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I’ve been having my eye on this specific one, checked reviews on YouTube and got nothing but great feed back, it’s a flux welder so no gas. My only problem is I don’t have a garage or something to actually weld up anything. I’d love to learn on the bird by making the rear seat braces similar to the mark 8’s.
Not a fan of Flux unless youre going ARC. Do yourself a favor and buy with a gas hookup if you're going wire feed, go MIG or don't bother.

do you have any braces on your bird?
LOL, on my SC ?? .. F_ck no.

Got my eye on a set of BMR SFC's for the SS .. 😉



Underbody bracing on the GT350R ..



4 point RC



Here is the bracing in our friends GT3RS ..



😉
 

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One of my favorite To Gear Clarkson lines is when Hammond used a GT3 in a challenge and questioned him why it had scaffolding in the back seat 😆
The GT350R and the 911 GT3RS pictured above did not come with rear seats. 😉

If / when I decide to play with my SC again, the rear seat will more than likely be removed as well. 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Not a fan of Flux unless youre going ARC. Do yourself a favor and buy with a gas hookup if you're going wire feed, go MIG or don't bother.



LOL, on my SC ?? .. F_ck no.

Got my eye on a set of BMR SFC's for the SS .. 😉

View attachment 49913

Underbody bracing on the GT350R ..

View attachment 49914

4 point RC

View attachment 49915

Here is the bracing in our friends GT3RS ..

View attachment 49916

😉
Dumb question but did you feel a difference difference with the roll cage on either of those cars? I’m sure them suckers are already stiff as can be!
Also, my friend recently got PP2 mustang wheels for his 18’ base gt and it’s tram lining somewhat over rough surfaces. Did you notice a difference with that red brace you have pictures? It ties the lower “legs” of the kmember where it grabs the frame together doesn’t it? I’ve it was about 100$ Was wondering if it was worth the money.
Similarly, I was thinking of something similar for my bird, since the common mod is to grab the K to the frame rails I wonder with tying those together to each other would have any additional merit.
Thank you guys for the responses btw
 

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The roll cage is more of a preemptive safety item ( some tracks require a roll cage ).

The GT350R .. all of the SFC and RC were installed at the same time; but the car was tracked before and after - there is a noticeable difference in body flex, but for the most part the biggest limitation on that car is the tires - the Pro Cup2s wore out very quickly and it has regular summer tires for the time being. I don't believe the one brace in question does a whole lot except in hard driving ( remember .. the Shelby has upgraded bushings over the GTs so that point of flex has been eliminated from the factory .. also, the GT350 is a "wide body" so it's not exactly the same Mustang chassis to begin with ).

The 911 GT3R got the RC immediately after purchase - the owner of that car also has a GT350R decked out with the RC and all SFCs but it's been sidelined in favor of the 911 for the track.

My SS has a noticeable creak from the rear and front windows driving over surfaces that flex the chassis - I have been told the SFC will cure that and I intend to find out with my next round of upgrades ( SFC, Tunnel Brace and 6 piston front Brembo calipers are next on my list .. )

As for tying the subframes to the chassis on the Tbird; absolutely makes a difference. I did an installation for a member here years ago, but to sum it up .. vogtland springs, KYb shocks I think, front SFC and the crown jewels, the biggest ADDCO front and rear sway bars ) .. that car drove like a go kart on rails after those mods, when you turned the wheel, the whole car turned with no chassis roll - I believe the biggest contributor was the sway bars on that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The roll cage is more of a preemptive safety item ( some tracks require a roll cage ).

The GT350R .. all of the SFC and RC were installed at the same time; but the car was tracked before and after - there is a noticeable difference in body flex, but for the most part the biggest limitation on that car is the tires - the Pro Cup2s wore out very quickly and it has regular summer tires for the time being. I don't believe the one brace in question does a whole lot except in hard driving ( remember .. the Shelby has upgraded bushings over the GTs so that point of flex has been eliminated from the factory .. also, the GT350 is a "wide body" so it's not exactly the same Mustang chassis to begin with ).

The 911 GT3R got the RC immediately after purchase - the owner of that car also has a GT350R decked out with the RC and all SFCs but it's been sidelined in favor of the 911 for the track.

My SS has a noticeable creak from the rear and front windows driving over surfaces that flex the chassis - I have been told the SFC will cure that and I intend to find out with my next round of upgrades ( SFC, Tunnel Brace and 6 piston front Brembo calipers are next on my list .. )

As for tying the subframes to the chassis on the Tbird; absolutely makes a difference. I did an installation for a member here years ago, but to sum it up .. vogtland springs, KYb shocks I think, front SFC and the crown jewels, the biggest ADDCO front and rear sway bars ) .. that car drove like a go kart on rails after those mods, when you turned the wheel, the whole car turned with no chassis roll - I believe the biggest contributor was the sway bars on that setup.
You have some very cool friends 😬😬 I see what you mean about the 350 control arms bushings, I’ve seen people who get that brace because they have bad tram lining issues over rough surfaces.

