TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I picked up a 97 4.6 t bird yesterday and it seemed to have a small misfire. I figure its just spark plugs. Today I changed them, started up the car and it bogged out. I cleaned the MAF forgot to plug it back in, but it ran much better with it unplugged. As soon as I plugged it back in, the car died. It sounded like a vacuum leak for a second but the noise went away. The car runs much smoother at higher RPM but as the RPM comes down, the whole car shakes. I got out of the car and noticed two wet spots on the ground. Any help is much appreciated as this the first 4.6 in my family.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,153 Posts
The fact that the car ran better with the MAF sensor unplugged makes me suspect it as faulty.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,961 Posts
The fact that the car ran better with the MAF sensor unplugged makes me suspect it as faulty.
unless there is a vacuum leak, at which point plugging the maf back in would trick the computer into thinking only the air going through the maf is what is reaching the engine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
I'd replace the maf sensor too. Wet spots are probably condensation comin from drain holes in mufflers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I already got the air filter, fuel filter, I had to order the plug wires nobody had them for some reason. I will probably do the iac tomorrow. Could the iac be the problem or would it be a waste?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,573 Posts
First thing I would do is go and get a can of CRC MAF cleaner. Clean that MAF sensor out!! A $6 can is a lot better than a new MAF on a guess. Plus that should be part of routine maintenance on these cars. My guess is a extremely dirty MAF sensor causing the issues, OR the vacuum line at the rear of the throttle body(the elbow) that is cracked.

My 96 sat for 1.5 years before I got my hands on it. It ran 'ok' at idle, but if you gave it ANY gas it would bog down and want to die, till it got to about 3K rpm. The vacuum line mentioned above was cracked and the MAF sensor was extremely dirty. Total cost of repairs was like $10. The water is probibly condensation.... normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well the MAF was filthy when I cleaned it yesterday and it still ran the same. I found a vacuum leak on the passenger PCV line and fixed it but the problem persists. I don't even know what to do now. It idles around 750-1000 RPM but it drops under that sometimes and the car fights to stay alive so RPM jump to about 1250. I need help :-(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Update: I went to drive the car to a local shop about 3 miles away. Keep in mind I drove it about 50 miles to my house after I bought it. Well I started it and it died, so I tried again and it stayed alive but when i hit the gas it just gave up. I repeated this 3 times and while sometimes it did not die after hitting the gas, it would not go anywhere. This leads me to believe a clogged cat, bad fuel pump, bad fuel filter (getting the tools to change it today), or bad fuel regulator(?). I consider myself very new when it comes to diagnosing engine troubles. I have also forgotten to mention that my SEL/CEL same on, but I have no way of reading the code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,573 Posts
Find a way of reading the codes. That will lead you to the answer rather than guessing what the problem is. OBDII code readers are fairly cheap and pay for themselves the first time you use them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
As soon as I got a CEL I stopped guessing. I was going to buy the scangauge out of the parts for sale section but I found out my girlfriend had ordered a kiwi wifi for me. So I will read the codes with that and get back to you guys.
 

·
SuperNewbie
Joined
·
2,869 Posts
Definitely want to hear what you discover on this car. I'm working on a car that has a similar issue that just doesn't seem to want to fix itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm thinking it could be O2 sensors, clogged cats, egr issues, or fuel a fuel problem. Trust me, your not the only one who wants to know whats going on here lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
read the codes today. I got a p0352, and 2 p0000. What the heck is a p0000 code??? And the other code is for ignition coil side B i think. I assume its the passenger side but should i also assume that both coils should be changed at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
So i checked the wires and everything and they were all fine. I replaced both coils and all plug wires and now it wont even start. Its been running worse and worse since I got it and now it wont even start up. I am thoroughly P/Oed
UPDATE: I got it to start, but I am having the same issues but now with the addition of white smoke from both tailpipes. No new codes. Soooooo any ideas?
 

·
Voice/Data Guru
Joined
·
7,781 Posts
Does the smoke smell like oil or fuel , water dumping into the combustion chamber will pump out white smoke as well Sounds like you have a bad head gasket 3.8s are bad for doing that
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top