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Discussion Starter #1
What does this typically mean? Is this equivalent to a Check Engine Light (CEL)?

This light popped up on me last night and I haven't had a chance to check it out yet.
 

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Yes, it means there is a fault code stored in memory. Have the code read (the actual code, not the meaning), then report back.
 

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Yep, same thing. Nowadays they use a symbol in place of the words. The code will likely be in the format P0xxx where XXX is three digits. Post back here, search here, or lookup @ http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
 

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yep



all trying to tell you the same thing, just from different years or different cars.

somebody somewhere just decided that the old light wasn't descriptive enough, or wanted to make it smaller. who knows.. the newest one is the picture of an engine. i guess they figured that's all you need, no need to scream at you in yellow from your dashboard CHECK ENGINE!
 

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I've always wondered why the include the torque converter on the engine, and most of the time the MIL is on for something not engine related, its funny that most engines look nothing like that anymore haha
 

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I always like the new style idiot lights and had Scott design me some for my Thunderbird that I haven't used yet which also included a CRUISE light where the upshift light would be on the speedometer (not shown) - another project that never got finished!

 

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which also included a CRUISE light where the upshift light would be on the speedometer (not shown)
I looked into doing that last year on the Cougar, but I never found a place to get the signal for the light from. Let me know if you do.
 

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I looked into doing that last year on the Cougar, but I never found a place to get the signal for the light from. Let me know if you do.
The wire you need may lie with the harness where the info center would have gone.

I personally want to convert my "Service Engine Soon" light to say $$$ I figure it's more accurate, but I'll do it to my 94 since in 97 the MIL/Check Engine Light bulb check is part of emissions testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, same thing. Nowadays they use a symbol in place of the words. The code will likely be in the format P0xxx where XXX is three digits. Post back here, search here, or lookup @ http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
yep



all trying to tell you the same thing, just from different years or different cars.

somebody somewhere just decided that the old light wasn't descriptive enough, or wanted to make it smaller. who knows.. the newest one is the picture of an engine. i guess they figured that's all you need, no need to scream at you in yellow from your dashboard CHECK ENGINE!
Thanks guys. Wasn't sure if that was the same thing. I'm used to seeing just the engine picture as the CEL light and if any words, it was usually just the word "engine".

Once I'm done with my homework in a couple of hours, I'll use my scanner to check the code. It's one of those cheapie scanners that my in-laws got for me that only detects some of the codes. It would have been hella awesome if they gave me one of those super expensive "I can read all codes" scanners.

I've always wondered why the include the torque converter on the engine, and most of the time the MIL is on for something not engine related, its funny that most engines look nothing like that anymore haha
On my Honda, there are a few codes that are specifically transmission related.
 

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Thanks guys. Wasn't sure if that was the same thing. I'm used to seeing just the engine picture as the CEL light and if any words, it was usually just the word "engine".

Once I'm done with my homework in a couple of hours, I'll use my scanner to check the code. It's one of those cheapie scanners that my in-laws got for me that only detects some of the codes. It would have been hella awesome if they gave me one of those super expensive "I can read all codes" scanners.

On my Honda, there are a few codes that are specifically transmission related.
On my 1981 Toyota pick-up, there is one light in the middle of the dash that says in big letters SENSOR
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright, so I just now scanned the codes using my scanner and it picked up P0430 two times. For each time it had the short description "System Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2".

I imagine that there is something wrong with an O2 sensor, or a CAT is now bad? This is what the website linked earlier says the problem could be. The website says

Basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter on bank 2 is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.
Which I interpret as the O2 sensor after the CAT is bad or the CAT itself is bad. On the 4.6L, is there one O2 sensor after the exhaust manifolds come into the "Y" or are there two O2 sensors, one for each side of the manifold before the "Y"? Does this car have one or two CATs?

I'm a little worried about this now especially since the car has to go pass emissions test by January in order to get the registration renewed. I hope it's just the O2 sensor and not the CAT.
 

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Your car has four o2 sensors, two upstream, and two downstream. It's a cat code, clear it and drive around, sometimes they detect a problem and throw a code but then do not see the problem again, its worth a shot since catalytic converters are not cheap.
 

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Alright, so I just now scanned the codes using my scanner and it picked up P0430 two times. For each time it had the short description "System Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2".

I imagine that there is something wrong with an O2 sensor, or a CAT is now bad? This is what the website linked earlier says the problem could be. The website says



Which I interpret as the O2 sensor after the CAT is bad or the CAT itself is bad. On the 4.6L, is there one O2 sensor after the exhaust manifolds come into the "Y" or are there two O2 sensors, one for each side of the manifold before the "Y"? Does this car have one or two CATs?

I'm a little worried about this now especially since the car has to go pass emissions test by January in order to get the registration renewed. I hope it's just the O2 sensor and not the CAT.
That particular code can ONLY be generated by a bad cat on bank 2. Slight possibility of a bad rear O2 on bank2, but 90+% it's a bad cat on bank 2 (which I believe is the driver's side).
 

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Good news! You CAN buy the cats preassembled on downtubes for what appears to be not that much money from RockAuto!

Also, if you're going to go dual ANYWAY, Mandrel Exhaust Systems has both a downpipe / cat / X-pipe set and a true-dual back to where mufflers would be. You'd need both, AND a pair of mufflers, plus a rack and welder, plus maybe some cutting tools, to put these in.

For the bucks, I'd grab the kit from RockAuto. For future growth, I'd look at Mandrel Exhaust Systems kit. But there I am, spending your money :diablo:

RwP
 

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FWIW, I had my front 2 cats changed on my 95 Bird a few years ago for about $120 at a local muffler shop - they cut out the originals and welded some new ones in.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ended up clearing the code and it didn't come back on during the 50 mile drive back home from where I was staying at doing my homework and stuff. I drove my Honda to work today and I'll be driving the T-Bird tomorrow. Hopefully the code stays off.

If it's just a clogged O2 sensor or something, would using a fuel additive or other cleaning agent such as SeaFoam help out any?
 

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Not if it's bad enough to toss codes.

But O2s aren't that expensive, IMO ... NTK downstream is under $31 at RockAuto and well worth considering, even if you have to buy the socket.

IMO, of course!

RwP
 

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How about replace both?

"Doctor, Doctor, I have this pain in my left shin!" "It's just old age." "I don't believe that, the right shin is just as old and I don't have the pain there!"

That's a joking way to say that if ONE side is failing, the OTHER side isn't too far behind, at the age of these cars.

THAT said - unplug one, and see what code pops up. Someone else posted s/he thought it was the driver's side, so I'd unplug that one and let it kick the new code. That should tell you what bank THAT one is on.

RwP
 

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Yea, $31 isn't that bad. I can do that.

Now, which sensor is "bank 2"?
Like I said earlier, and this time I verified so I'm positive, BANK 2 is the DRIVER'S SIDE.
 
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