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1.)The Circle Track Shocks you mention as an option. (I'd have to buy the 7" ones per your OP). S7G-5555
2.) I do not have easy access to a lathe and the shops I have done work with in the past would balk at machining the insert.

I know your pictures show the insert vs the koni. Do you have a comparo of the insert vs the S7G? I"m curious to see if the shaft difference is also so big. I agree that the insert is the better choice, but it appears I can save approximately $200 in challenge budget with the CT vs insert. That's enough for a complete bushing redo in the rear irs. Or a new JY explorer/mountaineer pi motor on half price day. (which dumps 100 lbs up front.)

I thought more about it last night, the spring should help keep the shock inside of the cut off sleeve fairly well and with the non-mcpherson setup we do not get much side loading at all.

Which brings me to another point, I know MM and you worked so hard to put the monoball up top, the only time these are needed to me is on a mcpherson, since you get a lot of side loading and you set camber by the strut location. You need the ability for the top of the shock to rotate while still holding it laterally against high forces.
I don't believe that you would need to lathe anything if you go with the inserts. I pressed one in because my tubing cutter created a ridge that a rat tail file would have fixed if I had to do it again.

I think the CT shocks are a trap but that's just my opinion.
 

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MM, do you have a picture of the cup after you pressed it? I'm fairly sure I understand what you did but want to make sure.

So you feel like the insert went in easily without having to put a LOT of force on things to get it going?
 

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MM, do you have a picture of the cup after you pressed it? I'm fairly sure I understand what you did but want to make sure.

So you feel like the insert went in easily without having to put a LOT of force on things to get it going?
The pics are in the thread where I documented it.

The first shock got pressed in because I was too stupi... inexperienced to realize that I created a ridge around the top of the donor shock body. The second one slid right in without any resistance.
 

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The pics are in the thread where I documented it.

The first shock got pressed in because I was too stupi... inexperienced to realize that I created a ridge around the top of the donor shock body. The second one slid right in without any resistance.
Nice, I'm refering to the cup at the bottom that S4 had issues with. (He had to made a threaded insert to hold the shock it appears? ) His OP here states that you pressed it to open up the cup, unfortunately the angle in the pictures you posted hides this portion of the shock.
 

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Nice, I'm refering to the cup at the bottom that S4 had issues with. (He had to made a threaded insert to hold the shock it appears? ) His OP here states that you pressed it to open up the cup, unfortunately the angle in the pictures you posted hides this portion of the shock.
OK, I see. I just used the press to flatten it out. However, if you don't have access to a shop press then you could just hammer it flat. I really liked what he did with the bottom of the shock but my method has held up just fine over the race season. I am very sure that there are many ways to resolve this beside how we did it.
 

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... the spring should help keep the shock inside of the cut off sleeve fairly well and with the non-mcpherson setup we do not get much side loading at all.

...
The spring is actually trying to remove the shock insert, at ~550 lbs/in of compression. :)

There's a retainer that holds it in; my Konis have a large bolt.

Once they're in, the weight of the car opposes that a bit, but those springs are strong. :)
 

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The spring is actually trying to remove the shock insert, at ~550 lbs/in of compression. :)

There's a retainer that holds it in; my Konis have a large bolt.

Once they're in, the weight of the car opposes that a bit, but those springs are strong. :)
I was not refering to axial pull out/in but side loading on the shock casing in the case of the CT shocks.

I've been playing with my budget all morning to see if I can justify the inserts. I still have to redo the entire rear IRS from 250ish k miles of neglect...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
1.)The Circle Track Shocks you mention as an option. (I'd have to buy the 7" ones per your OP). S7G-5555
2.) I do not have easy access to a lathe and the shops I have done work with in the past would balk at machining the insert.

I know your pictures show the insert vs the koni. Do you have a comparo of the insert vs the S7G? I"m curious to see if the shaft difference is also so big. I agree that the insert is the better choice, but it appears I can save approximately $200 in challenge budget with the CT vs insert. That's enough for a complete bushing redo in the rear irs. Or a new JY explorer/mountaineer pi motor on half price day. (which dumps 100 lbs up front.)

I thought more about it last night, the spring should help keep the shock inside of the cut off sleeve fairly well and with the non-mcpherson setup we do not get much side loading at all.

Which brings me to another point, I know MM and you worked so hard to put the monoball up top, the only time these are needed to me is on a mcpherson, since you get a lot of side loading and you set camber by the strut location. You need the ability for the top of the shock to rotate while still holding it laterally against high forces.
1) I didn't take a comparison image of the S7 circle track shock vs the insert because as soon as the S7 came in and I saw how tiny they were, I sent them back and ordered the inserts. You can see how much bigger it is by taking a look at the diameter of the S7 vs the diameter of the cut down shock. The cut down shock width is right at the diameter of the insert (remember that I had to lathe the shock down).

