...can it be done without dropping the entire rear subframe? I've looked around and I haven't uncovered any procedures that show someone doing it that way.
OK, I have an air chisel. Do you care to share the process you used to do it without dropping the whole thing?I didn't drop mine on the '93 Mark VIII. I did have to use an air chisel though. LOL :grin2:
OK, that makes sense. I'm putting in Jay's UHMW bushings so the new part is a bit different than what I'm removing.It was a hard fought battle but yes, I holesawed a hole in the fender well to access the captive nut. I was able to finally get the bolt/nut to turn but the bolt was seized in the bushing sleeve and would not pull out. That's when the air chisel came out. I basically disintegrated the bushing with the air chisel. I had to sharpen the blade a couple times. Once the new bushing and hardware was back in place, I welded the nut to the body and used a electrical hole plug, body putty and sealer to patch the hole. Oh, I remember using soap and a jack to install the new bushing.
So, it wasn't easy but you can do it without dropping the subframe. I don't think you will be able to use the tool? I don't recall if the subframe pulled away from the body enough to get the remover adapter in there (judging by the pic, I didn't have one).
The head on the passenger side is stripped. Honestly, the captured nut is more important than the bolt since I have bolts coming already.My Dremel is usually my best friend in these type of situations..
If you have rounded off the head of the bolt..Using a cut-off wheel on the Dremel, work your way around the head of the bolt..
Basically, squaring up the head of the bolt making it fit the next size smaller socket..Nice tight fit..
You didn't mention if the nut was stripped, or not??
Anyways, Now that you have a little window in there..
You could get a pair of needle nose vice grips on the nut while you remove the bolt..
If you can't get a grip on the nut, just cut the nut off using a cut-off wheel on the Dremel..Then just get another nut/bolt..
That's what I would do..
Last thing first; I'm definitely removing the subframe. I've removed the gas tank so that I can work on this without big problems.Don't know if this would help anyone. The passenger side forward bolt on mine was all rounded. I soaked captive nut in kroil for a week thru the gaps, the took the grinder and cut the head off. Then removed what was left of the bushing, dropped the sub frame and used a pipe wrench to remove the rest of the bolt.
I see your not removing your sub frame, how about welding a nut to the striped head so you can get a socket on that?
These were the suggestions I had.L...
My next plan is the pipe wrench and then to weld a bigger nut on the bolt head so I can get a better bite.
I actually found the welded nut and pipe wrench suggestion on a Google search that turned up one from Eastwood.These were the suggestions I had.
You may have to split the captive nut, or cut it with a dremel.
I'm hoping I can use my press to get the bushings out...
I think you may be missing the point of this thread. My bolts are seized. I've used a 550 ft. lb. impact on them with no luck. I've used a 24" breaker bar with a cheater pipe with no luck. I've heated them with no luck.Wow, you guys are way too eager to cut holes in the chassis...lmao. I just replaced my subframe and installed Jay's UHMW bushings a few months ago, it's easier just to unbolt the bolts...and then reinstall them, the process was scary, but not difficult; you just use alignment dowels to realign the frame when done, and the rest is fixed by a wheel alignment. I used a breaker bar to remove my bolts, which are a 15mm; some of them felt like they were going to break as I removed them, but none did, they would just pop as they continued breaking loose from old age. I have found that spraying WD-40 in through the tiny hole where the brake line bracket is onto the captive nut helps. If the bolts break upon removal it's not a big deal, just move to the next ones and get the frame off the car, from there you can just twist the remaining bolt pieces out as the torque has been released from them.
I call dibs, if you do so....I'll have the required tool available after I'm finished. It may even be for sale. 0