TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
936 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm on the lookout for some replacement side mouldings for my 94 T-bird. Just saw these listed on Ebay. Anyone had any experience of them? Are they any good? I can't decide whether chrome side strips would look at good, or just stupid.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=161597127574
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,527 Posts
It's hard to tell if that's a full sized trim replacement or if it's a smaller strip that goes above/below the existing trim... :confused:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
936 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah that's what I thought. I messaged the guy, and from his reply, I think its a replacement for the original.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,669 Posts
That looks to me like just generic chrome body side molding pieces. It definitely isn't an original part as there are 5 distinct different styles of moldings from 89-97, and none of them looked anything close to that. If you buy that, it will look cheap and tacky, and you will be disappointed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
936 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes I think you're right. I think I'll hold out for some original type.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
936 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just a quick reply to this thread I started in 2015.

4yrs after my accident in 2014 I've finally fitted the newly repainted door trim!
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Tbird Bob

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
936 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The next job will be this mess:
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,669 Posts
It looks like the clearcoat failure is confined to the roof, which is good. Just remember, it has to be stripped to bare metal, primed, and then painted, but since the roof is pretty much a completely flat surface, it should be easy to paint. Also take all the trim pieces off before doing anything so you can get the paint stripped all the way to the edges of the panel and not risk damaging the trim. As long as it is only the roof, you should be able to do the whole job over a weekend.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,017 Posts
Stupid question I think I asked you before, Mikey, but there's no way to re-clearcoat these is there?

All the clearcoat is off my red car, evenly. I swear if I could put a topcoat on it, I think it would look ok.

But I'm thinking that's a waste of money if it comes right back off... :(

Also; The Tbird you painted looked great! (When you were here this spring)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,669 Posts
No, once the clearcoat peels off, the color underneath gets exposed to the UV rays and starts breaking down. In theory, you could scuff it up and clearcoat over it again, but once the clear is on there, the nice new shine would make it painfully obvious how uneven the color underneath is. As for the 97 I drove down in, I sprayed that with plasti-dip, not paint. The idea behind it is you don't have to do any prep work other than washing it, and when you get tired of it, it peels right off like a wrap. It looked OK at first, but it is definitely starting to have some issues like peeling and lifting around the edges and tight curves, and the pitting in the clearcoat underneath it is starting to show through. That was never meant to be anything other than a temporary solution though, since the E9 underneath had faded so bad it was literally pink, and I'm just not comfortable enough to drive a pink car! I'm glad I did it for the experience, but in retrospect, I should have just done the prep work myself and dropped it off at Maaco to have them spray it. It still wouldn't be perfect, but the plasti-dip was almost $500 and 2 days of work by the time it was said and done, so it probably wouldn't have cost much more, to have it sprayed in single-stage enamel, and if I had spent that 2 days doing the prep work myself, it likely would have held up a lot better.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,017 Posts
No, once the clearcoat peels off, the color underneath gets exposed to the UV rays and starts breaking down. In theory, you could scuff it up and clearcoat over it again, but once the clear is on there, the nice new shine would make it painfully obvious how uneven the color underneath is. As for the 97 I drove down in, I sprayed that with plasti-dip, not paint. The idea behind it is you don't have to do any prep work other than washing it, and when you get tired of it, it peels right off like a wrap. It looked OK at first, but it is definitely starting to have some issues like peeling and lifting around the edges and tight curves, and the pitting in the clearcoat underneath it is starting to show through. That was never meant to be anything other than a temporary solution though, since the E9 underneath had faded so bad it was literally pink, and I'm just not comfortable enough to drive a pink car! I'm glad I did it for the experience, but in retrospect, I should have just done the prep work myself and dropped it off at Maaco to have them spray it. It still wouldn't be perfect, but the plasti-dip was almost $500 and 2 days of work by the time it was said and done, so it probably wouldn't have cost much more, to have it sprayed in single-stage enamel, and if I had spent that 2 days doing the prep work myself, it likely would have held up a lot better.
That's exactly what I was looking for, Mikey!

Thanks. :)

You told me that was Plastidip; I really wouldn't have known if you hadn't mentioned it, at the time.

It has a semi-matte, not quite glossy look, and people like that these days. :zdunno:



Another on topic question: Who makes the best E4 paint?

I'd like to stay factory colors, just to not worry about stripping the whole car, of looking at a mismatch every time I open the door.

BTW, Duplicolor does not actually match that color, for touch ups at all, lol.

Or maybe my red has just faded that far. But it does not look pink, thankfully.


I know someone who paints cars, but IDK what paint they use, and I've seen a few they did.

I think I can do that well; "Run City" is not a travel destination I want, lol.


I need to paint a bike as well, so I'll practice on a gas tank I can strip easily if I don't like it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,669 Posts
If you are doing the paint work yourself, I personally like PPG. If someone else is doing the work, it really doesn't matter what paint they use. Once it is cured, it is all the same, as long as they use at least a half-way decent clearcoat. The differences between good expensive paint and cheap paint lie in how good their color matches are, how well they cover, the amount of metallic in metallic colors, and then differences in how well they lay out, flash times, etc. Personally, I learned long ago that it isn't worth my time to try to save a few bucks with cheap paint, because I'll usually wind up using twice as much to cover, and I'll be aggravated the whole time. Also, if you are looking to practice, a bike gas tank probably isn't the best place to start. You want to practice on something large and flat, like a hood or roof. Pieces with lots of curves and tight areas are much harder to get nice even coverage everywhere without any runs or dry spots.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Grog6

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,017 Posts
Thanks, Mikey!

I actually have two damaged hoods, so I guess that's where I practice.

I damaged one, and the other was messed up when I bought it; my body guy said, WTF?!, so I found a good one that's Now on the car, from Spattered, shipped from AZ, lol.



You rock man. :)

Come hang out at the pool sometime next summer; it's closing this week. 72 degree water today. :)
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top