2) I'm sure you can find someone with a lathe. Remember you aren't looking for accuracy here -- you are just shaving the outside down to match the thinner bottom section diameter. At least in the case of my donor shock assemblies, the bottom section of the insert fit without any issues whereas the tops needed to be narrowed. In your case, with your donor shocks, they might just drop in. If it goes far enough down, you can just make the threaded insert as I did to grab the bottom mount of the bilstein insert.

3) It's also fairly easy to make my threaded insert using hexagonal stock as the starting point. Since accuracy is not an issue here (the hexagonal part needs to be bigger than the hole in the bottom of the shock, the shaft going inwards has to be bigger than the threaded part of the bilstein insert, and the hole in the bottom of the shock assembly needs to be big enough to allow the threaded insert to fit.

You then use a thread tap to cut the right threads into a hole you drilli into the new threaded insert (drill it with the lathe). I've used a late exactly ONE time before we realized that this was the best way to solve the problem and my buddy with the machine shop just let me loose.

4) Honestly, I made that monoball setup because MaddMartigan posted a pic of that porsche part and I thought, "hey, i could make that". I said the same thing when I saw the Bosozoku star shaped exhaust and the exhaust on a Pagani Zonda. Realistically, all you need is a hole in the shock top that fits the new fatter shaft from the bilstein insert. Madd Martigan's tube and washer setup will be just as effective (and cheaper). You don't need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I was not refering to axial pull out/in but side loading on the shock casing in the case of the CT shocks.

I've been playing with my budget all morning to see if I can justify the inserts. I still have to redo the entire rear IRS from 250ish k miles of neglect...
Buy the inserts. Machine shop Labor can be free. Mine was. I stipulate that yours can be free too.
Rears can be bilstein cobra rears.

For the GRM budget, a crappy, lighter turbo car which you can turn the boost up on is probably a better contender for an overall win. Your car is not likely to dominate in the quarter mile/autocross segments given it's weight so just have fun with it.

-g
 

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Buy the inserts. Machine shop Labor can be free. Mine was. I stipulate that yours can be free too.
Rears can be bilstein cobra rears.

For the GRM budget, a crappy, lighter turbo car which you can turn the boost up on is probably a better contender for an overall win. Your car is not likely to dominate in the quarter mile/autocross segments given it's weight so just have fun with it.

-g
I totally agree, my goal is a fun handling car. Not a contender. Maybe after a few years I'll worry about a contender but trying to outdo top 10 cars requires more time and ability than I have at this time.

After the GRM it'll turn into a DD. Heck it'll be a DD before that too. With autocross etc. like you said, I'm just out to have fun with the car I dated my wife in. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I totally agree, my goal is a fun handling car. Not a contender. Maybe after a few years I'll worry about a contender but trying to outdo top 10 cars requires more time and ability than I have at this time.

After the GRM it'll turn into a DD. Heck it'll be a DD before that too. With autocross etc. like you said, I'm just out to have fun with the car I dated my wife in. lol.
Glad to see that you have a realistic view of the world. :)
One more suggestion: don't go nuts with the swaybar and buy the biggest one you can afford. I found that was detrimental to handling and the car is much more predictable now that I dialed it back.

-g
 

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Just got a set of the Bilstein inserts and looking back at this thread for the how to tutorial. Great information here for sure. I may have missed it, but did any of you get the upper shock mount for a 3000GT and see if it would bolt into the existing hole? I would assume the 3 holes wouldn't line up but drilling a few holes would obviously be very easy. As much as you've all looked at this I assume there is a reason this won't work. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Any chance you'd want to make another set? 🤞
If Randy can't do it, I'm sure you can find some local welder and do the job for cheaper than shipping 2 ways.
You really just need to tack weld the spherical monoball bearing housing in the cup underneath your shock tower mounts to hold it in place. the bearing is held in place by the tension of the spring anyway.


Then you can claim you have the same shock mount mechanism as a Porsche GT3 (which is where Randy gave me the idea to find those bearings in the first place).
 

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I can do it. Just don't do any of the double shipping nonsense. If you guys want a set then just say it and tell me where you want me to buy the upper mounts. I can get them, get the spherical bearings, the washers I need and then weld them and ship them. Easy peasy, nice and easy.
 

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i have the set MM made for me. I donated the car to my BIL's father and never used the inserts or the shock tops. (with bearings)
also have a set of king lower springs.
pm me for an offer for it all (inserts, tops, springs or w/e you want.)
 

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For those of you who inserted the Bilsteins without first trimming them down, what sort of press was used to press them in?
 
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