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Discussion Starter #1
I know it's hard to trouble shoot over the net but here is the situation
Last year I had a K&N panel, U/D pulleys, a Hypertech, mufflers replaced with tips with resonators inside them, and a COMPLETELY clogged fuel filter. Ran consistent 15.0x's and 90MPH's(best of 15.01 and 91.05MPH). I was running on worn Kumho's and getting 2.2 60fts.
So a little before I dyno'd the car last year, I had added true duals (with flowmaster and 2 stock cats, no x/h pipe), replaced that fuel filter, and Jmod (I know won't help HP). I got 196/8HP and 249 torque. I was running rich, and this spring/summer I should have fixed that . The guy thought I should have gained a few HP (putting me to about 200) by fixing the rich problem. I now have had the tranny rebuilt with heavy duty parts, and a heavy duty shiftkit added, as well as a Mark VIII T/C, a 180 degree T-Stat, and 12C plugs (to fix rich problem). I also bought a new set of Nitto 555's 255/45/18 (the Kumho's were 255/35/18).
Now last Sunday I got a best of 15.3x at 88.xxMPH w/ a 2.4x 60ft. So I went to the track today, and ran a 15.3, 15.13, 15.15, a a 15.4x. Highest trap speed was 89.2x.
My 60 foots were 2.2's and 2.3's.

So with what I had dyno'd, and the stuff I added, I would have thought I would be mid/high 14's and trapping a higher MPH. However, my MPH is down from last year, as well as my time.
I have cleaned the MAF and changed the PCV valve. It also is idling rough, and sometimes idles low.
:2huh:
 

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Take it to a shop have em see if the computer trowing any codes. It just might be the o2 Sensers. Have you noticed very low MPG?
 

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After you had the trans rebuilt, you had it Jmod'd AND put a shift kit in there? I didn't think that was possible/advisable. Or did you just do the shift kit?

I'm just wondering, as the common consensus is that the JMod is by far the best shift improvement method for that trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wanna Be - Yeah, I am getting about 200 miles per tank, when I used to get about 300. Of course now I stay out of O/D most the time, so that doesn't help.
My check engine light had gone off a few weeks ago, but it had turned off. I will get it read.

Trinten - No, when I had the tranny rebuilt the Jmod stuff was taking out, and replaced with beefier parts, and a HD Transgo shift kit. For me, the Transgo has been better so far.
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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I'm thinking vacuum leak since at WOT, you don't use the o2s. TPS might need an adjustment, or maybe the track just sucked.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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GreenBird said:
I'm thinking vacuum leak since at WOT, you don't use the o2s. TPS might need an adjustment, or maybe the track just sucked.
Like I said before...the track timers were not at an accurate distance to get the numbers that he had before,and they simply fixed the error in timer placement.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Johnny Langton said:

Like I said before...the track timers were not at an accurate distance to get the numbers that he had before,and they simply fixed the error in timer placement.
JL
Ummm, no. Why in the hell would you think/say that kind of bs? If you would like to give me some real advice, then please do so. Other wise....

I went to the track again today. I changed the fuel filter again (not too bad this time), and put the tires to 35PSI. First run was right when I got there (I reset the computer right before the run). 14.997 at 89.63MPH and a 2.167 60ft. Then six miunutes later 14.94 at 89.81 MPH w/ a 2.15 60ft. Also got 2 14.985's at MPH (same for both), and a 14.97 at 90.00 MPH.
It still idles rough, and the trap speeds seem low (lower than last year).
Hopefully next week I will have some tires for 15" rims and see how it does with those. My 18's with those tires weigh about 70, and the ones off my 95' weighed only 38lbs.

Greenbird - for a vacuum leak, would I just need a pressure gauge, or just take it in and have a shop use some "special" tool. In my Chilton's it said that the computer will just compensate for any adjustmens to the TPS, is this wrong then?
 

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Cougar Pilot
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Aaron_T said:

Greenbird - for a vacuum leak, would I just need a pressure gauge, or just take it in and have a shop use some "special" tool. In my Chilton's it said that the computer will just compensate for any adjustmens to the TPS, is this wrong then?
In my HAYNES :leftright manual it says to use a piece of hose (forget which size 5/16"-11/32") and put one end in/on/near your ear and use the other end as a stethoscope and you probe around all your vaccum hoses listening for it. Now if you had a real stethoscope that might be even better.
 
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