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Discussion Starter #1
I aquired a 3.27 tracloc from a fellow chapter member recently and when I got it, he said it would be a good idea to replace the seals. I also want to rebuild the differential with new clutches.

I know that when you replace gears, you have to set the backlash and other things correctly. I did a search here and on the web but could not find direction on how to just replace the clutches and seals. The pinion seal is the one I am mainly concerned about as I don't know if the pinion has to come out and if it does do I still need to use a new crush sleeve, new shims, etc.

Has anyone rebuilt their tracloc? How hard is it or should I just take it to a shop?
 

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I rebuilt the one in the 7.5 in my 85 Ranger. It wasn't too difficult. You really probably want a service manual to look at while doing it. It will tell you the part number for the tool to use to get the proper thickness for the shims behind the clutches. If you are replacing the pinion seal, then I am sure you will have to do more work though, I just did the clutches. I don't think it would be necessary to do the pinion seal unless removing the pinion which isn't necessary to rebuild the clutches. You should replace the axle seals though. The rear end is nice and tight, it isn't making any noises, seems to be just fine.

I had the one in the T-bird done, but I had new gears installed too when it was rebuilt so it needed all the backlash and wear pattern and everything checked so I gave it to someone who knew what they were doing.
 

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no you dont need to set the rear back up if your not changing gears, your just changing out the carrier correct? if so that s all you need to do ,a nd btw amke sure you mark the ring and the pinion to ensure you get them lined back up correctly.
 

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4 Cam Bird said:
I rebuilt the one in the 7.5 in my 85 Ranger. It wasn't too difficult. You really probably want a service manual to look at while doing it. It will tell you the part number for the tool to use to get the proper thickness for the shims behind the clutches. If you are replacing the pinion seal, then I am sure you will have to do more work though, I just did the clutches. I don't think it would be necessary to do the pinion seal unless removing the pinion which isn't necessary to rebuild the clutches. You should replace the axle seals though. The rear end is nice and tight, it isn't making any noises, seems to be just fine.

I had the one in the T-bird done, but I had new gears installed too when it was rebuilt so it needed all the backlash and wear pattern and everything checked so I gave it to someone who knew what they were doing.
Did you go with the extra two clutches or just keep the 6 (is it 6 and the "upgrade" is 8?)

I've also heard that the truck 8.8 has a beefer tension spring. Can anyone confirm that? :2huh:
 

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double check it anyways. You can do it the ghetto way real quick with a piece of loose leaf paper, just try to slide it in between the teeth, if it cuts the paper, or it won't go in, it's too tight, if it slides in easily, it's too loose. I know it's not the right way to do it, but if you don't have the proper tools, it's actually pretty close.
 

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replacing the clutches is easy and you dont have to change any shims, however if you replace the pinion seal you can reuse the crush sleeve if you are careful but you need a new pinion nut because the old one is a cruch nut and could work loose. Good Luck, Larry
 

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i believe it does 94 dd, mine i my 96 f150 was pretty big ,but i shattered 2 ford trac locks in it. i cant say anything reat about big tires and stock trac locks... spring seemed bigger than the one in my cat.
 

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I was trying to tell him the right way to do it by saying to use the thickness tool and stuff to find the shim to put behind the clutch packs. On my truck, I just used the standard number of clutches, whatever was in the box, and put the factory shim back in. It fit together REAL tight like that, more clutches weren't going in there for sure. I don't know if the truck spring is heavier or not. It was MIA when I took my rearend apart which is why the clutches were worn out completely so I had to buy a knew one. The hardest part was definitely getting that spring in there.

On the car, the guy that did the gear set up did it all, and since I didn't buy it any extra clutches, it wouldn't have recieved any extra clutches. Its still real tight and every once in a while in a prking lot I'll hear one tire slide a bit.

Make sure to buy an extra bottle of friction modifier, you need one to soak the clutches in before assembly, then you need one to put in with the gear oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
4 Cam Bird said:
You really probably want a service manual to look at while doing it.
I have a Haynes book on the car. I don't know how much it covers about differentials as I really have not looked for it in there yet. I do know that they are not the BEST for specific things about the car because they cover several model years and designs.

4 Cam Bird said:
I don't think it would be necessary to do the pinion seal unless removing the pinion which isn't necessary to rebuild the clutches. You should replace the axle seals though.
I want to replace all three seals as it is a used pumpkin and it looks like the pinion seal has been leaking. I also read in other places that it is a good idea to polish the pinion where it meets the seal to smooth this area so the new seal does not start leaking.

jk89cat said:
no you dont need to set the rear back up if your not changing gears, your just changing out the carrier correct? if so that s all you need to do ,a nd btw amke sure you mark the ring and the pinion to ensure you get them lined back up correctly.
No I am not changing out the carrier, just want to replace the clutches in the current carrier and the three seals. When you say mark the ring and the pinion to ensure you get them lined back up, do you mean with the gear marking grease?

94 Daily Driven 4.6L said:
I've also heard that the truck 8.8 has a beefier tension spring. Can anyone confirm that? :2huh:
I remember reading somewhere about the f150 but I think it was in the JMOD tranny article (god I have so many plans but not enough time) but I would imagine that the truck 8.8 does have a beefier spring. I will see if I can find where I read it and post a link.

bluebird95 said:
...but you need a new pinion nut because the old one is a cruch nut and could work loose. Good Luck, Larry
4 Cam Bird said:
Make sure to buy an extra bottle of friction modifier, you need one to soak the clutches in before assembly, then you need one to put in with the gear oil.
I will keep these in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
94 Daily Driven 4.6L said:
I've also heard that the truck 8.8 has a beefer tension spring. Can anyone confirm that? :2huh:
The following article mentions a new F150 tension spring under the traction-lok rebuild section. I may just have to look into that spring.

http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
 

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Cool!! Thanks! :thumbsup:

Click, save as.... :D
 
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