Flat head screwdriver / putty knife, etc. Pry the black cap off.
Ok so that is a cap. I was starting to think it wasn’t and I needed more tools outside the breaker bar I forgot to grab earlier haha. Thanks for the fast reply!Flat head screwdriver / putty knife, etc. Pry the black cap off.
It says do not adjust, which is due to the bearing design being fully self contained, which was still a pretty new concept in the early 90s. Old cars you have to adjust preload on the bearing/spindle, which can be adjusted later from wear, ours the bearing is torqued to 250ft/lbs and that’s that. The dust cap is just a dust cap, itself sort of an artifact from those older designs as there’s really no path for debris to get into the bearing(though it does keep the nut and spindle from moisture and rusting)Had to switch and change things to pass smog here in Vegas, but as I was down there I was looking and around the cap it says to not remove it. Is that just them covering their butts or really don’t remove? Also, thanks for the recommendation on the axle nuts, was just going to go with Dorman ones I had already gotten from autozone. Thanks for the reply’s guys, y’all are great.
They’re actually ball bearings, not tapered rollersSince the bearing is a tapered roller, rotate the wheel while doing the initial tightening, it will loosen up as you rotate it, as the two halves of the inner race go together. Make sure there is grease inside; you can very slightly separate the two inner races to see. I'm running about 25% on greased ones, lol.
Set 49 are the rears, the fronts are 100%ball bearings, I’ve taken them apart to grease them.It's in this catalog: https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Timken-Tapered-Roller-Bearing-Catalog.pdf
I have the pdf file here somewhere.
Its factory original, that wasn’t the only one I pulled apart, the ones on my car are timken and it’s the same thing.That's one of the knockoffs; is there a partnumber etched in the side of the race?