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Discussion Starter #1
Whats going on is fan motor runs constantly, CC is dead, no AC nothing, no lcd display either, or voltage guage not working. When I replace fuse and turn key on guage works until the fuse blows again which is quick. 95 LX 4.6. Any help on fixing this issue? I searched awhile couldnt find exact matches.
 

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eec is bad, usually.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK I'm in the dark here...EEC? What do i need to know changing it? Is that the computer? Also if that's bad can it clogg cats?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So this is also causing the blower fan to run constantly and the climate control dead? I appreciate your help and yes this baby is running way rich. Where would be best place to buy the EEC?
 

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KANGEL,

Sorry about your loss.

The blower motor receives power from the a/c-heater function selector switch (in dash control panel). So since the blower motor is on constantly and the controls don’t work, sounds like either the rotary switch or the whole panel is shot.

I’ve never needed to replace one but it looks like there are several on-line sites with vehicle type search features for buying a EEC / PCM.

In addition to the dash cluster, the 5A RUN fuse protects lots of circuits, including heated back window switch, engine coolant level sensor, windshield washer fluid level sensor, air bag diagnostic monitor and ABS monitor. Could be something shorted out on one of those causing the fuse to blow.

Good luck with those repairs.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jim this is going to be a costly thing it sounds like. Since the car is running way rich I'm leaning more at a starting point of eec and I don't know where I could get a new climate control box at. So on the eec I just unhook battery and plug and play or is there something else I should do?
 

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Might not be the climate control box; if the variable speed control for the EATC/SATC is blown, it'll run the fan on high all the time.

I'd look at that before I did the control.

But, if it qualifies, you can also call up the self test to make sure that the climate control is working right.

Here's how to run it:

Code:
Perform the SATC System Self Test using the procedure that follows. Record all trouble codes displayed during the self test.
The self test can be initiated at any time with any resulting trouble codes. Normal operation of the system stops when self test is activated.
To enter self test, position the blower control knob at AUTO and the Function Selector Knob in either PANEL or FLOOR.
Then, press the COOL and OUTSIDE TEMP buttons simultaneously and press the WARM button within two seconds. The display will show a tracer segment going in a counterclockwise direction in the center of the display window during the self test.
When the self test is completed, Trouble Codes for any fault will be displayed in the VFD Window. If no faults are found, all display segments will illuminate.
To exit Self Test and RETAIN all Trouble Codes, press the COOL (BLUE) button.
To exit Self Test and CLEAR all Trouble Codes, press the OUTSIDE TEMP button and then, press the WARM button.
After exiting the Self Test, the ignition should remain ON for at least 25 seconds to allow the temperature blend door actuator to calibrate.
During normal operation, each intermittent trouble code will be deleted after 80 ignition switch cycles.

And here's the meaning of the codes:

  1. DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
    TROUBLE CODES​
    DETECTED CONDITION​
    ACTION​
    24​
    Fault in blend door calibration during self test​
    Refer to Temperature Blend Door Actuator Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test A )​
    25​
    Intermittent fault in blend door calibration​
    Refer to Temperature Blend Door Actuator Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test A )​
    30​
    Self test indicates in-car sensor shorted​
    Refer to In-Car Temperature Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test M )​
    31​
    Self test indicates in-car sensor open​
    Refer to In-Car Temperature Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test M )​
    40​
    Self test indicates ambient temperature sensor shorted​
    Refer to Ambient Temperature Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test J )​
    41​
    Self test indicates ambient temperature sensor open​
    Refer to Ambient Temperature Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test J )​
    42​
    Ambient temperature sensor intermittent short​
    Refer to Ambient Temperature Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test J )​
    43​
    Ambient temperature sensor intermittent open​
    Refer to Ambient Temperature Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test J )​
    50​
    Self test indicates sunload sensor short​
    Refer to Sunload Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test K )​
    53​
    Sunload sensor intermittent short​
    Refer to Sunload Sensor Diagnosis ( Pinpoint Test K )​
A 88 code means test is done.

And from the FSM, what to do if the blower motor runs on high all the time for the SATC:

Code:
D1 CHECK BLOWER OPERATION
Turn key OFF. Disconnect the harness connector from the left rear of the SATC Control Assembly. Ground Pin 23 of the connector (Circuit 246 (P)). Then, turn ignition key to RUN. Blower motor should not operate.
Does blower motor operate?
Yes
GO to D2 .

No
REPLACE the SATC Control Assembly.

