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pi intake, heads, engine, cams, are all popular posts. might want to be a little more specific. though i know all that hardware should raise your shift points around 400 rpm at least.
 

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Mine was about 5400 wot 1-2 and 5000-5200 wot 2-3, if I were to tune it though I would go with whatever lonnie and darrin recommend
 

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than again... theres no telling just how off the stock rpm gauge is :rolleyes:
 

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As long as you are running the stock TC you are limited to 5400 rpm. Depending on each application the actual EEC command will vary but the shift needs to be completed by the rpm dictated by the TC's limit.
 

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When mine shifts my gauge reads 6200 rpm.I had a snap on scanner on it and hit it at WOT and the scanner was reading alittle over 6k on the 1-2 shift.

My suggestion is if you have a 11.25 convertor than push the shifts as high as you can.Lonnie is great for tunes so go through him.

When he tuned my car he was just as concerned as I was about the shift points and what not.It was all about the afest tune for the car with getting the most performance out of it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am running a Dirty Dog 2800 RPM stall convertor and Allans tranny. Since my old engine had over 200K I kept the shift points at about 4800. I now have a fresh engine, with ported heads and PI cams. I was thinking 5600 - 5800 would be about right.

I have a Dave Dalke (XR7Dave) tune that was done for the old engine.

Thanks for the tips.

Tony
 

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why guess at what shift points make the car the fastest when you could invest in an SCT Xcal 2 and datalog the actual acceleration rate of the vehicle by testing various 1-2 and 2-3 shift points? This way you can see if a shift point is too high or too low (both of which would cause a greater loss of acceleration than the optimum shift point).
 
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