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idk if this is the right place to ask this at


i finaly found an sc clutch peddle there asking 125 for it is this to much for the setup
 

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I thought I would Hi-Jack this old thread instead of starting a new. So as anyone tried using Ranger pedals? Heck even S-10 or Camaro? I been thinking very seriously about T5 swap behind my 3.8 ,M5R2's are getting hard to find and V6 Mustangs w/ T5 are everywhere in salvage yards, also by using V6 Mustang it will make the clutch & flywheel easy, and using the S-10 slave is simple, shifter extension is simple. I know a Ranger clutch master cyl won't work because the line is held in by a roll pin. What about early S-10's or Camaro? Any thoughts?
 

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The line on the SC is also held into the master by a roll pin. I know a couple people have done the swap with Mustang pedals, which converts it to a cable clutch setup, but I know from trying it myself that there would be a lot of fabrication and modification of the pedals, and relocating a lot of things under the dash to make room for it. On my first T45 swap that I did, I already had the mustang pedals, aluminum clutch quadrant, and adjustable cable, and I was trying very hard to make the cable setup work, but the room under the dash simply wasn't there, and the amount of work that would be involved with it, it simply wasn't worth it, so I started looking for other options, and that is when I figured out the S10 slave option with the SC pedal and master. That was back around 2003 I think, and since then many people have done the S10 slave option, and some have done things with other slave cylinders and using different fittings and different hydraulic lines, but almost everyone has used the stock SC clutch pedal and master precisely because it is cheap, it bolts right in, and it works. I understand that swapping in a manual trans into one of these cars is a custom job any way you look at it, but when there is a factory part that bolts in and works, and it only costs $100-150, why would you do all that work to re-engineer something? You'll end up having at least $75 and 6-8 hours into screwing around with it to make it work instead of bolting in a pedal and going.

As for the T5 swap behind your 3.8, a T5 has certain advantages, and an M5R2 has others, but every 3.8/5.0 MN12 that I have swapped a manual trans into has gotten the M5R2 simply because it truly is a bolt-in swap that 2 guys can get done in one day, and it doesn't involve any cutting or welding or fabrication. Pretty much the only advantages the T5 would have would be parts availability if you break something, ease of removal/installation once the swap is completed, and more options for gear ratios if you are looking for road racing, but for a street car, the M5R2 wins for the overall ease and cost of the swap. Also, the one thing that has always been a disadvantage for the M5R2 is that the factory blocker rings for the synchros were discontinued, and when a rebuild was required, you had to use inferior parts, but Mike Puckett on SCCoA has put a lot of time and money into getting new and better ones reproduced, so it is looking like that won't be an issue anymore.
 

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I have access to 2 5-speed cars and plan to pull the pedals from both. I haven't looked at them very good to tell, but exactly how time consuming are we talking?
 

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I have access to 2 5-speed cars and plan to pull the pedals from both. I haven't looked at them very good to tell, but exactly how time consuming are we talking?
The dashboard has to come out to get to them. You're probably looking at about 2-4 hours to pull the pedal assembly and master cylinder, depending how quick you are.
 

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That's not what I wanted to hear. No other way huh?
 

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As for the T5 swap behind your 3.8, a T5 has certain advantages, and an M5R2 has others, but every 3.8/5.0 MN12 that I have swapped a manual trans into has gotten the M5R2 simply because it truly is a bolt-in swap that 2 guys can get done in one day, and it doesn't involve any cutting or welding or fabrication.
I guess it's more like "availability thing" I would love to swap in a M5R2 and be done...well anyway thanks for the feed back. It's going to be awhile before this even gets close to happening. I still may look into other pedal/cylinder options, maybe I'll come up with something great and make a sticky :D. Fabrication is have the fun like my dads '46 pick up has a hydraulic clutch set up, pedals / master and external slave from a '83 F100 fabricated on to a '82 LL 4-speed.
 

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The dashboard has to come out to get to them. You're probably looking at about 2-4 hours to pull the pedal assembly and master cylinder, depending how quick you are.
As an update:

I didn't have to pull the dash at all. If you pull the cluster, there is a black hose that leads to the driver side vent. Just behind that hose is the top 13mm bolt for the clutch pedal. If you're in the junkyard, just rip that hose out and use a 13mm ratchet wrench. Then pop off the arm for the master and remove it from the firewall side (1/4 turn counter-clockwise). Unplug the clutch sensor under the dash. Remove 3x 10mm (iirc) nuts on firewall side. This is where it gets tricky - use something to push the pedal bracket back into the dash until the 3 studs are clear of the firewall. It takes some finesse for sure, but do-able. I used a 3' crow-bar and a 4lb sledge. That sounds extreme, but it takes some effort to clear the top stud.

I got 2 pedals out un-harmed using that method.
 
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