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The engine I'm working with is out of the car so space isn't an issue right now :)

My manifolds are rusty, how would I remove them from the heads without damaging anything?

Secondly the studs that bolt the cat back system on to the manifolds are stripped and 2 are broken. What are my options here for fixing it so I can attach new exhaust to the flanges/manifolds?
 

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Spray them with PB blaster every few hours for a couple days. If that doesn't work, break out a torch and heat them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ya the manifold to flange studs are pooched. Are there options for fixingthose that doesn't involve new manifolds or headers. ?

I need to be able to put pipes on the engine to run the exhaust through the garage door at the neighbors :D
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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I busted them off last fall when I did the exhaust. I didn't feel like screwing around with trying to thread out what was left, so I just drilled it out.
 

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I cut mine flush with the manifold and took them to a machine shop.
Sometimes it's best to leave it to the pros and their drill presses. I have had lots of good luck drilling, but then again I have had enough bad luck too. :) On non-seized fasteners, a LH drill bit is your friend.
 

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Thread revival, anyone try scps stud replacement kit? I'm curious as to how one would take the plce of the odd stud we have on the drivers side that goes in the opposite direction.
 

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The ones I broke off came out with a punch and hammer, I'm pretty sure.

They had splines at the top, like a wheel stud, iirc.
 

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I have successfully used Walkers flange repair kits on Rangers and Crown Vics. its basically a split flange that goes around the old flange but mounts vertically in relation to the old one. Works great for those 20 year old midwest cars with factory exhaust thats never been apart. by that time the two flanges and studs had basically rustified together and were not reusable.
 

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Black_Cat said:
Thread revival, anyone try scps stud replacement kit?
No..
Black_Cat said:
I'm curious as to how one would take the plce of the odd stud we have on the drivers side that goes in the opposite direction.
The last time the exhaust came down on my car I realized just how bad the studs were on my exhaust manifold collector flanges..So I replaced all 4 of them..

I used an Oxy Acetylene Torch with a heating tip to get the studs cherry red..Then I used a Stud Extractor to remove the old studs from the collector flange..
Stud Extractor.JPG

You have to move quickly while the studs are still cherry red..Otherwise you'll just bend, and break the studs off in the collector flange..Creating more work.. :mad:

After I successfully removed all the studs I ran a 7/16-14 Tap through each hole..Then I used a piece of 7/16-14 threaded rod to replace the studs with..

By simply marring one end of the threaded rod that will prevent it from backing out once you start tightening the nut on the other end..

If possible use copper nuts here as they don't seize up or rust like steel does..





Rayo..
 

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I do have a question though what are the manifold bolt size the ones holding them on the head? I still have to replace my egr tube.

I don't want to brake them off in the head when I try to take the tube off.

I got the cat y off of them using a wire brush and pb blaster.

what I did was hit it with pb blaster scrub like heck and hit it again with pb blaster I did that like four or five times to work off the rust off of the threads and the nuts.
 

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Exhaust Manifold Bolts

95mercxr7 said:
What are the manifold bolt size the ones holding them on the head?.
M8x1.25x43..They are roughly 1.69" long..So if you find some M8x1.25x45 bolts you should be good..

I don't know how deep your heads are tapped for the exhaust manifold bolts..So just to play it safe use washers if you can't find the right length..

The last thing you want is to bottom out the bolts in the head, and break one off.. :rolleyes:

95mercxr7 said:
I got the cat y off of them using a wire brush and pb blaster.

what I did was hit it with pb blaster scrub like heck and hit it again with pb blaster I did that like four or five times to work off the rust off of the threads and the nuts.
That doesn't usually work on Northern cars that have seen salty roads..Consider yourself fortunate, and maybe the rest of the car will come apart as easy..






Rayo..
 

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A real good one is CRC Freeze off, can get it at Autozone. You spray it for 10 seconds, and the temp drops to like 10 below, which is supposed to flake the rust off.

Works pretty well. There is a video online.

Al
 
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