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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Apologies for putting this in the wrong forum, if a mod would move that'd be great. In my defense, i simply hit the "interior" header of a speaker thread i had searched.

Unfortunately, it seems the threads with any info are all pushing 20 years old and referencing the old site with broken links. For reference, researched not verified, the factory speakers are 6x8 but 5x7 fit also. 5.25, 6, 6.5 will fit with brackets, and 6x9 can be shoehorned.

Here's the list of toys I just picked up. Sadly, they only had the single pair of 6x8 and jvc doesn't make a 6 or 6.5. I chose these because I've had good luck with jvc decks in the past, I liked the features (HD radio and radio info) and aesthetics, and ultimately, 50% off up to two pair of jvc speakers. This fit right into my plan to make the car sound better on the cheap and later i can buy an amp and better speakers, a sub located in the spare compartment has crossed my mind too. Reviews on the speaker claim that they are quite impressive for their price point (50% off in cart). Not looking for anything super impressive, just want the stereo to sound a bit fuller (and louder) more akin to a newer vehicle. Factory sound system in the fiancés 2010 Milan is astonishingly good.



Through my digging i stumbled into a raging debate over which is superior, round or oval speakers. I personally have always understood that bigger is generally better, everything else being equal, crutchfield claims the same. Ive never had a vehicle that would fit ovals in the doors before without hacking, so cant say ive ever A/B tested this, but generally have run 6x9s in the rear deck.
Was wondering if anyone has managed to stuff a small 4 channel amp under the dash in front of the center console. Looks like a nightmare to get it in there but seems to be roomy enough from my memory of how big a 200w 4 channel is.
Also would like to know if the newer radios, circa 94+ are interchangable with the previous "knob style" radios. The radio in my 92 F250 has given up the ghost and would like to put the tbird radio in there. I prefer the knob style, but not going to complain. Radio reception has dropped off horribly, but the volume does whatever it wants, which is usually nothing, making it unusable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After a lengthy conversation with myself, i also pulled the trigger on a Kenwood KAC-M1814 45w x 4 amplifier. Keeps with the cheap but well rated and well-known name brand theme. I was going to wait and just buy a better one with better speakers in the future, but the thought occurred to me that i could use this in my pickup if i upgrade the car, since it has speaker level inputs.
 

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you need a 5 channel amp, or a standalone sub amp.
 

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I use Pioneer decks in both my Tbirds and my work van because I use bluetooth pandora radio cause where I am Fm radio is horrible they play the same 4 or 5 songs all day and flood commericals but nevertheless what I did was mount my amps to the underside of the decklid so because of the weight added I also had to add a lift support like you would have on your hood to the decklid so it wouldn't shut on my head I used 5x7s in the front doors and in the rear I used 6x9s so I had to trim the metal out a little bit but all in all it sounds good. now in the SC I have an insane system I used 6.5's in the doors I added 6.5s to the center console added tweeters to the doors put 5x7's in the rear and more 6.5s behind the rear seat up where the rear window meets that panel and 2 12's in the trunk with 3 amps to run all that also put in 2 eq's one for the front speakers and one for the rear but all in all i've had decent luck with pioneer decks
 

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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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I use Pioneer decks in both my Tbirds and my work van because I use bluetooth pandora radio cause where I am Fm radio is horrible they play the same 4 or 5 songs all day and flood commericals but nevertheless what I did was mount my amps to the underside of the decklid so because of the weight added I also had to add a lift support like you would have on your hood to the decklid so it wouldn't shut on my head I used 5x7s in the front doors and in the rear I used 6x9s so I had to trim the metal out a little bit but all in all it sounds good. now in the SC I have an insane system I used 6.5's in the doors I added 6.5s to the center console added tweeters to the doors put 5x7's in the rear and more 6.5s behind the rear seat up where the rear window meets that panel and 2 12's in the trunk with 3 amps to run all that also put in 2 eq's one for the front speakers and one for the rear but all in all i've had decent luck with pioneer decks
Do you know where the period (".") and comma (",") keys are on your keyboard? Do you know what they're for?
 

