TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I'd make this guide after gettin a wiper switch from my local junkyard that didnt quite work today, I decided to open it up and i found the signal light contacts were corroded.I'll show you how to fix this along with another problem, a broken wire.

Here are some removal & installation instructions provided to me by IronChopz:

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Tilt column to lowest position and remove tilt steering column lock lever.
3. Remove ignition switch lock cylinder.
4. Remove shroud screws and remove upper steering column shroud (3530) and lower steering column shroud.
5. Remove two self-tapping screws retaining turn signal and windshield wiper switch to steering column casting. Disengage turn signal and windshield wiper switch from casting.
6. Disconnect the two electrical connectors.


Installation

1. Install two electrical connectors to full engagement.
2. Align turn signal and wiper switch mounting holes with corresponding holes in steering column casting. Install two self-tapping screws, making sure to start screws in the previously tapped holes. Tighten to 2-3 N-m (18-26 lb-in).
3. Install upper steering column shroud and lower steering column shroud.
4. Install ignition switch lock cylinder.
5. Install tilt steering column lock lever.
6. Connect battery ground cable.
7. Check steering column and turn signal and windshield wiper switch for proper operation.

Now that you've got your switch out of the car and ready to repair be sure you have a Torx 10 screwdriver.Remove these 5 screws:

When you open the switch do it inside a box because I guarantee **** will go flying, but its not as hard to put back together as it looks :)

Now the inside of the switch looks like this:

As you can see the contacts are pretty corroded but most of the corrosion has mixed with the grease so its easy to remove.

Also dont forget this piece:


Located here:


I recommend high grit sandpaper, a nail file, or a drill/dremel with a wire brush.
Here's the finished product, done with sandpaper, I really recommend a dremel with a brush for the spring loaded contacts.


That covers the first part, now onto the second problem with these switches:

Broken Wires

This is why my wipers wouldnt work and why i spent $20 on another switch.

As you can see the yellow wire has been repaired, it was broken and it broke of from flexing so much.

To remove a wire from the connector use a knife or something fine to push the clip in and something else to push it out of the connector:


Proceed to strip some of the insulation from the broken wire, and use this part of the connector to re-attach the wire:


Now insert the wire back into the connector, it just pushes in.Now you have a clean corrosion free switch with all wires connected that should work when re-installed, but how do you reassemble the switch? Keep Reading :D

Assembly:

This is possibly the hardest part of repairing the switch, getting it back together.

First start by inserting this plastic piece into place, the contacts are spring loaded so i suggest placing a piece of sandpaper with grit facing the contacts inside the housing to make inserting this piece easy.Plus the sandpaper serves two purposes #1 making installing the clip easier and #2 sanding the contacts inside when you pull it out :)



Now pull the paper from behind the piece:


These are the springs that most likely flew out when you took the switch apart:


Continue assembly by puting the bat shaped (duh nananana nananana batman!) piece into the switch:


Now insert the switch into the housing making sure u line up the holes on the bottom of the switch and bat piece with the holes in the housing and make sure the spring is in its notch:


Now place the other plastic piece in between the top and middle of the switch making sure to get it on the peg in the switch and the little track on the left side underneath it:


Now plug the wiper connector into the other half of the housing:




Now get ready to put this beast back together, these pieces have to go in the corresponding notches.The tab on the switch has to go into the notch on the plastic piece and the little peg has to go into the track:


Now both wipers and signal lights should function again :D Also if you don't want to try this I could do it for you, Just shoot me a pm :)
 

·
3rd Gear Chirper
Joined
·
2,399 Posts
Nice write up, nice pics and great detail! :thumbsup:

Damn, those wimpy contacts are what handles the current in the headlight circuits? <i>Away</i> with my browser, it's off to wiringproducts.com to order some relays!

Stupid design :mad:...my 87 Fox body Tbird has headlight relays from the factory, wonder why the cheaped out on the MN12...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I figured I'd try and give something back to the site.The contacts are decently thick but relays would have been a better way to go, and for some reason i think the grease is causing the corrosion in these switches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
That is a real nice write up and illustrations I will be donig that along with the power antenna in the spring. I found turn signals on ebay new from $35.00 to $57.00 I will get one of those. How difficult is it to disassemble are there any surprises?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The biggest surprise is the springs that can possibly jump out and i guarantee without that pic or another switch to look at (which i had to use) you would be lost if it happened.I figured it was goin in the garbage when it happened to me but i took a chance and took my second switch apart and it never happened so i got a good look at where everything goes. Now i could do one with my eyes closed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
you are a tbird god thank you. i was literally about to purchase a new one. i like rebuilding stuff much much more! thanks!
 

·
Raoul Duke
Joined
·
1,747 Posts
Nice write-up, sir. Nice pictures, too.
When I took mine apart to clean the contacts, I used dielectric grease be reassembly. That was when the car had only 48k miles with its original MFS, and it still works perfectly at 84k miles.
I don't know if I would blame dielectric grease as a cause of corrosion, as I put fresh stuff on and the switch is still going strong. I signal a lot, too. :)
Maybe the factory grease wasn't sufficient?

Stupid design :mad:...my 87 Fox body Tbird has headlight relays from the factory, wonder why the cheaped out on the MN12...
Not from my experiences. I've owned three Fox bodies and none of them had factory relays for the lights. In fact, even my turbo Cougar with the factory fog lights didn't use a relay - they wired the fogs to run through the headlight switch.
One of the first things I did when I bought the car was to install a relay for the lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yeah im thinking the factory grease was just ****.

ry2lazy4u im far from a god, i'm just cheap and try and make everything last as long as possible :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
My switch works except for the speeds of the wipers and the washer pump when you press it nothing happens, would this fix that issue as well??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
664 Posts
My switch works except for the speeds of the wipers and the washer pump when you press it nothing happens, would this fix that issue as well??
That was my issue. I fixed it no biggie.

A great write up. Kicking myself for not taking my first MFS apart a few years ago vs. buying a new one. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
0 Posts
The images are not loading. I'm having trouble figuring out where the one spring goes. If someone could or would help me out?! It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top