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Anything But Typical
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1,337 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Did a search, didn't find what I wanted.

I was on my way home from the base today, when my car just stalled. The radio was still on, etc. I turned the key off, started the car again. Drove it home with no problems. Right before it stalled, the check engine light came on and then it stalled. Luckily no one was behind me, otherwise I may have gotten hit!

We already had problems with it stalling when cold but fixed it, and for a while now, sometimes when I'm driving it, it will "stumble" or "cough" or "choke" whatever you want to call it. The RPMs will drop, and then it will pick right up again. We know there's a vacuum leak, but haven't been able to locate it yet. We've replaced both 02 sensors, MAF, IAC, wires, plugs, and a couple other things, too. That made the car quit stalling when cold. But, it still "coughs".

What I want to know is.... Is there something other than a vacuum leak I should be looking for? And, if not, is there a "common" place to look for a vacuum leak?

Anyone that wants to come down and help is more than welcome to do so! I'll feed you!

Thanks!

--Molly
 

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Premium Member
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3,247 Posts
Fuel pump on it's way out maybe?

Have you had the car scanned to see if the codes are still there?
 

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Registered
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7,758 Posts
I would suspect a cam/crank sensor is getting ready to fail or like Rolling-Thunder said the fuel pump.

The code should be stored in the computer, but I'll bet it will indicate a "misfire".

Also, when it dies does the tach move or does it just drop to “0” even though the engine is still turning over? If it’s not moving, it could indicate an ignition problem.

Let us know of any codes and good luck. :thumbsup:
 

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Premium Member
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3,247 Posts
There were some TCCoA'ers who found the wire connector on either the cam or crank sensor had gotten corroded, causing problems.

An easy one to check at least.
 

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I used to have similar issues. I would get a very low idle at stop lights, etc and occasionally stall out while making a slow turn. It was very sudden most times and I had no warning. However I narrowed it down to times when I let up on the gas (no throttle). It never happened at any open throttle. I replaced everything, and I mean everything. IAC, plugs, wires, coil packs, everything EGR related, PCV, fuel filter, MAF, IAT

I replaced the IAC 3 times in 6 months. After each time it fixed the problem for a while, then it would return again. I did some checking and found that Ford’s quality standards for the IAC are so low that 25% fail prematurely. I must have purchased 3 bad ones. What are the odds!?

Also check your fuel filter. I had one get so clogged the car wouldn’t start.

Dirty MAF could also be the culprit. I had a month long fight with my K&N filter spraying oil on the MAF. I would clean it and a few days later the car would bog down again.

Anyway, hope that helps. I’m in MA if you need a hand.
 

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02 Explorer Pioneer
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2,880 Posts
I had similar issues when my MAF was dying. It gradually got worse until it wouldn't start at all. If that is the issue if you unplug the MAF it will start and get you home.
 

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Anything But Typical
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1,337 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The MAF and fuel filter are both about a month old each.

When I stallled, and when the car drops it's RPMs (I call it a "gasp", because that's what she seems to be doing), I'm going a steady speed. I'm not trying to stop or anything, I'm on the road. And it's various speeds, too. Today, when it stalled I was going about 30-35. Sometimes, when she gasps, I'm going 60, 70, 80, and sometimes I'm going 20.

I'll check out what you guys have recommended (as long as I can find where Craig hid the Haynes manual!), and let you know if it works or not. Keep your fingers crossed!

--Molly
 

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When crank sensors fail the car often just dies then picks back up or dies then restarts and after while dies and will not restart. A definate possibility for you.

I'd check for codes first though, you said your CE light was on for a second so you may have some stored codes a failing crank sensor will often not throw a code.
 

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Anything But Typical
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1,337 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, it died and just coasted. Turned the key off, and it started right back up, no lights, no funny sounds, nothing. Sounded great, ran great.

:zdunno:

--Molly
 

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It is also posible that you might have a coroded ground for the ECU. I had a problem with my K&N for a while and I started using a paper towl and dabbed it on the filter to get out the excess oils. I don't quite think it's the MAF. Usually they would decrease power/acceleration and I don't think that it could be a coil pack, but possible. I had a coil pack go bad on a '91 stang 4cyl. It wouldn't die though, it would lose the tach (drop to 0) and almost stall. Replaced it with one of the old ones from my car and it ran fine. It could be cam sensor. Its magnetic like a pick-up coil in an electronic distributor (like in an '88 Bronco II). My '88 bronco II I had a few years ago would do what you have explainded. It would stall and I would simply crank it up. It kept getting worse like it would stall but had to wait a few minutes and then it would crank. Finally, one day it wouldn't crank at all and I had replaced everythink related to ignition except the pick-up coil down inside the distributor. I'm sorry for the little story since it has nothing to do with your problem but the piont is that they're both magnetic and somehow start to join the "dark side."



Clay
 
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