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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know for sure that I'm running lean when I get on the go pedal. I can smell it badly now. I've had 2 Mustang owners and 1 Lightening owner tell me it too. So what do I need to do to fix it? New fuel pump and regulator? My injectors are good. All my sensors are new. The O2's are working also. I used a break out box and tested everything real well. Help me please!!!
 

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Bigger fuel pump, and a regulator. EEC iV is stupid, turn up the go juice.
 

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Wait, wait, wait.

Is your car still stock or pretty close? I'm pretty sure it is. If you are running lean because of your aftermarket MAF then you need to pull that POS out and get it back to complete stock.

IIRC your car is just waiting to explode. Now may be a good time to part ways with it and start over on something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No I'm not useing the Pro-M MAF. It is still pretty close to stock. All I've got left on it is the exhaust, 65 mm T.B., and under drive pulleys. I've removed everything else from the car. I still haven't done the alternator and fan yet. I want to get the lean condition repaired first. Thanks for your response.
 

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No I'm not useing the Pro-M MAF. It is still pretty close to stock. All I've got left on it is the exhaust, 65 mm T.B., and under drive pulleys. I've removed everything else from the car. I still haven't done the alternator and fan yet. I want to get the lean condition repaired first. Thanks for your response.
Ok, so if it's pretty close to stock, there has to be a reason that it's running lean aside from needing a larger fuel pump. In a closed loop system it has to be one of the sensors that regulates fuel like the MAF, 02 sensors, ACT or even ECT. There is a possibility that it's your TPS.

Bottom line, get a OBD I code scanner and run a cylinder balance check. That will tell you which cylinder is having a problem and it will also tell you if you have codes that are not stored codes but running codes only. It may be something as simple as a bad sensor from those above or maybe even the EGR being stuck open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will do it as soon as I can. I'm not going to get on it for awhile. You know, I've never replaced the ACT or ECT. I was told once by a shop, before I had a scan tool, that they got an ACT or ECT reading or something. I geuss it was a code! It was when I was having MAF and IAC problems.
If it wasn't computer controlled, I'd know just what to do. These damn computer cars are driving me crazy.
 

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I will do it as soon as I can. I'm not going to get on it for awhile. You know, I've never replaced the ACT or ECT. I was told once by a shop, before I had a scan tool, that they got an ACT or ECT reading or something. I geuss it was a code! It was when I was having MAF and IAC problems.
Well, I won't tell you to blindly start changing sensors. Get a code scanner and see what the running codes are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You know what? I checked them about a week ago, I got nothing out of the ordinary. I did the KOEO and KOER tests. Nothing? What if it never gets to like a good operating temp? My needle stays around the N in N O R M on the gauge. I know that isn't great for a gauge. I need to get a mechanical one.
 

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You know what? I checked them about a week ago, I got nothing out of the ordinary. I did the KOEO and KOER tests. Nothing? What if it never gets to like a good operating temp? My needle stays around the N in N O R M on the gauge. I know that isn't great for a gauge. I need to get a mechanical one.
Hmmm.....that doesn't sound good. I would start by replacing the thermostat and then, if that doesn't change the situation, I would change the ECT sensor. You may not throw a code but could still have a bad sensor that is providing bad data.
 

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So the car is running lean or people say "it smells lean"???

How's the fuel pressure? Got a new fuel filter?

Does this car still have the original catalytic converters? With a history of running problems they could be fried. Just misfiring for ten minutes can melt a converter. You could probably get a backpressure check at an exhaust shop for some a few bucks. Just guessing over the internet with a vague history of your car the converters would be my first guess.

With a decent scanner your car will give a live datastream. If the iat and ect are both the same temp on a cold start they are good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It does have that cat. stink to it. Like nasty fried eggs. My wife noticed it today. I think her words were, "WHAT IS THAT SMELL???" What would happen if I drive with out the thermostat? Just for a little while. If I sit in traffic on the highway, the temp will go up to the M in N O R M on the gauge.
 

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The way I test really stopped up cats is to partially unbolt the headpipe enough to let the exhaust out. If the running problem is fixed sell 'em a new cat.

That running warm while idling is likely a bad fan clutch. DO NOT buy a Hayden fan clutch. They are junk. Stick that e-fan on there instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm trying to get all of the stuff to do it. I need the alternator bracket still and then I can put it all in. I've got everything else to do it. I'll have to get ahold of Lonnie again and get it. It will still run lean though when I'm on the gas hard. It may be the cats. I've lost alot of power lately. It may be one or the other or the middle one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did the engine balance test, I got number 8 cylinder. What does that tell me? It can't tell me it is running lean? I still think the cats are bad. I got that stinky egg shell smell again today.
 
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