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Discussion Starter #1
On the car?

On the passenger front, not only did I buy the car with one stud twisted off, but the guys who mounted the tires last time crossthreaded two studs - that leaves me with two good studs to mount a front tire with.

Eeewwww!!!!!

Has anyone driven out a bad stud and replaced it with the hub on the car? Front passenger specifically?

I thought I'd try it, if possible, before I take the hub off and do the vice and sledgehammer thing to drive the old ones out (add in the drift punch for the one twisted off).

RwP
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Yech. For the amount of work involved I'd say just replace the whole hub/bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The problem is that my wife's car has ABS - the two TBirds at my nephew's yard don't.

Hmm ... Guess I could walk through the U-Pull-It and see if THEY have any compatible ABS units ...

RwP
 

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You can pound out studs and replace them in a minute, if they clear the spindle going in that is. All that is needed is a hammer, some big washers, an impact and a little grease.

Replacing an entire hub because of a few messed up studs would be ridiculous.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess I need to see if the rear shield comes off while the hub's still on the car, then.

Turns out nobody in town lists them in stock new/reman, so it's U-Pull-It with no telling what shape bearings, or fix this one (which rolls nicely now ... )

Sigh.

More on my "Gotta get and replace" list since it doesn't seem that the bearings are replaceable independent of the hub.

RwP
 

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If you can't replace the studs yourself, bring it to a shop. It would be cheaper. Studs are a couple dollars a piece and labor shouldn't be more than 30 dollars (which is still too much for the amount of work required). Replacing a hub for studs alone is severly overcomplicating your problem and is a tremendous waste of time.
 

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I guess I need to see if the rear shield comes off while the hub's still on the car, then. Nope, it's riveted on.

Turns out nobody in town lists them in stock new/reman, so it's U-Pull-It with no telling what shape bearings, or fix this one (which rolls nicely now ... )

Sigh.

More on my "Gotta get and replace" list since it doesn't seem that the bearings are replaceable independent of the hub.

RwP
I've got a couple of good used hubs (upgraded to Cobra hubs), if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you can't replace the studs yourself, bring it to a shop. It would be cheaper. Studs are a couple dollars a piece and labor shouldn't be more than 30 dollars (which is still too much for the amount of work required). Replacing a hub for studs alone is severly overcomplicating your problem and is a tremendous waste of time.
One thing to keep in mind is that this is a 1991 that has 80K miles on it, and that didn't see the best maintenance from the previous owner. And is a daily driver.

Sometimes it's better to replace stuff just to avoid problems.

Like, say, putting new pinch bolts in the knuckle where it clamps on the upper ball joint instead of reusing the old ones.

The main problem is that the dust shield is behind it. That, and I might have to jiggle the old stud some to clear the hub flange itself. And if I have to take it off, might as well replace at this time - safer than going back in six months from now, eh?

(That's also the logic behind me gathering up the strut rod bushings and LCAs to replace when I do the front shocks - and gathering up all the pieces for the back when I do the BACK shocks.)

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've got a couple of good used hubs (upgraded to Cobra hubs), if you're interested.
So - I have to pull the hub anyway.

Dang it, don't have a torque wrench on hand that does 200+ footpounds - gonna have to borrow one from AutoZone to put it back together ANYWAY.

But the good news is, I can crank up my angle grinder ...

Shame I don't have the front calipers in - if I'm taking it that far apart, I could paint the fronts and put them on.

In other news - how much would you want for them, shipped to 71111? And these are the ABS hubs, right?

RwP
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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All I did with the torque wrench issue is take my 150 ft/lb wrench and crank it to the max (it's one of the old style), then I got out my biggest 1/2" ratchet and cranked it down a few degrees more until I felt it was in spec (186-264 IIRC). That was 9 months ago, still on there nice and solid.
 

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Cool, just wanted to you to be aware that replacing studs is a nothing job. If you're refreshing the front end, go for it. 80k miles is not that much and maintenance really cannot be done to the front wheel bearings anyway, regarding the prior owners care of the car. It seems like you got this under control, good luck!
 
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