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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if a rear shock tower brace for a sn95 or new edge mustang would fit our cars without too much trouble?
 

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Your probably going to be better off making one. Someone had one for sale here recently and posted several good pictures. It looked like a little angle iron for the ends, a cross tube, and drilling 4 or 8 holes through the wheel wells for the bolts would be all you need. It should make for a comfortable afternoon project- providing you have access to a welder.
 

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Racecougar used to make them; I have his rear braces in all the cars now.

But it's been awhile since I've seen any braces being made by anyone.

I lucked out and got one set of the subframe connectors and all, a set of IRS bracing someone made, and one FSTB that I bent hitting a curb. :) It was from JL, and it's so strong, I can't bend it back.

At this point, if I needed a rear STB, I'd tig a couple of brackets to a piece of 80/20; it would be Much lighter. ~$50 plus tig costs.

Maybe someone will need some Christmas money this year. >:)

I'd buy a couple of sets of everything Except the RSTB, if the right people made them. :)
 

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Joe, who used to make braces with JL?

I wonder if anyone got his designs... :frown2:
 

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Kris would probably know better than me. I thought he did most of the work himself and he had someone helping him with the welding.

Joe
 

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Does installing the front and rear bars by themselves make a nice difference on these cars? I know most people do multiple suspension mods at the same time.

I installed F&R bars on my old 90 Eagle Talon TSI AWD, and just the front bar made the steering much more responsive and crisp. The rear bar helped eliminate wheel hop, and so did an aftermarket rear sway bar.

Al
 

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Does installing the front and rear bars by themselves make a nice difference on these cars? I know most people do multiple suspension mods at the same time.

I installed F&R bars on my old 90 Eagle Talon TSI AWD, and just the front bar made the steering much more responsive and crisp. The rear bar helped eliminate wheel hop, and so did an aftermarket rear sway bar.

Al
Every car has different handling capabilities and will respond to different suspension mods differently. What amounts to best practices for a front engined, AWD vehicle with IIRC a center viscous diff may not necessarily apply to a front engined, RWD boat ahem "personal luxury vehicle."


With a car this old, the best thing you can do for your handling is a) replace the front & rear struts with new ones even if they are OE grand and b) go through and replace all of the 20yrold shocks/struts + bushings. Even OE shocks that can be had for $20-30/ea will likely feel a lot better than the worn out ones on your car now.

Replacing Struts is an easy fix with just hand tools and if you do the labor yourself, you will get more bang/buck than spending $120+ on a bracket of metal that purports to solve a minor problem. You can also while you are at it decide if you want lowering springs or not.

If you are really seeing an issue with wheel hop, there are other fixes which just cost time and a welder. I found these by searching for "wheel hop" on google with "site:tccoa.com"
http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspension/56383-wheel-hop-who-has-what-did-you-do-about.html
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12how-to/irs/irs.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cant I just get some 1/4" thick flat metal bar from home depot and some bolts, it would be way cheaper.
 

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Cant I just get some 1/4" thick flat metal bar from home depot and some bolts, it would be way cheaper.
If you want to make the 1/4" bar thicker to reduce flex, just buy 2x the length of 1/2" flat metal bar and duct tape them together. Just remember to use a high quality duct tape like Gorilla Tape.. and I'm sure it will work fabulously.

-g
 

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Gorilla Tape rocks!

Actually, that's the only thing they make that is good, all their glues are bullshit. I could glue more with maple syrup.

Al
 
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