 
D2 CHECK BLOWER SPEED CONTROLLER
Turn ignition key to OFF. Reconnect harness connector to SATC Control Assembly. Disconnect Circuit 246 (P) from BSC Pin 3 of 3-wire connector and reconnect connector to BSC. Then, jump Pin 2 (ground) to Pin 3 of BSC. Turn ignition key to RUN. Blower motor should not operate.
Does blower motor operate?
Yes
REPLACE A/C blower motor speed control.

No
SERVICE Circuit 246 (P) for open.
RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow, thanks for help, you guys are sharp. I will try this test and get back to ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well I can't do the test cause the fuse is blown, keeps blowing when key turned can't see digital panel, cc dead. How does the cc come out? I know where there's a bird at junk yard, would getting the eec out of it be wise also?
 

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RwP - Cool, I didn't know the system had a self-test. Did mine and got "all display segments" as expected.

KANGEL - what are the symptoms on SATC power? Is it powered momentarily until the RUN fuse blows or do you never see power to it? Is the 5A PANEL LPS fuse blown too? The same tool to remove the radio will work on the temperature control panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Soon as I turn key on it pretty much blows, I see the voltage Guage move and lcd active a split second. I might add I just noticed the ignition switch is bad also, you can turn it way past stopping points. Have a new one coming. That could be the problem ehh with the satc? Only the run fuse blows.
 

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I just pulled the run fuse on mine on my '95 LX 4.6. The blower motor automaticallly runs on high, with the required default to the windshield, but I still have control of the output (floor, vents, windshield, recirc). No display, no voltage gauge while running, just like yours.

Next I would check the fuse panel, verify that the fuse connection is grounded, then maybe try it with the PCM disconnected. I don't think there is an easy answer to finding the short, just potentially a lot of logical probing trying to find the circuit that's grounded that's not supposed to be grounded.

Not saying the problem couldn't be because of the sloppy key, but in the two times I've changed my ignition switch there weren't any related electrical problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
New ignition switch same issue. Jim which 5A fuse you referring to PANEL LPS, that the one under the dash or hood? It blows the one under the dash quickly I can see voltage gauge work and LCD on CC split second. Unhook PCM next I guess.
 

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I pulled the 5A RUN fuse in the fuse junction panel, the one under the dash, driver side, and that caused the heater control unit to give the same symptoms yours is giving: blower motor on high, no display, with key on. Reinstalled that and then pulled the other one, the 5A PANEL LPS one, heat control unit functioned as normal.

I haven't taken a hard look at the wiring diagrams yet, but suspecting that if the downstream side of the RUN fuse is grounded when you test with a multimeter, then disconnecting the PCM and testing again might help narrow down where the fault is in the circuit. Don't forget to disconnect the battery whenever you are playing with electronic circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Jim could you look at your wire harness where the hookup for your MAF is, theres another hookup comes out of that harness and tell me what this round plug hook up goes into? He pulled my air filter box and has a k&n style on there now but I noticed there wasn't anything to hook that plug into. I'll be unhooking pcm to try next on the short issue. Thanks for your help.
 

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I'll check it out, I believe it's the Intake Air Temp Sensor. I'm not familiar with K&N setup but if it's allowing unmetered air in downstream of the MAF sensor that's a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ran into an old post on here member name was Arywolf, he had the exact problem I'm having with the run fuse. Described all symptoms to a tee. Unfortunately nobody had the answer, but with that being said, for it to be a short would have to be a coinsedence being the issue, makes me think it's hardware gone bad somewhere.
 

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Or a splice gone bad. Or wire insulation gone bad.

Yes, the Intake Air Temp sensor connector is round. Two wires. Gray and Gray w/ Red tracer. Located in the harness close to the MAF sensor connection. I checked the K&N website and their instructions say to use the stock MAF and IAT sensors and plumb them into the K&N stuff. If the IAT sensor is not connected I'm guessing you should get a check engine light for P0112, low voltage IAT sensor. I checked the check engine light system with the 5A RUN fuse out and the check engine system light still works. Maybe someone instead spliced the IAT system wiring into the Ambient Air Temp sensor that drives the HVAC control unit temperature display? Might that account for the 5A RUN fuse blowing? [disclaimer: I don't have any experience with this, I'm just guessing based on info from the Service Manual, Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual, and Powertrain Control / Emission Diagnosis Service Manual]
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's just hanging there, nowhere to plug it in. Thanks for your help Jim, I'm just not good at this kind of stuff.
 
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