TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm replacing my intake manifold gasket on a stock 4.6. Not looking to do the PI intake swap, but just wondering whether I only need to remove the 4 egr valve 10mm bolts only or is there more to remove on that part if I'm only replacing the intake manifold gasket? Also, is removing the wiper cowl necessary (or easier) for this?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
When I did mine I simply disconnected the EGR from the throttle body. After you remove the TB (and everything else) you can sort of slip the intake out from underneath the EGR.

I didn't take off the cowls.

Getting the heater hoses off was the hardest part. They were stuck on there.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
575 Posts
I also just remove the 2 bolts connecting it to the throttle body and lift off the whole intake as one big piece , I even leave the spark plug wires in to help keep coolant off the plugs .
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,313 Posts
What year? 94/95 or 96/97? The two are quite different...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,867 Posts
I have a feeling he has a 94-95.

I removed the large nut from the EGR, then removed the manifold/EGR as a unit. IIRC, it is 15/16, had to buy a special crows foot socket. You will want to clean or replace the EGR and all those passages while you have it off.

And yes, you will have to remove the cowl.

Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah its a 95.

So it seems there's a couple options. Think I'll try today removing the 2 bolts to keep the TB/manifold one piece. From some searching I read the crowsfoot method is the hardest. Hoping I don't have to go that route.

The heater hoses were actually easy for me... a nice twist with some channel locks broke it free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,867 Posts
Yes, if you can remove just the two bolts, that is a good way. I was replacing the EGR.

No getting around removing that cowl though. It's a pain. but makes EGR access so much easier.

I would remove the TB and TB plenum. You need to clean out the EGR passages, if you have not. The 94-95's are real bad about clogging those up from burning oil. A lot easier to clean those out on a work bench than over a fender next year when the light comes on.

Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
but to answer your question, yes, you can change manifold gaskets without unbolting your egr valve, that's how i did mine, i know that egr valve is a p.i.t.a to get at...............hope ya got this info before ya got started, maybe save ya some trouble........
Ha glad I stopped tonight right before the EGR valve. Was it enough room to clean the gasket residue on both sides (even the intake manifold side)? If I don't have to take it off that will save me a headache.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ended up removing the EGR valve by getting to those two 10mm (forgot I ordered a gasket for it too). Was able to use a socket with the right extension on one and a combo wrench on the further one. For those in the future who do this job, the cowl being off helped tremendously as well as popping off the vacuum hose that runs right behind it. Took forever to get those bolts out. Literally barely enough clearance. I cant imagine getting it off without the throttle body removed.

And the heater hose I said earlier that was easy to get off, I meant the intake side. The firewall side I didn't have the clearance with the tools I have, so I ended up not taking it off. It would have definitely made it easier to get to the two 10mm bolts.

Thank you all for your help. Hope this helps out those in the future with the same question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
This is probably a dumb question, but I don't need to put any gasket sealer or dressing on the new gasket right? It's the fel pro ms94801 basic oem replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
No, but some hi-tack or something very lightly coated on the gasket won't hurt in holding it in place while installing and will help it seal - not that it wouldn't without it. The most important thing is to properly torque down the manifold to prevent leaks.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top