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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm in mid process of replacing both right and left LCA's, but started with right because it was the worst, was causing hard pull to right on braking, kinda scary on the freeway, and steering not re-correcting. But I'm doing both sides of course, left side in 2 days, both bought from SCP.
BTW, has brand new UCA's, & sway bar end links.
Replaced right side LCA, Huge inprovement,
Now braking hard is fine,actually pulls a tiny bit to left (That's why I'm replacing both).
TO MY POINT,
After installing Right LCA, alignment is not bad, drives prety straight, but steering wheel TDC is now cocked to right at about 1:00. I assume this is because I just eye-balled proper position of the new LCA inner mount based on the marks from the old LCA. Aside from the fact I still need to install the left side properly, I assume a proper alignment will correct this steering wheel problem?
Another new issue is making a full wheel turn to the left, cranked all the way, I can hear a loud scraping sound in the same front right area, wheel or rotor rubbing on something?



 

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A proper alignment will straighten the steering wheel out.

Double check everything on the right side. Is the noise while the car is moving or stationary?

You guys and the clean California cars! :D

Joe
 

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A proper alignment will straighten the steering wheel out.

Double check everything on the right side. Is the noise while the car is moving or stationary?

You guys and the clean California cars! :D

Joe
In my particular area, local Ford dealership offers 4-wheel alignments for only $69.95 while same work at other local shops is $100 or more!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Noise

A proper alignment will straighten the steering wheel out.

Double check everything on the right side. Is the noise while the car is moving or stationary?

You guys and the clean California cars! :D

Joe
Yeah Joe, the noise is when moving, usually when making a fully cocked U-Turn, where more weight is shifted to the right side.
Gonna take a look at it tomorrow, any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
OK, the noise I heard when making a fully cocked left turn was from the passenger side LCA ball joint not being fully inserted. It has one of those nuts with the upper threads lined with the plastic anti-reverse lock(see above pic). Unfortunately I was unable to properly FULLY thread and seat this nut at the time, only about halfway down the threads, because as it got tighter, the spindle(bolt) would just turn inside the LCA along with my trying to tighten, hence NOT correctly seated.
So, since it wasn't fully seated, making those full U-Turns affected the angle of the wheel, and hence the grinding and sight clunk.
I have since corrected the problem, and it's fine.
The funny thing is my new drivers side LCA came with the classic notched nut with cotter pin, which worked GREAT!
Why fix what ain't broken?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Alan,
With both LCA's replaced, and car aligned, there's no problem with pulling on braking anymore. However, wish the guy who aligned it made the steering wheel dead center while driving straight. It's only off center a little, maybe I'm being a little anal, but I like to see my nice FR500 Wheel perfectly straight if I'm driving straight.:rolleyes:
No biggie, thanks all for the advice!
 

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Youve not been picky enough. A good alignment guy wouldve made sure the wheel is straight.
 

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You can re-align the steering wheel yourself. If the wheel is too far to the left (e.g. wheel turned left but your car goes straight), you need to adjust the tie rods so the left side is longer and the right side is shorter. If the wheel is too far right, the opposite stands true. Do so by making sure you turn the stop nut/threads the same number of turns so you lengthen one side's tie rod length by the same amount you shorten the other side. From what I recall when I did this some months ago, 3/4 - 1 whole turn of the nut/screw is worth about 1 o'clock in steering wheel rotation.

I used a vise grip on the innermost threads of the inner tie rod (where the nut would never go in case I damaged the threads) to hold it steady while I loosened the stop nut on both sides. Then back off the stop nut however far you need to (just count how many flat surfaces on the nut pass the same position, that'll keep you accurate to 1/6 turn) for the side that needs to be shortened, then tighten the threads by rotating the vise grips until the stop nut comes in contact with the outer tie rod. Be sure to re-tighten the stop nut. To lengthen other side, hold the inner threads with a vise grips, crack the stop nut loose slightly, then spin the vise grips to unthread the inner tie rod threads the same fraction of a turn you turned the stop nut on the other side (you can count the flat surfaces on the stop nut on this side as it rotates). Then run the stop nut back up to the outer tie rod and tighten while keeping the inner tie rod from spinning.
 

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I watch who I allow to align these cars, most of these guys think all they have to do is adjust the toe and be done with it. I want my car sat down on 4 slide plates and everything in the green.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Brandon, that's kinda what I figured had to be done to get my steering wheel at TDC, just wasn't sure on the specifics. Never tried any alignment adjustments before, but your info is GREAT, better than any Ford service manual.
Yeah, wasn't sure about the guy I took it to for the alignment, my usual shop was too busy to take me in so I tried another local guy, in one of those automotive business lots, who had NO customers when I pulled in.:confused:
My usual shop has state of the art alignment rack with the wheel mounted mirrors and lasers, this guy just had the standard 10 year old rack, but thats ok?
I saw his setup and asked him how old it was. (Probably a mistake). He gave me a look, I mentioned the new style rack with lasers, and he said " I don't need lasers, I have tools."
OOPS! hope I didn't piss him off, he did a good alignment for the most part, but probably didn't do the best after what I said?:(
 

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My point is your paying for an alignment, make him finish the damn job. You shouldnt have to touch the car
 
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