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Discussion Starter #1
Hello gang,

Took my car on a road trip today and things did not go as planned :redmad:. Well into the trip the car would hesitate and begin to stall at highway speeds if I gave it gas too quickly....and by quickly I mean normal....not like I was trying to go WOT. Every time this happened I would have to pull over to side of road and once I slowed down to around 10mph RPMs would drop to 500 and car would completely stall and shut off.

This happened at least 5 times and each time the car would start right up again, but after a bit it would repeat. If I was in a position to have car towed and find alternative I would have, but this was work trip and time was of the essence so I soldiered on with the car.

I'll preface all of this by stating that the car has had a freaking ton done to where it "should" run like new but it seems every time I turn around something else is wrong with this damn car.

Things done in last 2 years for maintenance:
- New IAC
- NEW MAF sensor and adapter
- New Purge Valve solendoid and adapter and connecting hoses
- New plugs and wires
- Fuel system cleaning
- New Oil pan adapter gasket
- New Head gaskets
- New vaccuum hoses
- New O2 sensors (all 4)
- All new fluids (coolant, power steering, etc.)

That's everything engine, intake, and fuel system related I can thing of that's been done.

The only code the car is throwing right now is P1445 which is the damn purge valve system that shop rebuilt once already this past summer. I don't believe they changed the actual canister and read "maybe" that could be cause???

Other potential culprits I've read are:
- bad fuel pressure regulator
- fuel pump on its way out
- bad MAF (but that "should" throw it's own code)

I am taking the car back to shop soon to have warranty work done on purge valve system they took care of to get code fixed. Hoping that fixes stalling issue as well I described above.

Anybody else had their car behave this way? Note, I've been driving locally and been up to around 50mph consistently with no problems. Was not until highway speeds it started flaking out on me.
 

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Sputter makes me think fuel pressure or really really bad fuel. But if IAC and all the regular culprits have been squashed I'd definitely go towards the fuel system again. Fuel filter, check fuel pressure, FPR, and finally pump.
 

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Bad tps can also cause a false sputter feeling too.
Going wot can make it fall on its face and sputter and some times die, the higher the rpms the more you feel it
 

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Just a thought. Have you checked out the exhaust system??
. These cars have a major problems with the catalytic converters breaking up and wedging itself which causes the exact symptoms you are experiencing. ( usually the center converter that joins the two pipes ). one sign this is happening is the exhaust gets quieter and you hear more from the intake when you get on the throttle. ( this will also cause a lack of vacuum and give evap codes some times).
In most cases a few minutes on the highway can do the same as giving it hell, so for testing I usually give it hell.
A simple test is after problem shows, loosen the exhaust manifold flanges and drive again. ( yes it will sound bad ) but if problem goes away then you know what needs to be done .. you can also check the cats with a thermal probe , pyrometer or laser temp gauge, to find the culprit.. another tool is a back pressure gauge you screw in where the front O2 goes so you can see if it builds pressure showing a blockage.

If you already have deleted them then good luck to ya.
 

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Just a thought. Have you checked out the exhaust system??
. These cars have a major problems with the catalytic converters breaking up and wedging itself which causes the exact symptoms you are experiencing. ( usually the center converter that joins the two pipes ). one sign this is happening is the exhaust gets quieter and you hear more from the intake when you get on the throttle. ( this will also cause a lack of vacuum and give evap codes some times).
In most cases a few minutes on the highway can do the same as giving it hell, so for testing I usually give it hell.
A simple test is after problem shows, loosen the exhaust manifold flanges and drive again. ( yes it will sound bad ) but if problem goes away then you know what needs to be done .. you can also check the cats with a thermal probe , pyrometer or laser temp gauge, to find the culprit.. another tool is a back pressure gauge you screw in where the front O2 goes so you can see if it builds pressure showing a blockage.

If you already have deleted them then good luck to ya.
Good lucky cracking loose a bolt on the stock exhaust any where .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will have the fuel system checked out first because I have a feeling that's where problem lies, just a gut feeling. I don't think it would be the cats only because I had those checked out a about a year ago and everything was ok at the time.

Was so frustrated with this car during the trip I actually started looking up dealerships while I was out of town to buy something else and just get rid of this thing. Super frustrating when you sink all this money into something and feel like there are still a ton of things needing to be done. Every time I think "alright, now I can invest in paint job" some other mechanical gremlin pops up.

Seriously thinking a Dodge Challenger is in my future.
 
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