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Discussion Starter #1
Well I managed to acquire a teksid aluminum block and rotating assembly recently. I am going to building this engine over the next month and a half. My plans are currently going to be:

Teksid block
stock 95 mark 8 rotating assembly
notched pistons
stock pi heads (rebuilt by MHS)
comp 270 cams (degreed)
2 vavle oil pump and pickup
Stock thunderbird oil pan
Electric water pump
30lb injectors.

This is a budget build as you can tell. My goal money wise is less than 3000 into it from oil pan to valve cover (no intake) with all parts and oem gaskets. I will be reusing all my current boltons such as the headers and intake plenum. I will post up my expense sheet when I get closer to being done so people can get an idea of costs associated with this build. My goal time wise is to run a 12.99 on my current setup and then drop this in and run low 12's. I am not installing the new one until I hit a 12!;)
Here are some pics of my work so far.

Dirty block still assembled



Block and rotating assembly cleaned for $40.00



 

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Discussion Starter #3
nice cleaning, what ya do? pressure wash? hot tank?
Hot tank on base. 7 hours later.... It was 10 bucks an hour but the guy said no one else asked for it so he left it on. I need to polish the pistons but everything else is perfect.
 

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Wow, what a difference. It's beautiful.
 

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I have to do that to my Mark motor; I call that the "Quaker State" look. :(
 

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I'm glad I never use Quaker State then.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I wish I had thought of this at first but here is my price list for the build. It might help other people. It is useful to note that I am not reusing anything from my old engine so you can do things ALOT cheaper if you reuse your stock stuff. If a mod gets bored and wants to put it under my first post, that would be cool

Part / Price
BLOCK/TIMING COVER/REAR SEAL/PISTONS CLEANED $40.00
PI WATER PUMP NIPPLE (already had) $0.00
BRASS FREEZE PLUGS $22.53
OIL PUMP $54.00
TENSIONER ARM BOLTS FOR TEKSID $27.30
TENSIONER ARM CURVED (LEFT???) $17.91
TENSIONER ARM CURVED (RIGHT????) $17.91
TIMING CHAINS $82.86
HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT $0.99
HARMONIC BALANCER WASHER $3.07
CONNECTING ROD BOLTS $32.00
SHIPPING FOR ALL PARTS PLUS GEARS $29.93
PI HEADS COMPLETE, COMP 270 CAM, CRANK GEARS $1,200.00
PISTON NOTCHES $150.00
95 T BIRD OIL PAN $42.50
AEROSPACE ELECTRIC WATER PUMP $290.00

Total to date: $2011.00

I will add the rest as I go. All parts are oem ford except the head hardware, cams, and adjustable crank gears
 

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PI heads aren't really gonna be stock, they probably have about 15CFM more flow on the intake side and 5-10CFM more on the exhaust side. Really tight fitting bronze guides, radius valve job, intake bowls ported and blended, and there is actually a small curve for the short side radius rather than a shelf. Also they are getting a used set of Manley Nextek springs. See if you can find a MarkVIII oil pan, you need that extra quart of oil.
 

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Looks like a great build. I'm taking notes. LOL

Which valve springs are you going to use with the COMP 270's? You know the stock springs aren't going to work.

I recommend the Manley Nextek's.

N/M I see Nick is building the heads for you with the Nextek's.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
PI heads aren't really gonna be stock, they probably have about 15CFM more flow on the intake side and 5-10CFM more on the exhaust side. Really tight fitting bronze guides, radius valve job, intake bowls ported and blended, and there is actually a small curve for the short side radius rather than a shelf. Also they are getting a used set of Manley Nextek springs. See if you can find a MarkVIII oil pan, you need that extra quart of oil.
Thanks for the heads up. I knew there was more to them but I was feeling to lazy to post the specs from your website and check my old PM's. I'm going to do some more digging for a mark 8 pan. I just wanted something that I could put on so dust doesn't get inside the motor. I will change it out before the engine is installed. I'm sending you a PM about the other parts I needed and the piston notches.

By the way everyone, Nick at MHS is an awesome person for help, advice and parts for any build you are doing.
 

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this is interesting, keep this going , i am doing the same project
So am I, and if I was to guess, there are a lot more doing this same thing that haven't spoken up yet! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So am I, and if I was to guess, there are a lot more doing this same thing that haven't spoken up yet! lol
Everyone wants to do it. My wife finally gave me the go and I got two weeks off of work to do this. Hopefully I can finish in that time.
 

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Everyone wants to do it. My wife finally gave me the go and I got two weeks off of work to do this. Hopefully I can finish in that time.
Two Weeks?!?!? If you can pull this off in two weeks, I'll buy your first full tank of gas. I can never get a machine shop to work quickly for me, and i'm pretty sure I've only pulled an engine rebuild off in two weeks one time.

While I was in college, my mother wanted me to rebuild her Dodge truck engine; she had been hauling a trailer around the US and it was a flat out tired 318. I rented a storage unit in West Palm Beach, FL where I pulled her truck in, yanked out the engine and tore it apart. I had the block cleaned up and the heads 3-angled & shaved at a local machine shop. When I got the parts I ordered (an Edelbrock Performer intake, Isky cam, Holley 650 carb, plugs & wires), the cam was the wrong specs. It was a way longer duration than I wanted (this engine is going into a 4 wheel drive truck, not a circle track car). But guess what? I only had two weeks, so I put it in anyways. It worked out ok, the truck had all kinds of power, my mom loved it, and I pulled off an engine rebuild in two weeks (the ONLY time).

So good luck!!! I really do hope you pull it off and all goes well for you. Please share your experiences along the way with us!!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Two Weeks?!?!? If you can pull this off in two weeks, I'll buy your first full tank of gas. I can never get a machine shop to work quickly for me, and i'm pretty sure I've only pulled an engine rebuild off in two weeks one time.
I do have a couple advantages. This engine will not need any machine work whatsoever. The heads and block will already be done before the start of the two weeks. I also have a spare of everything so I am not pulling the old engine. I am just building the longblock on a stand in 2 weeks.

My dad has a full machine shop anyways if I did need something. :)

The only thing that has potential to hold me back is getting a wrong part but Nick is an hour from the house.....I should be good.
 

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Most engines that run dino oil look like that. When you tear down an engine that runs synthetic, they tend to look much cleaner, especially if you run an oil that's formulated for diesel engines. They usually have more detergents in them and help keep the parts clean.

Pete
 

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I do have a couple advantages. This engine will not need any machine work whatsoever. The heads and block will already be done before the start of the two weeks. I also have a spare of everything so I am not pulling the old engine. I am just building the longblock on a stand in 2 weeks.

My dad has a full machine shop anyways if I did need something. :)

The only thing that has potential to hold me back is getting a wrong part but Nick is an hour from the house.....I should be good.
lawton,OK is more than a hour from orlando
 

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Discussion Starter #20
lawton,OK is more than a hour from orlando
I'm taking the engine back to florida with me over thanksgiving. My dads house where I'm doing the build is an hour from Orlando.:D

Auto Alchemist, the compression ratio will be around 12-1.
 
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