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Discussion Starter #1
My '95 v8 has been misfiring like crazy as of late and I decided to check out why that may be. Pulling the plugs, I found white carbon residue on all the plugs, and despite no real buildup, it appeared they were getting really hot. I also noticed oil on the cyl #6 and #8 plugs and upon further inspection, confirmed a light coating of oil on top of the pistons. Considering this engine has at least 130k on it and is leaking from nearly every conceivable gasket, my question to you guys is whether this engine is worth rebuilding or should I just try and find another engine? I'd really like to have a late model p71 (for PI top end and COP setup) or 5.4 in it, but if rebuilding is a better option, then I'll go that route. Thoughts?

Also, it would appear my input and tailshaft seals are leaking pretty bad. Is this something the trans needs to be disassembled to replace or it just a rubber press in piece like most axle seals?
 

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Tail shaft seal I believe can be replaced easy but the input shaft isnt. The pump cover will have to be pulled off with a slide hammer to put the seal in correctly. About the engine, should be easily rebuild-able but that may be more time and cost more. Guys here arent typically ones for 5.4s and I believe there and clearance issues with both the hood and the shock towers since the engines deck height is higher, pushes everything up and out. I have a 4.6 from a crown vic in my car now thats all built up so you can go that route, if you leave it a stock engine itll be a direct swap, though youll have to modify the passenger coil pack mount to fit with the updated timing cover if you just want to drop it in. you will have to transfer the Tbird oil pick up and oil pan over though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick reply. I've prolly read that article a dozen times in trying to figure out what I'm gonna do with the car. I also poked around for info on the 5.4 swap which seems more trouble than its worth considering the engine's lacking performance and it would seem there isn't a whole lot of info here on making the COP setup from the later engines work. Car isn't meant to be a track monster, just a cruiser. Stockish engine with some 3.55's would do me just fine. Truth be told I'd love to do a big single turbo, but I know for certain I don't have the money nor the expertise to make that happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tail shaft seal I believe can be replaced easy but the input shaft isnt. The pump cover will have to be pulled off with a slide hammer to put the seal in correctly. About the engine, should be easily rebuild-able but that may be more time and cost more. Guys here arent typically ones for 5.4s and I believe there and clearance issues with both the hood and the shock towers since the engines deck height is higher, pushes everything up and out. I have a 4.6 from a crown vic in my car now thats all built up so you can go that route, if you leave it a stock engine itll be a direct swap, though youll have to modify the passenger coil pack mount to fit with the updated timing cover if you just want to drop it in. you will have to transfer the Tbird oil pick up and oil pan over though.
Thanks for the info! Good to know something on this bird might actually go smoothly. What year did you pull your engine from? Did you end up swapping over the sensors and stuff or did you have the splice the new sensors into the old harness? As for hood clearance (not that it'll matter) I was always a fan of engines sticking out of hoods and stuff. I know there are a lot of guys here that are vehemently against such barbarism as to cut holes in hoods, but my car already looks like ****. What's another hole?

4.6 dohc time..
Pretty strait forward install and will have all the power you want..
That's true enough, but power isn't really the end goal for me. I'll have to see what pops up when the time comes to actually do the work. I kinda feel like a 4v would be wasted on this car considering how **** shape its in. Either I'm looking in the wrong place, or there just aren't an abundance of good engines around me in North Jersey
 

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The bottom end of the engine is most likely fine. 130K is nothing for a 4.6. What is most likely happening is the valve guides in the heads are shot, causing it to burn oil. I would say a PI head swap will most likely resolve your issues, and give you a nice performance boost at the same time. While this can certainly be done in the car, if the engine is leaking from the oil pan gasket as well, now would be a good time to pull the motor to reseal everything, which will also make the head swap a lot easier.
 

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I used an 03. Youll need to drill and tap a new hole for the second coolant sensor or splice them together. Youll have to transfer your plenum and TB assembly, EGR, fuel rail, exhaust manifolds, and oil dipstick tube to make the top end work which isnt hard at all, most of that stuff will be coming apart to hold the engine on a hoist. The Crank position sensor and Cam position sensor were used from the 2003 engine because the are the same. Use your stock fuel injectors because they and the new ones are both 19lb but the new ones have a different plug. I saw you were thinking about going turbo, with how these cars are set up itll be alot of trouble, and since you dont seem to be looking at making this car a complete racecar it may be more trouble than its worth for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The 5.4 is a **** engine. It's not the holes in the hood, it's the 50 lbs of extra mass on the nose of an already front heavy chassis and no more power(and less potential to make more) than a 4.6
Yeah, I've found that by reading the old posts. And here I was wondering why there was so little info on 5.4's in the MN12...

The bottom end of the engine is most likely fine. 130K is nothing for a 4.6. What is most likely happening is the valve guides in the heads are shot, causing it to burn oil. I would say a PI head swap will most likely resolve your issues, and give you a nice performance boost at the same time. While this can certainly be done in the car, if the engine is leaking from the oil pan gasket as well, now would be a good time to pull the motor to reseal everything, which will also make the head swap a lot easier.
Yeah, the pan, oil filter housing, front and rear main seals, valve covers, prolly the heads too somewhere are all leaking oil. If nothing else, would need all new gaskets. There's so many options still available right now though and considering the last set of PI heads I saw were as much as a whole engine, its all a wash. New heads, plus a master gasket set, plus all the supporting stuff...still gonna be pricey.

