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Discussion Starter #1
ok... here the scoop.

got forced off road at 50mph teh other day... got t-bird aligned and tires balanced.. but still have a problem. when i get up near 60mph, the car feels like it shudders every 3 seconds.. smooth smooth {shudder} smooth smooth {shudder} etc etc...

also, i get than annoying ka-clunk whenver i shift the tranny and when i take off. looked at diff bushings, they are fine but i am swapping in the MN12perf ones when they come in, also doin the tranny mount from them.

what could be causing this shudder when driving?? also, i don't know how to describe this but.. on driver side i was looking when car was on lift. above the spring is this little bar that is connected with a bushing and bolt to the shock/strut? the bushing is crapped out, ripped up, etc.. but it is still a solid connection.... what is this called??

oh, and there is this bushing attached to frame at very back of differential, where do i get this.. looks like this albeit a little exaggerated: \_/ and from side like this \__| then diff. here.

confused...

James

oh and where can i get a camber kit for the bird? inside of tires are wearing down fast.. and its only 3000 miles.. need to get this adjusted.. big time..
 

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bent rim probably or the driveshaft

I'd call my insurance agent and be like yah I was forced off the road and now my car's pulling and making clunks that it never did before will my insurance cover the diagnosis from the dealership as well as the parts of just the parts.
Trust me Frontend parts ain't cheep rims are even more spendy(factory 15" rims run like 300 each WTF!!!).
I think the bushing you describe is the upper A arm which is servicable only as a complete unit as far as I know(750 to do it @ Dealership 190 for the part)
Your tire wear could be caused by several things.
1 camber
2 Toe
3 bent lower control arms
4 bent shocktower/spring
5 bent shock
6 bent rim
7 fast cornering
fixes are
1 check for worn/damaged bits then replace them & do alingment
2 adjust
3-6 replace bent part with new one
7 slow down around the corners.
 

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Hmm... Is it like....

Does it feel like an out of balance tire? I have the same problem on my car in the right rear. I know it is not tires, because I've put on new tires since it started. It's been aligned also. I even used Dan G's stock wheels and tires to test it and it still did it - so it's not a rim. I'l try anything.
This is happening and my car has never been run of the road!

Thanks,
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it isn't the rim... it was checked...

but how could it be the driveshaft all of a sudden?? now it shudders every few seconds between 45-65mph instead of near 60

again. anyone know where to get a camber kit?

James
 

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I would look at tire/rim/axle problems. For instance, if 2 tires are flatted, the vibration will add or cancel depending on the relative position of the flats, which will change rhythmically due to the slightly different rolling diameters of the different tires.
 

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No camber kits

our cars arent Mcpherson, (the shock isnt the pivot for the steering) like the stangs , the camber is adjusted on the lower control arm , so we dont need plates
 

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Discussion Starter #7
um.. no?

well.. the rear's do not have a camber adjustment, only toe. you need to buy an aftermarket adjustable camber kit for it. the tire places sells them for $60 a side...

James
 

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My experience with this has been that our wheels need special attention when mounting. Even though you had an alignment done, if the mechanic just impacted the wheel bolts you could have problems. Try remounting your wheels. make sure the air tube lines up with the "painted" lug (as close as possible), clean the hub surface and the inside of the wheel surface. Then torque your wheel nuts in a star pattern first to 50 - 60 ft/lbs. then 70 - 80 ft/lbs. I know that if the mechanic just throws the wheels on and grabs an air gun I'm gonna have vibration. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #11
just asked again....

and they said ok, fine, it adjusts a little bit, but if running wider tires, or lowering the car any, you need to get a camber kit that allows you to adjust more than stock allows..

james
 

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Time to find another place to have your alignment work done at...
 

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that thing in the front sounds like you are describing the ball joint. it is like a { thing that the spring and shock go up through the middle of. the spindle is connected to it? that sounds like what you are describing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i have went to different shops

i went to tire kingdom, tires plus, pep boys, and a few private places and they all said alignment was perfect in the rear.. yet the insides are all wearing, tire kingdom and tires plus both said if running the wider tires or lowering the car, i get neg camber which causes inner tire wear...

james
 

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wider tires does nothing to camber. lowering does yes. is your car lowered? a bad ball joint causes bad camber in the front also.
 

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JamesD:
Go to this page and read closely how to check your camber. You can make sure if it is correct or not your self. If not, it tells you what to do to adjust it, if needed. Mine has 255/45/17 tires on it, and is lowered 1 1/2 inches with Eibach springs, and mine is "0" degrees for max tire life. If you adjust the camber, make sure to loosen the nuts on the the adjusting bolts first.

Read it 3-4 time to make sure you understand it completely, then check yours, and adjust it. It is an eccentric cam adjuster, that will rotate to the max point, then keep going back to minimum.

Since the adjustment is on the upper arm, you want to make it as long as you can to get to 0 degrees. Just watch closely, and stop it at the max, snug the nut, and lower the car and recheck it. If you get both side set like it tells you, you are done, and only need to tighten the nuts. If you can not get it to 0 degrees, you will need to modify your upper control arms like it shows. There is NO kits for these cars.

http://www.geocities.com/mn12bird/
 
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