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Nobody wants to read wall-of-text posts that are migraine-inducing. Use proper punctuation if you intend to continue to contribute to this board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
He had a couple in there lol.

Ive never had anything but problems with pioneer stuff, i would put a rampage radio in there before pioneer. I didnt know how big of a mess it would be to add 6x9s or i wouldve put them in the back and 6x8s in the front, something that i semi-regret not doing. How much trimming is it exactly, and does the grill and side panel all have enough room? I didnt want to trim the cab only to find the panel hits, to trim the panel and grill rubs, etc. I suppose i can go ahead and order them and put the 5s in the pickup if its simple.

I already have the gas shocks on the deck lid, mine has the spoiler and with any kind of breeze it comes down and whacks ya in the noggin.
 

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There is a way to tighten up the torsion bars for the trunk lid. I did that a number of years back on the T-bird and whenever I click the remote release, the trunk pops right open, even with the spoiler.

I have an old Kenwood eXceleon HU in the T-bird and it's decent but lacks a decent EQ. The old Boston S-85 speakers I installed have a lot of piercing distortion around 2-3 kHz and are really muddy around 500 Hz, and I've been thinking about replacing them. It's just not a good time to be in the market with all the supply chain shortages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is a way to tighten up the torsion bars for the trunk lid. I did that a number of years back on the T-bird and whenever I click the remote release, the trunk pops right open, even with the spoiler.

I have an old Kenwood eXceleon HU in the T-bird and it's decent but lacks a decent EQ. The old Boston S-85 speakers I installed have a lot of piercing distortion around 2-3 kHz and are really muddy around 500 Hz, and I've been thinking about replacing them. It's just not a good time to be in the market with all the supply chain shortages.
I thought about trying to do that, but i didnt want the trunk springing open against the hinges. The kenwood was my second choice in deck.
 

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I had a 300 watt amp under the rear window/cowl area. It was the perfect width that it didn't affect the opening. Of course the opening is a touch better on the cougar, too. One thing I always heard was don't put the amp by the speaker, so it can't rattle solder joint loose within the amp. Also, it is best to run power and audio/speaker wires on the opposite side of the car. So, if you do an amp in the back, run power down one side of the car and audio wires down the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sound logic, probably to cut down on interference. Im hoping to plop the amp somewhere under the radio. Found a reference to someone else doing this in an old post from 2003 or so, would really cut down on running wires. Ill see how it sounds before i decide to buy a sub, not looking for crazy bass, just well rounded sound. Hopefully with the speakers being driven to their fullest ill be satisfied.
 

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There is a way to tighten up the torsion bars for the trunk lid. I did that a number of years back on the T-bird and whenever I click the remote release, the trunk pops right open, even with the spoiler.
In theory yes: put the torsion bar to a tighter setting by moving it to the next hook.
Problem is, I haven't found a way to do that without serious risk of injury. I guess one would have to come up with a special tool (?).
 

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In theory yes: put the torsion bar to a tighter setting by moving it to the next hook.
Problem is, I haven't found a way to do that without serious risk of injury. I guess one would have to come up with a special tool (?).

Like the one they show in the factory shop manual? It works great.

 

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I just used a big set of channel locks when I did it, IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok guys, get me off the fence. Amp wont get here till wednesday anyway (i work wed-sat nights). Should i return the 5.25" rounds and get 6x9? 5.25 F and 6x8R or 6x8F and 6x9 R. Im more of a midrange guy, i like full cabin sound, not just the front. I generally turn down trebel on most radios, my ears are pretty sensitive in the high ranges.
 

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I personally prefer component speakers, round mid w/ a separate tweet as opposed to a coaxial set up.
With that said I have and probably will again, run round components up front and oval coaxials in the back.
I like seperates too. The problem with MN12's is that there's really no good place to put a tweeter in a separate set up. Believe me, I looked!

See this thread for my stereo build details.

 
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