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Discussion Starter #1
First off, I'm glad to say that my bird is flying high again after over 7 months of being out of commission. It feels so good to be back in my own car again!!! :D

But I have some questions.....

What happened in the first place is that the engine got hydrolocked and bent some valves in both heads and bent 3 rods in the engine. I had a local shop fix all of this for me (I won't get into why it took 7 months, but not all of it was the shop's fault....).

Here are my questions:

1) I had them replace the engine mounts with the ones from mn12performance.com while they had the engine out. Not sure if it's related to this or not, but now my engine sounds a little louder than it did before (kind of a deeper growl from the engine vs. a pretty quiet engine before the "incident"). It's not a bad thing, it actually sounds like what (in my opinion) the engine should sound like from the factory. I'm just curious to know if it may be the new, firmer engine mounts passing on resonance from the engine to the chassis that's making it sound like this? (the old mounts were still the OEM ones, a.k.a. 9 years old....probably quite a bit softer than the new ones....).

2) My shift points are now different from what they were before. It seems that now the engine is getting to a higher RPM before shifting when I'm at WOT, but at partial throttle, everything is normal. WOT is actually just about right for the 1-2 shift (~4500 RPM), but on the 2-3, it hits the same RPM range (just barely over 4500), and revs there for 2 to 3 seconds before shifting. What could cause something like that to happen? It did not do this before. I have checked the tranny fluid and it is full (I was sure to run through all the gears to let the fluid circulate, and topped it off again....).

I did not have them put Merc5 in it, because hopefully before too long, I will be doing the J-mod, and I already have purchased the Merc5 for that project.

3) Tomorrow, weather permitting, I will be replacing the differential bushings, crossmember mount bushings, and the tranny mount with the ones from mn12performance, and replacing the U-joints. Are there any other "while you're in there" things that I can do? And anything that you can recommend to make installing this stuff any easier (besides having a car lift....)?
 

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Hey,

Tell me how the U-Join goes, I think that’s what the problem is in my tbird when the wheel starts shaking at random times at high speed, but it might be another join who knows, I’m still a newbie at thunder birds.

Thanks,
3ATME
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well, i replaced the differential bushings, and it made a hell of a difference on the vibration that i used to have.....i'd say it took out about 90% of the vibration.

i should be able to finish the trans mount/crossmember mounts/u-joints tomorrow and it will hopefully take out the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, it's not totally gone, but it's a hell of a lot better than it was....and i wasn't getting vibration at random times, it was pretty much always there.

it's really not much of a surprise, seeing as how the bushings were 9 years old....
 

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Thanks,

but right now money is rather tight as the body work in the front right area, the rack and pinion gear (i think) was bent back too much when I hit a curb so now I need to manage to replace a tie rod and go to a body shop.
 

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ok well i was under the impression birds should shift wot at 5k or more....but maybe its diff for 94-95s. mine with the j-mod done still shifts at 5k and above, but i havea 96...what sorta engine work was done bc when ever you open up an engine a little more it will obviously make more sound...so what all was done?
 

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You can replace the inner tie rod yourself for 30 dollars. And you can replace the u-joints yourself for 30 also. It's pretty easy to do too.
-Thomas
 

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Wow! How about a smaller picture.

Anyways, so you're saying the area it mounts to is bent? In other words, you bent the k-member? Or you just bent the inner tie rod? I can't really see everything in that picture being as it's so friggin huge but it's obvious the inner tie rod has been bent. If you also bent the k-member, I would have them straighten out the k-member and then replace the inner tie rod yourself.

-Thomas
 

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The inner tie rod is fine but the outer was bent, the reason its like that is that its just laying on the rod right now, but anyways, I guess the K member is where the tie rod bar atually sits on (and where the sway bar connects to?)

So, the K-Member was bent I think

You should have seen the original size, 2093 x 1804 ;P
 

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you're telling me that rod in the picture is straight? Sure looks bent to me!
 

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JoeyICU said:
ok well i was under the impression birds should shift wot at 5k or more....but maybe its diff for 94-95s. mine with the j-mod done still shifts at 5k and above, but i havea 96...what sorta engine work was done bc when ever you open up an engine a little more it will obviously make more sound...so what all was done?
My 95 shifts at 4400 with the J-Mod at Mild/Gear Change...
 
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