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I have read several posts on how to remove the EGr valve from a1995 4.6 T-bird and the only way I could get it off was by 1, remove the exhaust pipes from the the manifold .2 remove the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold .3 remove the intake manifold and 4 remove the Egr valve,is there a easier way to do this?that was a lot of work.
 

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nope, no easier way to do it. its buried down behind the intake and plenum. getting to the 10mm bolts holding it on is a nightmare without at least cracking the intake loose and moving it around. but you'll most likely have to brake it loose from the exhaust manifold (dropping the exhaust) and lift the whole intake out with the EGR&tube attached to get it off.



then you should seriously think about getting your hands on the whole intake setup from a 96+ and swapping everything out. EGR is on the side of the throttlebody on top of the intake with those. and with a set of fuel lines off a crownvic on backwards, its a direct swap, as long as you have pretty much EVERYTHING attached to the 96 intake from the junk yard.
 

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PI Intake Swap -

That is the MUCH easier solution that I chose! :)
 

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Yep it was the second part down the assembly line right after the heater core.
Sometimes I amuse myself by devising tortures for the guys who designed the 4.6's oil filter location, the 6-7-8 cylinder overheating issue, and the 2-piece driveshaft.

Among other issues, like the heater core, lol.

Someone, at some point, said "This is a great idea!" to each of those. :facepalm:

:D
 

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The heater core sucks to do on nearly all cars. The EGR layout though is legitimately bad, as is the oil filter location, as is the PS pump, as is the starter. In fact the whole external layout of the mod motor is plain bad.
 

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But it works, doesn't it? lol
 

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nope, no easier way to do it. its buried down behind the intake and plenum. getting to the 10mm bolts holding it on is a nightmare without at least cracking the intake loose and moving it around. but you'll most likely have to brake it loose from the exhaust manifold (dropping the exhaust) and lift the whole intake out with the EGR&tube attached to get it off.



then you should seriously think about getting your hands on the whole intake setup from a 96+ and swapping everything out. EGR is on the side of the throttlebody on top of the intake with those. and with a set of fuel lines off a crownvic on backwards, its a direct swap, as long as you have pretty much EVERYTHING attached to the 96 intake from the junk yard.
Not to jack the thread, but what year(s) crown vic can you use the fuel rails from for this?
 

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I'm not exactly sure, i was just told that by NetKeym in my PI swap thread.

page 4, post 103

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=136894&highlight=heater+tube&page=4

i did mine the hard way and butchered my cruise cable to make it work. wouldnt recommend it. especially after my stuck open throttle issue. :D

and yes, you may as well get yourself a FRPP PI intake from amazon and some high temp red RTV if your going to go as far as swapping the whole intake. you will not be disappointed!
 

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The heater core sucks to do on nearly all cars. The EGR layout though is legitimately bad, as is the oil filter location, as is the PS pump, as is the starter. In fact the whole external layout of the mod motor is plain bad.
I have no complaints about the steering pump. Whoa, wait... Nevermind.

(lol)
 

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what do you mean? like completely remove it and plug up the ports?

i hear your fuel economy drops considerably. it would be much better just to change the valve and tube while your already in their ripping out the intake and make it work again then pull it all and deal with a permanent engine light.

just drop the cat pipe assembly, soak the nut for the tube in some PB blaster, pop it out, pull the manifold, clean the TB and EGR passages, pop on a new valve, get a tube if you need one. then put it all back together with new intake gaskets, vacuum lines and the vacuumT. you should be golden for years to come as long as the motor holds up.

but seriously, it is SOOOOOOO much easier to collect the pieces needed for the PI intake swap from a dead 96+ bird/cougar, and go that route then putting that monster aluminum anchor back in their.

you can even buy a NPI ford intake off amazon if you don't want to RTV the coolant passages and it will still be worlds apart from the 95 setup. or reuse the one from the deadbird if its not cracked and in decent shape. then you could just change the hose in the valley for the heaterpipe, and not have to worry about the new pipe nipple or PI tube, near direct swap.
 

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yeah, some people have tried it with poor results. its not something you want to do to your daily driver. i mean fuel economy isn't something to sneeze at nowadays.

now i suppose on a track car or something, yeah loose it for weight savings. as well as the EVAP and who knows what else that really isn't required for balls to the walls straight line power.

plus having to pull the gauge cluster to yank the bulb from the check engine light... someone did that to mine when i got her because the MAF failed and they didn't want to fix it right >.>
 

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Cooler combustion temps too. Really there's far more positives effects to EGR than negatives. Weight savings is nil as well. I don't think there's even 5 lbs to be saved from losing the valve, tube, DPFE, EVR or vac lines. Deletion is only justified if you have no provision for it, or have cams with a lot of overlap(natural EGR). Otherwise it's just a counterintuitive mod for people who don't know any better.

And on a 94/5 it's just as much work to delete it as it is to fix it.
 

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yep... which is why i eliminated the whole damn thing for a better intake design :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The heater core sucks to do on nearly all cars. The EGR layout though is legitimately bad, as is the oil filter location, as is the PS pump, as is the starter. In fact the whole external layout of the mod motor is plain bad.
the 94's and 95's are bears to work on but the later ones are a much better design.I opted for the 95 because I like the looks of that year.
 

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I removed the A/C to do my EGR valve. With the right tools(swivel crowfoot) you COULD probably get to the bolt. Probably a good idea to get a new EGR tube and valve as well. The tube will likely be clogged or close to it, so if you don't fully clean it you will be doing the job again.

The other thing is doing new valve stem seals, that will prevent the issue from happening again. Some say the valve stem guides have issues, I haven't found that to be the case. Once those two repairs are done that engine will probably make it to 500K as a daily driver if maintained. I've seen it because I knew the owner of a shop that serviced them - It is exactly the same powertrain as the livery crown vics/Towncars from 91-95.
Is is a racecar engine? No. Just a very decent daily driver you can have for under $200 and sweat equity. The intake swap is also a very good alternative. We don't have any pick and pulls here for hundreds of miles (and everything older that 5 years get crushed) so I hesitate to do something like that where you have to hunt for parts on another model.
 
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