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Discussion Starter #1
I've been slowly dismantling my 96 t-bird over the winter for spare parts to use on the Mark VIII.

I've taken all of the new goodies that are interchangeable, as well as the spindles front and rear, steering wheel, airbag, clockspring, uca's, tie rod bellows, etc.

I did have a list of things I wanted to take, and I've removed everything I wanted but for two things:

1. The strut rods (to keep as spares just in case)

2. The LCA to subframe camber bolts in the front.

I can't get the bolts out and have been prying, oiling, beating etc. and they don't want to come out, and of course, no. 2 is preventing me from removing no 1.

So my question is, before I send the bird to car heaven (more like car hell when you think about it) is there a replacement for the lca camber bolts? I hear the Moogs are the wrong size, but Rockauto lists delcos and mevotechs. Has anyone tried them?

Also is it worth keeping extra strut rods? I mean if the car is hit hard enough to bend the strut rods, wouldn't it be totalled anyways?

Anything else that I should grab from the car before it goes away?
 

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Not the rods per se, but the front bushing sleeves if they're in good shape.

If you unbolt the shock and spindle, and run the strut rod all the way to the front, you SHOULD be able to pull the rod off the LCA, and then pull it out the subframe.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Not the rods per se, but the front bushing sleeves if they're in good shape.

If you unbolt the shock and spindle, and run the strut rod all the way to the front, you SHOULD be able to pull the rod off the LCA, and then pull it out the subframe.

RwP
Here's the weird thing - the strut rod to lca nut will not come off! I've used two impact guns on it, a 2 and 4 foot breaker bar and all it does is twist the rod, but the nut does not loosen. I've got a 19mm wrench on the rod which hits the sway bar to stop it from rotating, but the rod just twists.

I've never had trouble like this removing that nut. I did the bushings on this car a couple years ago and didn't have any problem, and recently did the Lincoln without issue.

Maybe it's time for the angle grinder and cut off wheel :diablo:
 

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Here's the weird thing - the strut rod to lca nut will not come off! I've used two impact guns on it, a 2 and 4 foot breaker bar and all it does is twist the rod, but the nut does not loosen. I've got a 19mm wrench on the rod which hits the sway bar to stop it from rotating, but the rod just twists.

I've never had trouble like this removing that nut. I did the bushings on this car a couple years ago and didn't have any problem, and recently did the Lincoln without issue.

Maybe it's time for the angle grinder and cut off wheel :diablo:
I realize that this car has probably long gone to that great grave yard in the sky. I had the joy of replacing my LCA in January of 2014. In sub 20 degree weather. I had the same issue with stubborn bolts. Nothing would move them. Including propane and a 6 foot piece of cheater pipe. In the end a buddy brought over a bernzamatic MAPP gas torch and it was hot enough to break the nut loose. Of course it cooked the bushings where the strut rod attaches to the LCA. But it did come off. Made a believer out of MAPP gas for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I realize that this car has probably long gone to that great grave yard in the sky. I had the joy of replacing my LCA in January of 2014. In sub 20 degree weather. I had the same issue with stubborn bolts. Nothing would move them. Including propane and a 6 foot piece of cheater pipe. In the end a buddy brought over a bernzamatic MAPP gas torch and it was hot enough to break the nut loose. Of course it cooked the bushings where the strut rod attaches to the LCA. But it did come off. Made a believer out of MAPP gas for me.
Couldn't agree with you more about MAPP gas. Propane just doesn't cut it.

Car's long gone to the crushers, but I got $500 for it and an old farm truck I had. Not too shabby if you ask me.
 
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