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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be replacing the lower door hinge on the passenger side of the car... i have a 94 even though I don't think it matters. My dad works at a ford dealership so i'm getting 10% off the hinge... WOO HOO lol i'm all about saving money baby. My question is, is there anything besides the hinge that i'm going to need? I mean a small rubber piece.... a bearing or ANYTHING lol since I'm having a friend of mine's father do the door for me I don't want to bring him parts and be missing something. Thanks guys
 

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There are many topics that cover this if you just search this. You don't even need a hing if you have a welder. If you are doing it yourself, Make a jig with the hole. Weld the hole shut, drill it, then put a pin through there. You need a pin and bushing that can be found for $5 bucks each at autozone that is labled "help."
 

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Discussion Starter #3
to tell you the truth, i've had my door like this for so long that i really don't care about spendin 70 bucks to fix it... i really dont. As long as i get it completely done and fixed perfectly i do not care dude... and i'm not doing it myself and i don't have a welder...
 

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can i ask a question?

why are you replacing the hinge, is the door sagging? If it is just get the help bushing kit, it takes like 10 minutes to do the new pin with the bushings and like another 10 to realign the door... let me know if you wanna head that route, i have the part numbers...

Jordan
 

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Are they the same numbers as the technical article? Those are Ford parts, and kinda pricey.
 

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Here is what I learned from when I changed my hinge pin bushings.
You can check Advance Auto, and see if they carry the HELP brand of parts. If they do, they should have replacement striker plates, pins, and bushings. If not, Dan Newman at 5-STar Ford has all the info. on that.

Pins: D9ZZ-6643030-AA
Bushings: D9OZ-6522841-C
Striker plate: F3SZ-6322008-A

1. If you have never replaced the bushings since the car was new, you may
consider replacing the hinge too. Mine was so worn, that the bushing was
completely worn through, and the pin had elongated the hole in the hinge
plate. I used a 15/32 dia. drill bit, and opened up the hole, but the bushing
fits in there just a hair loose.
2. In spite of this amount of wear, the upper hinge bushings had no play in
them, so I am going to leave them alone.
3. When cutting the hinge pin, cut it closer to the bottom bushing, than the
top. You can then take a center punch, or drift pin, and knock out the lower
piece of the pin, from above. Then come up through the bottom of the lower
hole, and knock out the top piece of the pin. The original pin has some
knurling on it, and does not come out easily.
4. On my car, it was not necessary to make scribe marks, as it was obvious
where the hinge plate was. The plate wears into the paint enough to make its'
own marks.
5. For removing the door, I built a wooden cradle to support the bottom of
the door in two places. I made it the same height as the bottom of the door,
and put a couple of notches in it to keep the door from falling off. Use a
trolley jack to lift the car up slightly, so that you can slide the cradle
under the door. Put shop rags between the door and cradle, to protect the
paint. You can then slide the door away from the car, and tilt it forward, so
it leans against the back edge of the fender. I then propped the door in
place with a broom handle.
6. When installing the lower hinge pin, do not push it all the way down.
Leave it about 1/2" high. so that you can get the lower hinge bolt back in,
and tightened. Then you can tap it the rest of the way down.
Tools required:
13mm combination box wrench, Sawz-all with metal cutting blade, T50 torx head
bit (for striker plate), trolley jack.
It took me about 1 hour to do the total job, including making the support
cradle.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
well i've already got the entire hinge assembly... i got the whole thing for 63$ so oh well... I'm having a friend of mine put the hinge in this afternoon... thanks for your input though guys.
 

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Where did you get it for $63?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
from a ford dealership that my dad works at... the hinge alone is 69.99 but ford employee's get 10% off so i got it for 63... the hinge is only 70 if you go in there on your own...
 

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That for both upper and lower?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no that's just lower... you shouldn't need the upper one, it's just the rubber bushing that gets obliterated on the bottom... the top hinge i believe is 49.99... i could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure. Take a good look at the bottom hinge and it should be the only one with play in it...
 

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Door Hinges

When I was doing new upper and lower hinges on my 95 I got as far at the bolt that was inside the car and behind the dash. Ford was not thinking replacment here! I got so mad I had a shop do it. I saw the guy who did it and he spent alot of time with a mirrow and a socket trying to get to the bold behind the dash. Anyway my door is so nice now it goes up alittle when I open it instead of dropping down. I noteced on my 97 explorer that Ford moved this bolt on the upper hinges to face outward so you wouldnt neeed to do the whole dash dissassemble route. Just sharing my experence with you all! :)
 

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Thanks for the info Rollingthunder.

I am about to replace the pins and have checked the HELP parts and none match up for the Tbird.

Does anyone know what the HELP part numbers are for the pin and bushing kit? I picked up part number 38395 which is the pin & bushing and a 38350 which is the roller kit. The parts guy could not find the part number recommended for a bird.

The 38395 works with the mustang, tempo, topaz, etc.

Is this the right part or is there another?
 

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This is a copy of a post, that I saved on that subject.

Not sure who's post it was, sorry.


I have, sitting in front of me, the pin and bushing kits recommended by another tccoa'r who said these did the trick quite well. They are HELP P.N. 38410. each has one hinge pin and two bushings. I understand that the hinge does not go bad, but the bushing elongates leaving room for the door to sag so much. Thats what we get for letting our doors swing out and bounce back. Someone else used these with great success and they were about 4.50 each. the door striker plate should be replaced once the hinge pins are dealt with. plastic sleeve comes with it. could nnot find just sleeves. I'll be doing mine within the week. if you need the p.n. for striker plate, let me know, its down in the garage.
 

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Thanks. No worries on the striker pin. I'm on my third. I just replaced the latest 2 days ago.

I'll check with the parts guys on that part number. I think that I read somewhere that it is the same pin/bushing kit as the F150. Which tccoa'r recommended them?

I'm doing mine tomorrow and will report back which part number works.

Actually, I just checked with the parts guy and yes, the 38410 is is for the F150. I've ordered 2 sets.
 

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That post I did above was a copy of someone else's. Do not know who the author was, so I cannot vouch for its' accuracy.

Maybe Jordan will post what his part numbers were, since he said that he had them.

Let us know how you make out.
 

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Rolling Thunder, that HELP P.N. 38410 you quoted from a fellow TCCOA'r, does that look to you like the same part will fix the upper and lower hinge?
 

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While I am not 100% certain, I seem to recall that the pin and bushings are the same on both top and bottom hinges. I purchased mine from 5-Star Ford, and only replaced the bottom pins & bushings, plus the striker plates.

I am 95% sure that they will work in both.


As far as the roller, I did not replace mine, but didn't really check it either, to see what shape it was in.
 
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