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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a Sniper wet kit for my 97 4.6 cougar and I'm wanting to spray a 75 shot to it. My first question is, do I have to pull any timing out to only spray a 75? I think I only have to pull timing when spraying 100+, but I just want to make sure. My second question is does anyone know what jets to use for a 75? I've looked online everywhere and in the forums, but come up with nothing about the Sniper kit. Surely some of you guys out there use this kit :confused: My kit came with a diagram that tells you which jet combinations to use according to my fuel pressure, but it doesn't tell me what shot I will be spraying, It's pretty dumb if you ask me. But I hope I can find someone that has one of these kits or can help me out! Thanks in advance guys
 

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PostSlut
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I personally pull 2 degrees of timming for every 50 shot when using 93 octane.

I used the 5115 kit back when I had the kit on my 4.6L....so, not sure on your pill settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I personally pull 2 degrees of timming for every 50 shot when using 93 octane.

I used the 5115 kit back when I had the kit on my 4.6L....so, not sure on your pill settings.
Well that sucks..my chip just shipped today from DD today and I didn't have him pull any timing :(
Thanks for the input, I hope someone on here is running a sniper system, because there isn't ANY info at all anywhere on the pill size!
 

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PostSlut
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Well that sucks..my chip just shipped today from DD today and I didn't have him pull any timing :(
Thanks for the input, I hope someone on here is running a sniper system, because there isn't ANY info at all anywhere on the pill size!
I will be honest though.
I learned from not knowing.
At first when I had just a 75 shot, I didn't change my settup at all....stock platinum plugs, stock fuel pump, etc.
Ran really good for a many of bottles.
I then upped it to either a 100 or 125, with a chip(that added timming), and a couple bottles later, I melted 4 spark plugs in cylinders 1, 4, 5, and 8. I also messed up the vlaves on those cylinders as well.

knowing now what i didn't then, I would pull timming.
maybe you can get one of those Steeda timming adjusters.

oh, and call up NOS who I believe sells your system, and ask if they can give you a more definitive awnser on the pill sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will be honest though.
I learned from not knowing.
At first when I had just a 75 shot, I didn't change my settup at all....stock platinum plugs, stock fuel pump, etc.
Ran really good for a many of bottles.
I then upped it to either a 100 or 125, with a chip(that added timming), and a couple bottles later, I melted 4 spark plugs in cylinders 1, 4, 5, and 8. I also messed up the vlaves on those cylinders as well.

knowing now what i didn't then, I would pull timming.
maybe you can get one of those Steeda timming adjusters.

oh, and call up NOS who I believe sells your system, and ask if they can give you a more definitive awnser on the pill sizes.
Yea, I know all about not pulling timing. I scattered my super coupe last year from not pulling any :(
Steeda timing adjusters. I'll have to do some research on that, never heard of it. Thanks for that! And I did call them, unfortunately, they emailed me a pdf on the same chart I already have :mad:
 

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Its better to pull a degree or two. Help save your motor.

Since you got a wet kit, cant help ya there. Call the company and see what they say.
 

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A 75 shot isn't much and you can run it really safe. Run some NGK TR6 plugs gapped at about .030" and make sure you only spray between 900-1050 psi. It's best if you run a window switch to only spray between 2800-6000 rpm. Or set it to stop spraying just before a shift, especially if your car doesn't shift that quick. I've seen N2O puddle up on slow shifting cars and cause some pretty bad backfires.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A 75 shot isn't much and you can run it really safe. Run some NGK TR6 plugs gapped at about .030" and make sure you only spray between 900-1050 psi. It's best if you run a window switch to only spray between 2800-6000 rpm. Or set it to stop spraying just before a shift, especially if your car doesn't shift that quick. I've seen N2O puddle up on slow shifting cars and cause some pretty bad backfires.
Thanks for that info. I've sprayed this car before with this kit, but wasn't happy with it. I thought it was a nitrous problem at first, but after a few times, I noticed that my times were slower because my car wasn't shifting correctly when spraying. The person that owned the car before me had a junk 94 trans installed in the 97 car :mad:. Didn't find that out until I pulled it and seen the junkyard writing on it. So long story short, I swapped to a t-45 and put a Bullitt intake with a tune in place of that restrictive npi one and I feel I'm ready to try the bottle again ;). So you don't think I will have to retard timing for only a 75 shot? That would be good news considering I just got a chip from DD and didn't have him retard the timing. And I'm guessing you don't have any info on which pill sizes to use for a 75? I've looked everywhere for that info and don't feel I've found accurate info because they weren't for the sniper kit specifically
 

