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Discussion Starter #1
Where does one go for parts when your slave cylinder fails? Ford Dealer? Aftermarket? Anyone know where I might find the OEM part number besides on the cylinder itself? ;)
 

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rustyul said:
Where does one go for parts when your slave cylinder fails? Ford Dealer? Aftermarket? Anyone know where I might find the OEM part number besides on the cylinder itself? ;)
The factory clutch is made by LUK. PepBoys has the factory replacement kit for the SC which is around 215USD. Raybesto makes the slave cylinder which is 105USD at PepBoys. If you shop around you may be able to find cheaper. I use PepBoys because I got the part in 2 days instead of 5 to 7 days like most other auto stores.

Since you know that you need a new slave cylinder, you might as well change out the complete clutch and throw out bearing......along with getting the flywheel re-surfaced. I would take your driveshaft and have it rebuilt (new U-joints) and get it balanced. I've recently done everything I've stated above.

With the driveshaft being balanced and the flywheel getting re-surfaced, it ran me around 140USD from a trusted driveshaft shop......well worth it, if you ask me. On a side note, I did all the work myself, so I didn't pay any labor :D

Calvin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I'll be doing all the labor myself also. I wasn't going to replace the entire clutch unless it appeared to be really worn or otherwise non-servicable. I don't know for a fact that the slave cylinder is leaking, just that I'm loosing fluid somewhere over a period of 4-5 days.

There is no Pep Boys where I live, or within an 80 mile radius. Know of any other place?
 

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I believe that PepBoys has a website that you can order from.

Raybesto Slave Cylinder Part Number -- SC37897

Since you know that it's leaking, you will still have to pull the tranny. My suggestion earlier was based on just the fact that the tranny will have to be pulled. So since your already in there, go ahead and replace what you can. I would suggest if your going to replace the clutch, go ahead and get a rear main seal to replace since the tranny is dropped.

The exhaust can be dropped in one section. Unbolt from the manifold on both sides then just remove the exhaust from the hangers......BAM......the exhaust is dropped.

Let me know if you need anything else!

Calvin
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I'll get the rear main seal since I believe it is leaking slightly. I'll inspect the clutch for any problems and severe wear. It doesn't slip right now and I really don't have the extra $200-$300 for new clutch components right now. I do have a slight vibration that I can't track down. Maybe something out of balance in the clutch mechanism or components. If that turns out to be the case I guess I'll have no choice but to replace it. I know it's a pain, but if I get another year before I have to replace the clutch, I'll probably be in better shape financially, and I'll be able to replace it then.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Glen,
When you are ready to do the job. Let me know, I will drive up and give you a hand changing out the clutch.....

Getting the flywheel resurfaced and getting the driveshaft rebuilt and balanced would be the right thing to do since you will be dropping out the driveshaft to remove the tranny.

I lost the slave cylinder in my tranny, so since I was there I replaced the complete clutch assembly along with what I mentioned above. I install a complete pumpkin with 3.27's along with this job.

The ONLY problem I encountered was I had RUSTY starter bolts. I have to grind off the head of the lower bolt in order to remove it. But other than that, It was really simple job to do. Why pay someone else over a grand for something that you can do, is what I told myself when I got frustrated.......


Cheers,
Calvin
Slidell, La. right outside New Orleans
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Drive all the way up from NOLA? Are you crazy? It's about a 6 hour drive. BTW, it's one of mine and my wife's favorite vacation spot!

Anyway...I feel completely comfortable doing the job myself, but I truly appreciate the offer. If you just want to come up for the shear pleasure of the experience, then by all means! :) I'm going to have to do this job over time, so it won't be possible for you to be there for the dis-assembly. I'll let you know about assembly and maybe it will work out for you to come up. If you go to all that trouble, I'll have to invite DD 94 4.6 and some of the other locals. I haven't met any of them, but I've been looking for an excuse to get together!

I think I'm going to look for a set of 3.08 or 3.27 gears and swap them out instead of the complete pumpkin. Alot less shipping costs if I can't find one locally.

Sound like a plan might come together!
 

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Well, as a rule of thumb, I will usually help another SC'r out by offering what I can. Since I've recently done this job, I thought I would at least offer you a hand and/or experience.

Let me know if you need anything.

Calvin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you...that's very kind.
 

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Here's the URL for SPEC clutches. They also have alum. flywheels.

http://www.specclutch.com/specMain.html

I just put a SPEC Stage III clutch & alum flywheel in my '89 XR-7. The SPEC pressure plate is heavier than the OEM PP. I got the regular Stage III. I'd recommend that anybody contemplateing a SPEC clutch/flywheel, to get the lightened version. I believe that the lightweight of the alum flywheel, is offset by the heavier PP.

The alum. flywheel has a replaceable steel friction surface. So when it wears out, you simply replace the firiction surface, instead of resurfacing the whole flywheel. That prevents clutch engagement problems caused by making the flywheel to thin by resurfacing.

The stage III clutch is quite a bit stiffer than the OEM clutch. The OEM clutch has always been mushy, even since I bought the car new. Maybe I was just used to the Muscle Car clutches of the 60s & 70s. Anyway, the stage III will give you a lot more feedback through the pedal than the OEM ever could. You won't get "Gorilla Leg" from it, but you'll know when you're pushing on it.

68COUGAR
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply....I'm considering the SPEC I or II clutch, definately not the III. I don't plan on any major mods, certainly under 275 HP.

I appreciate the feedback....
 
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