindle point.

RwP
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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The way I used to do it is if I had the whole knuckle or inner LCA bolts removed for whatever reason, I’d assemble it loosely together to both control arms without the spring and jack it up to rough ride eyeball height and torque the LCA/knuckle bolts to spec there, then remove the UCA bolt, drop the LCA and knuckle down, install the spring and jack under the rotor until the car starts to lift and then torque the UCA to knuckle.

If you have poly or delrin bushings knuckle bushings it doesn’t matter, those bushings freely rotate on the lubricated sleeve without bind.
 

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I'll add that for the poly and delrin bushings, I ran across a tip that helps.


Sounds interesting; I'll be doing that on some bushings on my Dakota as I rebuild the front end (I dunno, don't seem to last much past 200,000 miles .... 😝 )

RwP
 

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The rubber bushings will tear, if you tighten them in the air
 
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