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Discussion Starter #1
Well, the newest mn12 I purchased, I bought it, and the description b4 buyiung it said that the door woul not close, and needed new hinges, a 750$ job, I guess...:rolleyes:

So, I went and looked at the car, the inside of the door panel, where the handle is, was all torn off, the outside of the door had stress marks from being slammed, there was a dent under the door handle from a knee pushing on the door.

Well, I went and looked at the car, and took it for a test drive, to see how it was, and, they said well, you can't go far cuz the door don't close...

Well, I went down the road, and, I rolled the window down, and, lifted the door, and closed it, latched perfectly. So, I went back, with a smile on my face and said I will take it:)

I got the car home, with the door closed, and, todfay, fixed the door, costed me 15$ in parts, new door hinges and bushings, that is it. Took 1 hr wiht my brother to fix them.

Man, that was cake, I was searching, and people made it a drawn out process of removing the door, and the hinges and bla bla bla, 4-5 hours from what I read.

All it took was a pallet jack, a die grinder, a punch, a hammer, a 1/2" socket, and a large screw driver.

Needless to say, my door closes.

I figured it was time to help the search feature work and to let people know you do not have to buy new hinges and take the door off, wow, that would suck...

And, since threads suck w/o pics...here she is....




 

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Very nice looking car!

Door sag is a huge problem on our cars, though easier to fix than most people think. Sure worked out well for you, congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the compliments!

Yeah, I had helped my friend do pins and bushings on his 83 stang, it was a 4+hr ordeal with him loosing his temper and his dad yelling at him, and the trips to and from the parts store, but, wow, this was cake, I am about to go "re-aim" the door, and then I have a diff striker I would like to put in it;)

Did I post the part number for the pin I used? Here at the partstore, they have a section for door pins in it, and it is for ford, the part number is 38140, The brand is "M" and says help on the package.. and that comes with a clip, 1 pin and 2 bushings, it was like 7$ for 1 set.

Here are the dimmensions if anyone needs them:
pin is .342x3.57"
E-Clip is .342"
bushings is .347"x.480"x.295"
 

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Hey man, thanks for the info. It looks like you got a sweet deal there. After everything I heard about fixing the hinges being the hardest thing you could possibly do, I was not that into trying to fix mine, but a body shop wanted $350 just for the drivers side. So get this- I go home and make a couple shims out of .030 brass that I got from these really ugly light switch plates, jacked up the door, and slipped two of them under the lower hinge. Bingo! No more sag! It took longer to make the shims than to put them in. The door sag was really starting to bum me out, too. It made the car seem like a piece of junk, so fixing it for free was really nice. I'd still like to do it right because it still makes a gronky noise when I close it, but at least the shims will tide me over till I get brave enough to try the pins.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #5
George said:
Hey man, thanks for the info. It looks like you got a sweet deal there. After everything I heard about fixing the hinges being the hardest thing you could possibly do, I was not that into trying to fix mine, but a body shop wanted $350 just for the drivers side. So get this- I go home and make a couple shims out of .030 brass that I got from these really ugly light switch plates, jacked up the door, and slipped two of them under the lower hinge. Bingo! No more sag! It took longer to make the shims than to put them in. The door sag was really starting to bum me out, too. It made the car seem like a piece of junk, so fixing it for free was really nice. I'd still like to do it right because it still makes a gronky noise when I close it, but at least the shims will tide me over till I get brave enough to try the pins.

George
When you do the pins, make sure you have an extra body to help ya maintain the door, it was very easy to do, one of the simplest things. I think the hardest thing on these cars was the crank sensor on my sc.....ug...
 

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I need to fix my door hinge as does my friend. Can you explain just how you did this?
Did you unbolt the hinge from the door first, then sort of pivot the door out of the way to get to the hinge to body bolts?
I tried getting a socket on the hinge to body bolts by opening the door and sticking a U joint on an extension between the door and fender, no dice, no room.
How did you do it?
A full explanation for a first timer would help a lot of us .
Thanks.
Danford1
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Take a die grinder, or, a dremel, grind the top of the door pin off, it is the one what is mushroomed.

Then, put something under the door to support it, and start to drive out the pins, like a punch, or, something like that.

Have your buddy rock the door up and down while you drive them out, it seems to help them come out better.

Once you got the uper and lower out, put a rag between the door and the fender, then, open up the door more, careful, there are wires in there that go to the car from the door.

Then, take a shallow 1/2" socket and take the part of the hinge off of the door. Then, then you got that part out, drive out the bushinggs, and carefully tap th new ones in place.

Then put the hinges back on, and carefully put the door back on, and sloylw drive the pins thru, you will need a buddy or 2 to help with getting it back on the hinges.

Drive the pins in ALL the way, make sure your using the new pins and not the old ones. You may beed to re-aim your door at this point, and snug the hinges down.

When it came to re-aiming the door, it was pretty close, but, I think the shop the prev ownser brought my car, bent the door a litle bit, or, it was bent from slamming, so I had to put a floor jack under the door, and tweak it up a hair. I took a not-so worn striker from my sc and put it in this car, this made it latch a whole hell of a lot better.

If your in the central MN area, you pay for the parts and bring a dremel, I can assist you in it, I used a die grinder at work to zip off the top of the mushroomed heads, I don't have an air comressor here, or, I would have done it all here...
 

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Screw you and your nice paint Scotty! :D

I am starting to get a bit of door sag with my 93, probably from all the *******s slamming it like it weighs a ton. I barely even push on the driver's side and *click* closes every time. My passager's side is beginning to not sit flush with the car however, and makes funny noises when you close it. I think I am going to start to forbid people from riding on that side if they can't lern how to close a stupid car door.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like you need to replace the hinge pins and replace the striker and it should work just fine, those people who slam your doors so hard, return the favor, I did it to my woman once, and thought I was going to break her glass, now, she knows better, there is nothing more then I hate when some retard reefs the door so hard your whole car shakes...
 

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Just got mine done today. The body man who worked on my car last noticed the door sag and mentioned it. I said yea, but the guy at Ford said it was about a 500 dollar repair. He smiled and asked if I would like to have it done for 50. I said of course! He told me what he would do, described what you just did. So when I had an extra 50 I took the car in. while he had it I asked him to replace the outer handle on it to, (cheap plastic s**t). No problem had it done in no time. He was very careful lining the door up so that it fits perfectly. No wind noise, nothing. Just a solid "thunk" when the door is closed! All for 70.00.
 

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I used a drill and a chisel to take my old pins out and i never unbolted the hinge from the door, I just put it on jack stands pulled it back a little and put the brass buchings in lined the holes back up dropped in the new pins and i was done.
 

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The only problem with this (if you let it go too long like me on my Exploder:zbash: ) is the holes that the pin goes through will become an egg shape instead of round. After a while with the new bushings will start to take on the egg shape too and you will end up replacing them every few months. I finally ended up just replacing the whole hinge. I also have to replace the upper hinge on my Exploder soon. That is going to be a B***H.
 
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