I searched the Seafoma thing and I am not sure how to go about it. I have thoroughly cleaned the maf, and it has a complete tune. We did it when we replaced the intake gaskets. Plugs, oil, trans fluid/filter, valve cover gaskets, new hoses, radiator flush, pretty much everything. I am at a loss on this one. I havn't had it near redline at all. I never gun it off the line. I am lost. It sounds like your shaking a rattle can anywhere above 1000. OUCH!
There is a bit in the video, that advises you to stall your engine by flooding it with Seafoam. I would use caution and simply have a friend shut it off as you pour in the liquid as you don't want to hydro-lock your engine.
id say it's air/fuel deficiency, which can be caused by many things.....(assuming the maf is working properly) it could be related to the fuel pump on its last legs, clogged fuel filter, malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator....possibly even malfunctioning upper O2 sensors would cause the rattle-can noise due to improperly delivered amounts of fuel
so tell me, has this car been neglected in any way? do you know the history of the car? (mainly concerning the fuel system)
All I know is that the car, when I bought it $500, had been a daily driver with high miles. The check engine light was on. I ran an OBDII and it coded as ineffecient exhaust flow, a dead cylinder, and no egr. I don't know if it has been neglected. It doesn't appear to be considering the shape the car is in and the shape of the engine when we did the routine maintenance. It appeared to heve relatively knew intake gasketes. It seemed to be pretty well taken care of for the most part. I'm concerned that it may have been overheated. The kid said it got hot once. I am not getting any fuel pump whine like I got on my mustang prior to the pump going. I am at a loss.
well if the gaskets were not seated right, they could very well be introducing an airleak into the cylinders which will cause the pinging you describe
i'd say, get a fuel pressure regulator and make sure you get 39psi with the vacuum line disconnected from the FRP...if that checks out then most likely the FPR and pump are good
other than that, since you've tuned it up for the most part, the only thing i can think of right now would be to get a real-time scanner hooked up to it and have it diagnosed by someone who knows how to interpret the data coming off the computer (concerning the short and long term fuel trims as well O2 sensor data)
and when you say no EGR? what exactly do you mean by that? EGR cannot be removed without a pcm flash/chip tune (otherwise the check engine light will always be on)
The check engine light stays on now even after I repaired the ineffecient exhaust flow and the dead cylinder, the EGR was still throwing a fault. The light stays on. That is what I meante by that. I didn't do anything with it. I am not gonna worry about replacing it because we don't have emmisions here and I was told not to bother if I didn't have to. As far as the misfire theory, every plug is good, correctly gapped, they have the correct wire going to them, and they all are getting fire. You can hear the valve(s) tick on the drivers bank when you manually blip the throttle under the hood. It sounds terrible.
ticking doesn't always indicate valves tapping....are you sure you know the difference between a pinging sound and a valve tapping sound...sometimes they can sound somewhat similar if you've never heard them before....this is the main reason i was leaning towards a pinging/knocking type diagnosis
it could also be lash adjuster tick if they are clogged up with sludge
I'm pretty sure that I know the sounds, but I don't have hat much experience, therefore I am going to say I do not know the difference to be safe and to keep from looking arrogant . That's why we have these threads right? Is there a way to load a video into a thread? If so, I will get a vid that captures the sound, that way you guys could maybe make some conclusions. It is strange though, now that this has happened, I am losing oil pressure under hard braking, on inclines, and in 90 degree turns. No loss while driving though. The oil is full.
you can load a video onto a hosting site such as youtube or photobucket, and just provide the link here
ah, so now that brings new light into the subject....sounds to me like maybe the oil pressure may not be making its way up to the lash adjusters (at least not at a sufficiently high enough pressure to keep the adjusters pumped up) perhaps causing partial collapsing, which may cause the cam follower to bounce on the lash adjuster tip
sounds like some oil passages may be clogged with sludge....it wont hurt to dump 1/3 to 1/2 can of seafoam into the crankcase right after you change the oil and put on a new motorcraft FL820S filter.....i know my '04 F150 had a bit of a ticking when cold, which i know was not pinging.....so far after two oil changes and about 1/3 can of seafoam into the oil each time, its about 90% gone
but definitely get a video up so the sounds can be heard
I have been chasing a weird cutting out issue on my 95 cougar 4.6
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cruising at 25-30 mph if i decide to wot it will shift down to 1st and right before 2 it cuts out and free revs.
it will go...
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OK guys, my dad just recently handed over his 94 Cougar XR7 to me. BUT there's a problem. He says that one day when he started to car up, when he put it into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car began to bog out, and then it just shut off.:confused: When he started it back up for the 2nd...
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Please chime in... kinda wanna MAX this car out
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