I used an 03. Youll need to drill and tap a new hole for the second coolant sensor or splice them together. Youll have to transfer your plenum and TB assembly, EGR, fuel rail, exhaust manifolds, and oil dipstick tube to make the top end work which isnt hard at all, most of that stuff will be coming apart to hold the engine on a hoist. The Crank position sensor and Cam position sensor were used from the 2003 engine because the are the same. Use your stock fuel injectors because they and the new ones are both 19lb but the new ones have a different plug. I saw you were thinking about going turbo, with how these cars are set up itll be alot of trouble, and since you dont seem to be looking at making this car a complete racecar it may be more trouble than its worth for you.
So basically the same as the Explorer engine swap linked earlier? And yeah, I'd love to take a powerstroke takeoff turbo and put it where the airbox is, but I have neither the knowhow nor the funds to make that work on top of also having to sort out this ailing engine. Besides, I just sank some 600 bucks into this true duals setup and still haven't even gotten the finishing welds done. Would be a shame to throw all that down the toilet for a pipe dream (heh, i make joke).
 

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Theres no room to route the exhaust up front with the A/C system and lower coolant hoses in their current place, and with those moved youd still have to dump the down pipe out in the front because there isnt enough room to fish it back. You could try going underneath the car but then youll have no ground clearance. A turbo on a 4.6 car is not for the faint of heart, to say the least.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Theres no room to route the exhaust up front with the A/C system and lower coolant hoses in their current place, and with those moved youd still have to dump the down pipe out in the front because there isnt enough room to fish it back. You could try going underneath the car but then youll have no ground clearance. A turbo on a 4.6 car is not for the faint of heart, to say the least.
Right? Was thinking of routing the piping back over the engine, but like you said there's no room to fish a 3" pipe around the engine and trans at the firewall. Ground clearance was initially a concern due to the plan of putting it on SCP coilovers at SOME point, so its becoming less and less realistic.

I've also thought it would cool to slap a new 2.3t up front and give it a Turbocoupe vibe, but those engines (the mustang ones) are really f'n expensive for what they are. Then I thought, what about a 1J/2J? 3.5k for a good one, then all the supporting mods, standalone, blah blah blah... Um...old 289/302? Wrong mounts, bolt pattern and tough to get one in good shape that hasn't been built for racing already. Coyote? Custom K-frame, oil pan, none of the electronics play nice, etc. (I've been following some of the really cool 5.0 builds on here and MMFF). I kinda gave up on this being a "nice" car. I'd rather it be comfortable, capable and sound good at this point.
 

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Im planning on a 2j at one point dont beat me to it lol. But that would have problems too, youd have to cut the firewall and push it back at least a few inches so the front accessories would clear the radiator. These cars arent easy to mess with, 4v 4.6s are fun and will fit, youll have to get a tune and lengthen parts of the 2v harness though.
 

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Im planning on a 2j at one point dont beat me to it lol. But that would have problems too, youd have to cut the firewall and push it back at least a few inches so the front accessories would clear the radiator. These cars arent easy to mess with, 4v 4.6s are fun and will fit, youll have to get a tune and lengthen parts of the 2v harness though.
This guy beat you by about 11 years :D

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/u1iLl81_ra0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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This guy beat you by about 11 years :D

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/u1iLl81_ra0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Rb30 then, lol.
 

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How about:

Quad Turbos!!



:zspot:

Pretty much any engine mod beyond exhaust and CAI mods needs a tune.

PI engines tune differently than NPI, and DOHC is even more different.

Thank $diety for value files, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How about:
Quad Turbos!!
Now there's a reference from the stone age, lol. Not gonna lie would be cool to see that, but never gonna happen on my car, hahaha!

Thank you guys so much for the replies. I see there are some differences in opinion here, all of which are valid, reasonable options. Unfortunately there is no clear path to take until I start pricing things out which it looks like will be a chore in and of itself. Since price is a major concern here, it is quite likely that a replacement NPI will be the cheapest (and most difficult to find in reasonable condition), while the rebuild may be the most expensive up front since all the cost comes in parts. However, I would prolly get the most mileage out of a rebuild with a hone, rings, likely valve guides as was suggested may be an issue, and bearings all being high wear items that I won't want to have to touch again in the lifetime of the car. I will be doing all the work myself, eventually, so labor costs are not so much an issue. I am still as confused as ever with which direction to take...
 

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Since you mention doing all the labor yourself, it wouldn't be completely stupid to rebuild it. If you weren't doing all the machining and labor yourself then I'd DEFINITELY suggest a PI engine, they are not expensive at the pick a part. But I'd do a reseal on one of those as well no matter what, if you're putting any used engine in, whether it leaks or not, a reseal is the best insurance.
 
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