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Discussion Starter #1
I am replacing my stabilizer bar links and on both sides the lower half bolt is stuck. Any suggestions for removing this thing? I have used PB Blaster, ball joint separator with both hammer and air powered separators and nothing.

The top one popped out without issue with the air powered separator and the hammer one.

Heat? Ball joint press? Though I don't think there is enough room to fit it in there with the strut in the way.
 

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Take a hammer and hit on the edge of the sway bar, and it will pop out. Definitely don't use heat, as that will change the spring properties of the sway bar.
 

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I use a pitman arm puller on the sway bar side.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And you had enough room? Seems like there is just not enough room to get anything of the sort in there...

I will consider this idea, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Picked one up at autozone as a loaner. Will see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As I had said earlier, there is little to no room to use anykind of remover in the limited area due to the lower strut mount is in the way.

I found it really easy to pop off the lower stabilizer bar link but removing the four bolts holding the bar bushings in place (see post on stabilizer bar bushing removal). Once that was done, I could move the link out of the way of the strut, hook up the pitman arm removal tool and tighten it down. Next thing I know I hear a "pop" and it was out of the bar. Both sides where easy to do. And since it easy to remove the bar bushing mount bolts, it makes it easy to remove the lower link.

Hope this helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Note:

Note: If doing both the bushings and the links, tighten links to 28-39 ft lbs before tightening the bushing mounts. Bushing mounts are 29-53 ft lbs. And not that it says anywhere, but I would rotate the tightening of the bolts for each mount by 6 turns on one, 6 turns on the other till they are tight. Then torque to spec. and go the other mount.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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As I had said earlier, there is little to no room to use anykind of remover in the limited area due to the lower strut mount is in the way.

I found it really easy to pop off the lower stabilizer bar link but removing the four bolts holding the bar bushings in place (see post on stabilizer bar bushing removal). Once that was done, I could move the link out of the way of the strut, hook up the pitman arm removal tool and tighten it down. Next thing I know I hear a "pop" and it was out of the bar. Both sides where easy to do. And since it easy to remove the bar bushing mount bolts, it makes it easy to remove the lower link.

Hope this helps someone else.
It does. I put off installing my TRWs because of the clearance issue on the bar side, I was going to do them when I do the motor since I can yank the sway bar(I need to lower the K for my intake, so that's feasible ). I can't believe It didn't occur to me to unbolt the bushings!

I'll just do those at a later date now, I've got a lot on that engine swap plate that's been bearing down on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've got a lot on that engine swap plate that's been bearing down on me.
But it will be so WORTH it when you are done.

I could not believe how easy the bushings to were to replace especially using a locking knife to just cut the bushings in half. No fuss. I tried the hack saw first and about wore me out, just not worth the effort when a sharp locking knife and pushing real hard will just cut right through it.

Best of luck on the engine replacement. It will be worth it.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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I need to reweire the EEC harness to match the engine harness I built, route and fab the steering shaft around the Mustang manifolds or Headers depending on fitment, figure out how to temporarily cobble them to my current pipes until I can bring it to a shop do do my Mandrels, pull the trans apart to replace the bent shift fork, install the new clutch, Unbolt the K member, measure it, make the shims, carefully and neatly cut bracing off the hood, put the whole mess back together, install the tune, and deal with whatever speedbumps comes along the way. I plan to to this in 2 days by myself. I'm putting off the endlinks :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I need to reweire the EEC harness to match the engine harness I built, route and fab the steering shaft around the Mustang manifolds or Headers depending on fitment, figure out how to temporarily cobble them to my current pipes until I can bring it to a shop do do my Mandrels, pull the trans apart to replace the bent shift fork, install the new clutch, Unbolt the K member, measure it, make the shims, carefully and neatly cut bracing off the hood, put the whole mess back together, install the tune, and deal with whatever speedbumps comes along the way. I plan to to this in 2 days by myself. I'm putting off the endlinks :tongue:
Ah... a "project" car.... yeah, I do everything myself as well, then I know its done right and can't blame anyone but myself it something goes wrong.

Seriously though, best of luck on your "project" car. With all that work done, it will really be worth it. Oh, and yeah I said to the wife "it'll take 2 days max.... " I am into day 4 now... ugh...


I was asking myself "why not just put new rubber grease covers over the old links..." I read in the service manual to replace them outright if the grease covers are torn. Interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I finished today, got he car dropped off the jacks and drove it out of the garage. The U joints too the longest due to nature of having to drop the exhaust and lower the gas tank to pull the drive shaft out.

I used the old nuts for the links cause the new ones where the locking kind and trying put them on just spun the bolt.

Here are some pictures of the pics:
 

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