I have qa1’s up front along with all those braces, JL type Subframe braces, rear lower control arm brace, rearstrut bar brace vogtland 1.6 rearsprings on bilstien cobra shocks, the addco 1 1/4” rear sway bar and all delrin rear ended and solid mount subframe. Also I have all 3 factory braces V L and X brace from the mark. The bird handles thecurves very well. I’d love to get in the future a matching front bar and strut tower brace.
What tires where they running? I have 275/4018 all around and I’m feeling like they might be too big for my car. I get pretty bad dash creak over rough surfaces.


the point of the seam sealant EVERYWHERE is to make this chassis that much more solid without adding too much weight. Since it’s already a pig.

Anybody else have any braces they have made for their birds that don’t get much attention?
 

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I don't think the brace helps with tramlining .. if anything it might increase it. If what you are describing as tramline - when your tires follow the grooves in the road, a tire with low sidewalls is going to be affected more.

Tires ?? Michelin Sportcup2 was the factory tire on the GT350R, 295/35/19 and 305/35/19 on CF wheels. Tires alone cost over $600 each.

Same on the GT3, Sportcup2s on 265/35/20 and 325/30/21. Super sticky tire when hot, perfect for the track ( wear out in less than 5000 miles on the streets )

I run Michelin PS4 tires 255/35/19 and 285/30/19s on the SS. .. factory Bridgestones didn't last more than 10k miles after a few track days and drag strips.

Staggered wheels and tires help with understeer on cars that don't have a turning radius nearly as good as the MN12. 😉

The dash area is a major flex point ( although the actual creak sound is more likely the dash itself ), I did crack my front windshield after an aggressive drive down from Lake Tahoe years ago in my Tbird. Underbody bracing can only do so much to help this flex area. An alternative solution* may be discussed about stiffening the dash area itself ( obviously it flexes and cracks the firewall )

The strut tower brace won't do anything, don't bother; buy the ADDCO front bar for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yea that’s what I’ve been trying to figure out, how to get the front end tighter, besides all the typical underbody bracing I’m not sure what else could be done to stiffen it up, besides the use of the structural seam sealant. As far as a tower brace, everybody has a different opinion. I’m on the side that says they do help, but to each his own not gonna argue over this.

most def going to grab the front sway bar tho, it’s a must. I have the 1 1/4 rear and it made a huge difference. I’m currently deciding onthe 1 1/4 or 3/8 up front.
 

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I think 1 3/8 may be preferred on an all out canyon carver and smaller for more subtle ride change. With the higher weight on the front of these cars, you want more than the rear has up front.
 

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Remember that the bigger the sway bar the less independent the suspension will operate, I think the 1-3/8 is too big, they certainly "feel" different but they are going to exacerbate whatever the front structure stiffness problem is you're perceiving. You have QA1 coilovers too, correct? The rule of thumb I have learned through track racers is the springs should do the most work, keeping the axles independent and selecting the sway bar for fine tuning. The Bondurant racing school used Supercoupes at one time and they determined the best handling combination was 600lb/in springs, 1-1/4 front sway bar and stock(SC) sized sway bar in the back. @MaddMartigan had similar observations when setting up his Bird
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
That’s interesting, I have 450’s up front to n the QA1’s and I feel like it’s just a bit too loose. Now that you say 600 up front I had been planning to go up to 550 and grab the 1 1/4. I figured if I went to stuff it would eliminate the pros of the IFS. I think this would be a good median for a sporty daily driver.

Also I was looking at these braces what do you guys think about them. They are for foxbodies/sn95/new edge and the s197


I’ve been reading reviews on them and the limited reviews they are it’s all good. It’s chromoly so they only add about 20lbs for both.

I like the MN12 but it’s just such a damn wet noodle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Also also also, what do you think think of casting the stock front spindles in aluminum?? Is this even possible or safe? I’d say thing thing to lose a bit of weight up front is very beneficial specially unsprung weight
 

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If you're going to a subframe connector like that you really need to be willing to weld them to the front and rear subframe.
 
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Yep and willing to make the fuel tank permanently installed in effect.


Also also also, what do you think think of casting the stock front spindles in aluminum?? Is this even possible or safe? I’d say thing thing to lose a bit of weight up front is very beneficial specially unsprung weight
Everything’s possible, just a matter of money, less money less safe lol Probably negligible weight savings, the spindles aren’t that heav
 
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