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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Well I have been working on the nipple for a long time. I have been soaking it with PB Blaster, wailing on it with a hard hammer, and tried twisting it with vise grips. I do not have a torch of any kind. I can not buy a proper one because of where I live. What is a good torch I can buy at a department or autoparts store that can do the job?
 

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They sell propane torches for plumbing use at any hardware store. As mentioned many times in this thread, put a socket on there and be careful that you're hitting it straight on. What got it for me was sticking a long punch down the center to straighten it back out - it must have loosened it a little because the next time I hit it, it came right out.

One good thing - I was looking at the old nipple, and there was not one bit of rust on the surface, so it's just stuck in there, not rusted on.

Al
 

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Maybe a little late for some in this thread, but this is a pretty good step by step on the PI intake swap. I had a hard time getting the tube behind the water pump out as well. Persistence won in the end.

I installed a used PI intake from a Crown Vic in the junkyard. I used the heater tube from the Crown Vic without any issues although I did lose the sensor for the ATC in the process which wasn't a big loss to me.
 

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That's why we said it like 5 times, lol!

That video above is pretty good, but I would never drill and tap plastic for a brass heater hose connection on a used Crown Vic manifold. Brass fitting in plastic is a trouble spot.

Al
 
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That's why we said it like 5 times, lol!

That video above is pretty good, but I would never drill and tap plastic for a brass heater hose connection on a used Crown Vic manifold. Brass fitting in plastic is a trouble spot.

Al
Agreed, I’ve said it before but I think the best solution to the bungless Explorer sourced intakes is to punch out the freeze plug on the driver side head and add a DOHC crack pipe to feed the heater core. It should be more reliable too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Just put the intake in. Not quite done yet. Just wanted to verfiy that if I torqued it to the right spec of 18ftlbs.
 

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When I did my first pi swap, I bought a kit with all the important parts from MHS. Nick was one of the members here; but passed away a few years ago. His family still owns part of it IIRC.


Getting the waterpunp nozzle out without destroying it is the hardest part of using JY parts, like the second one I did.
You DO lose a bit of hp below about 2000rpms, but the peak gets pushed up quite a bitfrom 4200 to about 5200.
Realize the TorqueConverter starts to baloon about 5000RPM,So overrevving a stock setup can seriously break stuff.
That said, Lazarus has boinced off the rev limiter many times. Watch the motor mounts;if the driver's one goes bad the engine will tip up, stuffing the lever that operates the TB blade into the hood, holding it open while you either drive really well, or break stuff. Rod sold me a nice chain kit that I installed across the engine mount, so that **** will not happen again. :)
I broke 3 wheels, but missed the school bus. The engine at wfo WILL push you forward, even with both feet on the brakes.:eek:
BTW, I'd do the pbr brake swap first. :)
I'll post pix when I replace the piston that's knocking, lol.There should be wear on the thrust bearing for sure. (balooning pushes the whole crank forward, which is not good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Holy ****! What is a good torque converter I can get so that doesn't happen? The water pump nipple was installed awhile ago. And I only started to replace the intake because my stock intake cracked and I was not going to waste money on a doorman. I am not rushing to do a tune in it and get power yet. I just want to drice it more so I can see what I got and know the limits of the car first. I will look into the pbr brakes. I need to replace my front rotors anyway.
When I did my first pi swap, I bought a kit with all the important parts from MHS. Nick was one of the members here; but passed away a few years ago. His family still owns part of it IIRC.


Getting the waterpunp nozzle out without destroying it is the hardest part of using JY parts, like the second one I did.
You DO lose a bit of hp below about 2000rpms, but the peak gets pushed up quite a bitfrom 4200 to about 5200.
Realize the TorqueConverter starts to baloon about 5000RPM,So overrevving a stock setup can seriously break stuff.
That said, Lazarus has boinced off the rev limiter many times. Watch the motor mounts;if the driver's one goes bad the engine will tip up, stuffing the lever that operates the TB blade into the hood, holding it open while you either drive really well, or break stuff. Rod sold me a nice chain kit that I installed across the engine mount, so that **** will not happen again. :)
I broke 3 wheels, but missed the school bus. The engine at wfo WILL push you forward, even with both feet on the brakes.:eek:
BTW, I'd do the pbr brake swap first. :)
I'll post pix when I replace the piston that's knocking, lol.There should be wear on the thrust bearing for sure. (balooning pushes the whole crank forward, which is not good.
 

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A word about the factory plastic manifolds; they crack due to the twisting from the alternator bolts to them.
Removing the driver's side bolt will prevent the twisting.
I broke the factory original doing 5k rpm shifts on a curvy road, lol.

I bought some parts here which included a CV alternator pulley with an overrun clutch, so it doesn't torque it at all.
I still haven't got the 200A CV alternator running; it boils batteries. :) Ford has better engineers, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
No wonder. I wonder why it took this long for me to hear that but will save me a lot of head ache. Good luck on that alternator.
 

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The manifold bolts have larger heads IIRC, so boy accordingly.
BE aware hardware store bolts are much weaker than auto bolts, in most cases; but it shouldn't be a problem on a manifold, lol.
the bolts are 6mm fine thread which is 1.0mm spacing on the threads.
 

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What I did that simplifies the heater hose situation is switch the inlet/outlets of the heater core, and use the section of the stock hose as a 90° elbow to a hose coupler and you can then run a straight hose to it. Works great

View attachment 42248

View attachment 42249
So let me see if I understand this, you use the two different stock heater hoses, the heater outlet closest to the passenger side is hooked to the water outlet on the back of the intake, and you just cut the 'L' off the other heater hose, and hook that to the PI coolant tube?
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
A stud is broken off in the head from the previous owner where the valley tube is supposed to be secured. I do not feel right having it loose like that. Any ideas?

The broken stud could also be a plug.
 
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