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You should be fine as long as you run those colder plugs. The only chart I have handy is for Zex kits. They rate there kits at crank power vs. actual rear wheel horsepower and so they jet stuff a little smaller compared to some of the other brands like NX. But a Zex 75 shot is a #26 fuel and a #40 N2O.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Figured I would go ahead and post a pic of the chart that came with my kit in the owners manual. Maybe I'm just not reading it correctly, but it seems this chart only tells me which nitrous jet to use with fuel jet according to my fuel pressure. This also may be helpful for anyone who doesn't have this chart.

[/URL][/IMG]

The way I'm reading it is that if I was going to use a 38 nitrous jet, I need to use a 28 or 29 fuel jet considering my fuel pressure is around 34 psi. I just don't understand why they would give me all this info, but not add a hp rating :confused:
So do you think I would be safe to just run the smallest one on this chart? (38 nitrous/29 fuel)
 

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West Virginia Chapter Director /, MA Drag Race Te
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I'd go with the 38 Nitrous 28 fuel jet. The best thing to do would be to get it on a dyno and start at those numbers to see what the AF's look like since you have little information.

If you can get a dyno set up with the car try the 26. Make sure you have a tune with a bit of Timing pulled out in either case. Stay with whatever jets they recommend and the bottle pressure they recommend. They do that for a reason. Each system is a little different. There should be estimated HP numbers there somewhere based on the jetting you are using.

I'd recommend an aftermarket Fuel pump and regulator before doing this.

Also, your fuel pressure should be around 40 PSI.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'd go with the 38 Nitrous 28 fuel jet. The best thing to do would be to get it on a dyno and start at those numbers to see what the AF's look like since you have little information.

If you can get a dyno set up with the car try the 26. Make sure you have a tune with a bit of Timing pulled out in either case. Stay with whatever jets they recommend and the bottle pressure they recommend. They do that for a reason. Each system is a little different. There should be estimated HP numbers there somewhere based on the jetting you are using.

I'd recommend an aftermarket Fuel pump and regulator before doing this.

Also, your fuel pressure should be around 40 PSI.
I'm probably mistaken on the fuel pressure then. It's been a few months since I've hooked my gauge up, but I thought it was around 34psi while idling, I'll have to test that tomorrow to be sure. I agree that a dyno would be the most accurate way to see what shot it is, but with college and work, it's hard to find time to do that:(. As far as hp numbers, I know for sure they aren't in my book unfortunately. I've read it front to back twice, dumb if you ask me, but nothing in there! Thanks for your help :). I will definitely see about putting it on the dyno.
 

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Contact the company directly. They should be able to supply you with that information. They should also be able to tell you about what timing to pull on what shot and fuel requirements and bottle pressures they use for testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Contact the company directly. They should be able to supply you with that information. They should also be able to tell you about what timing to pull on what shot and fuel requirements and bottle pressures they use for testing.
Since I had a day off today, I figured I would quit procrastinating and get a hold of the company like you said. They emailed me the exact info I needed :)

N / F
40/28- 75 shot
51/34- 100 shot
65/38- 125 shot

But these numbers were at 43psi fuel pressure, I believe a little bit higher than our cars run. Think a few psi would make a huge difference?

They also recommended that I pull 2 degrees of timing, but said it wasn't necessarily required as long as I used colder plugs. I will probably go ahead and pull 2 degrees, even though I'll have to send my chip back to DD and get him to re burn it for me. Thanks for the the help 1MTNCAT!
 

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West Virginia Chapter Director /, MA Drag Race Te
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Since I had a day off today, I figured I would quit procrastinating and get a hold of the company like you said. They emailed me the exact info I needed :)

N / F
40/28- 75 shot
51/34- 100 shot
65/38- 125 shot

But these numbers were at 43psi fuel pressure, I believe a little bit higher than our cars run. Think a few psi would make a huge difference?

