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It's just logic. A series of yes/no tests. You know anybody with a OBD-II code reader / scanner? You could check the IAT sensor temp with that. The IAT sensor provides input to the PCM which then based on that and other factors like the MAF sensor controls spark and fuel injector pulses. Theoretically if the PCM is seeing a way too low temp from a bogus IAT sensor then it would push the fuel injectors as if it was a very cold start. But there is also a rationality test worked into the PCM logic. So even if something is way off the system should run at least mediocre. Borrow a code reader / scanner and check it after the engine has sat for a several hours and the coolant has cooled to ambient temp. If the Intake Air Temp and the Engine Coolant Temp are not in the same range then something is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I need a bird to get parts off of. I don't have anywhere now to plug in IAT sensor assuming it was plugged into air flow assembly to throttle body since the K&n or whatever brand he put in there has nowhere to plug in. Struck out what I need from local bone yards. BTW, don't know if it's burnt out but no CEL is on..lol, runs like crap with rich smell.
 

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There's some on ebay but you could get by without a stock air cleaner assembly; the instructions on the K&N website call for just fastening the IAT sensor to a simple L-shaped bracket (included with the kit) and attaching to the MAF sensor bolt holes. One could easily fabricate something to place the IAT sensor in close proximity to the air filter inlet.

The system test should show you a Check Engine Light when you first turn on the ignition and start the car. Good point, the bulb could be burnt out or might have been removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Jim the IAT sensor has the end coming out of harness unplugged....where does it plug into? No other end to hook too.
 

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Not sure I understand. Are you saying something else is unplugged that we have not yet already discussed?

Did you verify that the CHECK ENGINE lamp lights when you first start up the car and it goes through its On Board Diagnostic test?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
CEL bulb must be fried, key turned to on no light on with others. Jim review above some you will know what hook up I'm talking about, thks.
 

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If no bulb lighting, then it's probably either burned out because it was on all the time or someone removed it because the warning light on constantly was annoying.

Check engine light bulb does not need to be working to get the diagnostic codes from the data link connector below the glovebox. Let's presume plugging in a standard code reader to the data link connector would indicate a problem with the Intake Air Temperature sensor circuit.

Presuming whoever installed the K&N setup didn't bother retaining the IAT sensor, you can buy a new IAT sensor at your local auto parts store for under $20, plug it in to the hanging connector, and zip-tie the thing somewhere in close proximity to the air filter: so the intake air temperature sensor is sensing the temperature of the air going in to the air intake. That might help with the running rich problem.
 

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That's the preferred design. Intent is to measure the temperature of the air in close proximity to the MAF sensor which is measuring the volume of air entering the engine. The PCM uses those two inputs to control the amount of fuel discharged by the fuel injectors. The more accurate the inputs the better the outputs.

Whichever solution works best for you... make it happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Jim tomorrow going to the junk yard and pull the pwm blower control and see if I get lucky with that being the problem with Run fuse and fan on high, they have 95 lx 4.6 and it has satc too.I'm 65 and it's just been to hot, got a break this morning being cooler, pulled out the BSC. The part number is f5lf19e624-AB, if the AB letters are different on junk car could I use it if you know? I've seen this part on Web with those letters different rest are the same.
 

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I don't have any experience replacing modules, but from what I've read, a service part with a later suffix code (-AB) should work as replacement for an earlier suffix code (-AA), but they are not backwards compatible.

Good luck with the part swapping. Note that most likely the fan on high is a result of the RUN fuse being blown, not that the fan is causing the fuse to blow.
 

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Update- there are few absolutes in this world, so it may not be true that in this case the service part is not backwards compatible. Just that a subsequent suffix represents a design change. There is information on-line with examples of different suffix codes on Ford parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
The bone car didn't have one anyways. I just waiting for some cooler weather, car is sitting right in the sun. I'm going to check everything the run fuse has on its circuit. Not sure where the Airbag Module is located. I did go out with the BSC out of car replaced fuse, of course no fan but voltage gauge and CC lcd was good until fuse blew again...lol.

I unhooked climate control too, so for piece of mind it's not those two components. I'll get it eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
What's weird though is the fan or the cc are not on the Run Fuse Circuit but affects the fan running on high.
 

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That's SATC fail-safe mode. Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards require that when control to the blower motor fails, it fails with the fan on high with air directed to the windshield. So if it fails you are still left with defrost, the most critical safety aspect of the system. Just your luck that whatever component has failed and is grounding out the RUN circuit is also on the same fuse as the SATC. It's just a question of findng that bad splice, exposed hot wire, failed sensor, failed relay, failed module....
 

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Finally looked at the wiring diagrams.

wiring.jpg


Power goes from the Primary Junction Block (fuse panel) through the Integrated Control Module then into the wiring harness.

location.jpg


Connectors C242, C294, and C295 connect the wiring to the ICM.

connectors.jpg


So you could narrow down the location of the fault by disconnecting these connectors and checking one at a time to see which one blows the 5A RUN fuse or grounds out the fuse socket? Then probe that connector to find a pin that's grounded but shouldn't be? If they all do then it's the Integrated Control Module?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks Jim, looks like I've got several things to try, just need to get there. Keep ya posted, appreciate your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
You have your fuse panel and right behind them is this black part with a clip on each side. I undid the clips and i tried pulling it down, it moved, but the thing looked like there were plugs plugged into the top of that which I couldnt pull down far enough to unplug. Im assuming those are the c242....c295...c294. So tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Unhooked all 3, only one plugged in at a time, other two unhooked and blew fuse every time. As far as interior in dash I see no burnt wires. I'm losing. I'm not real savy with wires and a M-meter, which I do have. The PCM wouldn't affect any of this would it?
 
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