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Also, get the rear axle nut from ford, don't use the dorman one; it damages the threads.
There's a post here somewhere that shows the OEM kit to replace those bearings; it looks a lot like a three-jaw puller/c-clamp.
 

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Since the bearing is a tapered roller, rotate the wheel while doing the initial tightening, it will loosen up as you rotate it, as the two halves of the inner race go together. Make sure there is grease inside; you can very slightly separate the two inner races to see. I'm running about 25% on greased ones, lol.
 

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You bought the wrong bearings, lol. look up set 49 from timken on their website. :)

The wheels have a serious lateral component to their motion, and will wear out fast if not opposed sets of rollers. Even the fronts were set 49; I've just never successfully pressed one out.
 

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That's one of the knockoffs; is there a partnumber etched in the side of the race?
 

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I have a front one here I destroyed trying to replace, like the helm manual says. I'll find some pix. The two I've destroyed with the press were both rollers
 

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LOL. Ford saves money in some amazing places. I've never personally seen a dual-row ball bearing used as a wheel bearing; That explains why I kill them so quickly sometimes. Even the cheapo's I bought while testing the press are rollers for the rear; I don't have any front ones to look at. They seem to last well on the road cars, but Lazarus eats them like candy, when I do Curvy's a lot. It has sticky tires, and some of my fun roads make the Dragon look tame. :) I'll find a good bearing next time I go to Dixie Bearing. A Wheel bearing has to support a lateral force, which, considering how well ours corner, is substantial. A dual row is using the distance between the rows for that resistance. Which wears them. Not industry practice, and not done on older cars.
 

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I will definitely agree with that. :)One of the manuals for these that I got from my Dad's stuff, has directions on replacing the front hub bearings with set 49 bearings. If you follow them, it rips the hub to shreads, and it's not reusable. It must have been an early change; maybe when they did the spindle change? It also shows using a puller to remove the hub, but mine fall off with the nut off.
I believe pix, lol. Ball bearings in that application wobble, and that causes issues. Like I said, I've wasted multiple front hubs, and I'm sure it's my driving. :)
I learn something new here every day. :) Usually from you, Matt. :)
 
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