They also recommended that I pull 2 degrees of timing, but said it wasn't necessarily required as long as I used colder plugs. I will probably go ahead and pull 2 degrees, even though I'll have to send my chip back to DD and get him to re burn it for me. Thanks for the the help 1MTNCAT!
Our fuel pressures run around 40 PSI. Those couple poounds will make little difference. An adjustable regulator, as I said before, will insure that along with a pump strong enough to support it. The stock stuff will work but to be sure you need to have better stuff in place, ie Aftermarket fuel pump and adjustable regulator. The tune should be backed off a couple degrees at the higher levels (100-125). Its not just colder plugs but heat on the stock pistons. Retarding it some will help with that.

An option, if the chip will allow, is to pull the octane pin in the wiring harness which will pull a couple degrees of timing out of the car. Something to ask DD about.

If its not set up for TPS switch activation then you do NEED a window switch for about 3000 RPM activation. Monitor bottle pressure and keep it where it should be per their instructions for optimum performance. When pressure drops so does power.

Make sure at the end of the run after coming off the throttle, to deactivate the arming switch. Otherwise you may forget and you will have MAJOR issues.

Street tires on track with nitrous = USELESS! Get drag tires.

Drag tires on track with traction and a good driver = PRICELESS!!!

Beat on it or lose fuel pressure = BOOM!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Our fuel pressures run around 40 PSI. Those couple poounds will make little difference. An adjustable regulator, as I said before, will insure that along with a pump strong enough to support it. The stock stuff will work but to be sure you need to have better stuff in place, ie Aftermarket fuel pump and adjustable regulator. The tune should be backed off a couple degrees at the higher levels (100-125). Its not just colder plugs but heat on the stock pistons. Retarding it some will help with that.

An option, if the chip will allow, is to pull the octane pin in the wiring harness which will pull a couple degrees of timing out of the car. Something to ask DD about.

If its not set up for TPS switch activation then you do NEED a window switch for about 3000 RPM activation. Monitor bottle pressure and keep it where it should be per their instructions for optimum performance. When pressure drops so does power.

Make sure at the end of the run after coming off the throttle, to deactivate the arming switch. Otherwise you may forget and you will have MAJOR issues.

Street tires on track with nitrous = USELESS! Get drag tires.

Drag tires on track with traction and a good driver = PRICELESS!!!

Beat on it or lose fuel pressure = BOOM!!!!!
It is set up on a window switch, so no problem there. As far as aftermarket fuel pump and regulator, That's a little out of my budget right now since I'm trying to finish up my super coupe build. But I do have a wide band in the car, so I'll know if I have any issues with that for now until I can afford the pump and regulator.

About pulling the octane plug, I'm pretty sure no car past 95 had one, but I'll do some research on that, because that would be so much easier than re tuning it.

Traction will not be an issue. I have a set of Mickey Thompson's to fix that :D, because I already found out...

street tires on track with t-45 and 3.73's = USELESS!! lol
 

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street tires on track with t-45 and 3.73's = USELESS!! lol
Drag tires on the track with 3.73's on spray launching with a T-45 = More USELESS!! BYE BYE Halfshafts!

You'll figure it out !!!!! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Drag tires on the track with 3.73's on spray launching with a T-45 = More USELESS!! BYE BYE Halfshafts!

You'll figure it out !!!!! ;)
Oh no!! So you think I'll have enough hp to break them? :( I thought only the high horsepower guys did that. Guess no stalling it up on the line for me!
 

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Oh no!! So you think I'll have enough hp to break them? :( I thought only the high horsepower guys did that. Guess no stalling it up on the line for me!
Hook, torque and instantaneous driveline lock up under manual load. You rev, hook and launch = toasted halfshaft, rear or driveshaft U joints.

Plenty of us automatic guys have done it as well just not as often generally. I've seen it more times than I can count.

You were forewarned!!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hook, torque and instantaneous driveline lock up under manual load. You rev, hook and launch = toasted halfshaft, rear or driveshaft U joints.

Plenty of us automatic guys have done it as well just not as often generally. I've seen it more times than I can count.

You were forewarned!!! :)
Thanks for the heads up :D. You gotta pay to play! Nothing I can't upgrade I guess;)
 
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