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Confirmed V6 Nut
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for both brand and type of replacement bearings for my 3.8L Splitport swap. I've got about 150K on the original T-Bird single port block. I'd doing the entire top end, and have already replaced the water pump. I'm replacing the oil pump as part of the swap.

My question to this august body is what brands and types of rod and main bearings should I consider? Do I go coated bearings? Special metal?

Far as I know, the bearing in the engine are fine but worn. No oiling issues. I just want to take the next step up and not have to look back.
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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Discussion Starter #2
After scouring the internet and local engine builders for opinions, I'm going to order Coated Clevite 77 bearings. The best source I can find is to order them from Summit. Summit will have them drop shipped to my home.

I've got no bottom end issues or noises. Therefore, I'm taking a chance and ordering standard bearings instead of .010".
 

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Therefore, I'm taking a chance and ordering standard bearings instead of .010".
Plastigauge is your friend... I'd measure carefully before deciding it was good.
 

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You cant just decide on what bearings you want for a motor because you think its wear might be so and so. Have the crank ground down, have the big ends on the rods done and get the bearings to match. Get a hone, get the rings and be sober when you put it together.
 

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Once the bearing get there check your clearances yourslef. I'm having to pull my bearing because I went only by what the shop said.
 

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There is also the chance that there are OS bearings in the engine from the factory. I have had a couple engines like this. One or two OE bearings are oversized already to make up the tolerances.

The ONLY way to order bearings in an engine is to disassemble, check and machine(if required), THEN measure and order.

You CAN'T do it any other way.
 

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The bearings are much much softer than the crankshaft material so if there is wear in the engine it will be the bearing 99% and the crankshaft will be so close to standard it will be well within tolerance---provided of course there is really not a problem that already exists----If you pop a rod cap off and take the old bearing out it will have a number on it and "if' its undersized it will also have an .010 etc after that number to state the undersize----I've never seen a case of an undersize bearing coming off an assembly line, but dealerships will repair or replace engines with refurbed ones at times.
I've replaced bearing many times without machine work but like the others have said, plastigage is your friend....also if you do pull a rod apart for anything always replace the bearing, they are made to crush when you first install them and never seem to match that tension after they have gone through several heat cycles----so once an engine has been run and a rod is opened up I replace the bearing regardless of the condition of the bearing I find. The same goes for the main bearings............................Dan
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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Discussion Starter #9
Dan,

I am the 2nd owner of the car. The engine had never been opened up before. I blew the intake gaskets in it and also replaced the water pump. The mechanics said everything was OEM and untouched since the factory.

I'm having a cam checked out and will KNOW which size of cam bearings to put in.

I am not pulling apart the rotating assembly, but will be changing the main bearings solely because the block has 150,000 miles on it. If I touch the rotating assembly, it will be to put in a 4.2 rotating assembly to stroke the engine. That will take more money than I have at the moment and drive poor Lonnie Doll crazy with my changes.
 

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If you can pull all the mains without pulling the rod bearing I'd like to know how (not being an arse), but don't see how you can remove the upper bearings with the crank and rods connected.
 

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If you can pull all the mains without pulling the rod bearing I'd like to know how (not being an arse), but don't see how you can remove the upper bearings with the crank and rods connected.
It's very easy. Remove all but the front and rear bearing caps and then loosen these caps slightly to let the crank drop down. You can then push out the main bearings in the block and push the new ones in. Once the ones in the middle are changed, then do the front and rear. Then torque in sequence to spec.
 

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Thanks that bit of info might be helpful.
 
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