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Discussion Starter #1
I really hate to post this but really, I've looked and nothing is popping up. .....So I have a 94' Cougar xr7 w/ stock 4r70w transmission and stock 4.6 SOHC engine (Both have about 228,000 miles). Last night when driving I hit about 60 MPH and my transmission slipped out of 4th gear, started blinking the "O/D OFF" (meaning Problem) and then dropped into second gear and did not pass second. The following day I took off the oil pan and found that there were metal shavings inside the oil pan. (Burnt 3/4 gear) Now im in need of a new transmission and so far from reading the 94' year 4r70w are one of the worst made and that I should put in any Mark VIII 98+ any 01- 03' GT' 4r70w.

Nothing I read up on is just for a completely stock, no upgrades done transmission swap. What do I actually need to do besides Re-pin the connector from the 94' style to the 98' + Or the 01'- 03' pin style. Is that really all I have to do before spending the only money I got on a transmission that might not work in my car? Please help me. :(
 

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IMO it is easier to get a ready to go late model transmission, give me a call and I will explain it more in detail 513 898 1580
If it doesn't show I am up late.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
IMO it is easier to get a ready to go late model transmission, give me a call and I will explain it more in detail 513 898 1580
If it doesn't show I am up late.
Alan
Thanks, I expect to get a trans. from a local Pick-A-Parts yard. I really don't have a lot of money to put out on my car right now either. This is sort of my last resort type of thing. Is that even worth doing?
 

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Like I said give me a call and I will try to tell you the possible scenario's on how to go about it. no plug and play transmission used OEM is worth installing. If you want to do it a few times before you do it right then go that route. For the same money you can put a low mileage transmission. These cars are old and don't interchange so the yards think the good transmissions are gold, later model units aren't in demand so the prices are better but they can be changed to work. You can do that yourself or get someone who knows how to do it. Just swapping the required parts over is fairly simple for me. I can't suggest it to someone who isn't familiar with transmissions however.
Alan
 

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Like I said give me a call and I will try to tell you the possible scenario's on how to go about it. no plug and play transmission used OEM is worth installing. If you want to do it a few times before you do it right then go that route. For the same money you can put a low mileage transmission. These cars are old and don't interchange so the yards think the good transmissions are gold, later model units aren't in demand so the prices are better but they can be changed to work. You can do that yourself or get someone who knows how to do it. Just swapping the required parts over is fairly simple for me. I can't suggest it to someone who isn't familiar with transmissions however.
Alan
Again this is like a last resort type of issue. I will definitely give you a call tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

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Future Investments:
Aluminum PI Heads and Intake
Aluminum drive shaft
3.73 gearing
4 wheel disc brakes
Chipped
Let me suggest, instead:

Tuner
4 Wheel Discs
3.73 gearing
Aluminum PI heads and intake
One-piece driveshaft, either aluminum or carbon fibre


BETTER order to do them in, IMO.

You don't need to chip this car - buy the tuner, and you can get mail order tunes for a lot of it (to really wake it up properly, you need a dyno tune, but the mail order tune from the better tuners will STILL be better than the factory tune.)

Check over in the ECC Tuning subforum for suggestions.

RwP
 

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Robert P. is the guy we all go to in the Carolinas - he can hook you up with the right ppl/equipment for the tune and some great advice for future mods.

Dirtyd0g is the Transmission guru here for everyone.

www.robstireandauto.com
www.dirtydogperformance.com
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think the Aluminum heads and PI intake need to be the first thing on my car....Considering my valves are torn up and im eating a quart of oil every other week.....But then again while I had my engine out I've seemed to notice an oil pan gasket leakage, including my valve cover gaskets.
 

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Well I would give Robert a call and see if he has any or DirtyD0g depending on how much you want to spend I know he is a TrickFlow vendor so IMHO those are the best heads - they have a wicked design that flows really good. That's just my two cents :)
 

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Well I would give Robert a call and see if he has any or DirtyD0g depending on how much you want to spend I know he is a TrickFlow vendor so IMHO those are the best heads - they have a wicked design that flows really good. That's just my two cents :)
Wicked! There is a word we used to use a lot up north, don't hear it must down south! lol

Sorry, not to distract from the thread....
 

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LOL I was born and raised in Brooklyn, NY and moved to PA for most of my adult life haha. Can't get all that "up north" out of me I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Before I forget!!.......If hypothetically I decided to use the 8 tooth setup from the 98+ trans, do I have to absolutely get the speedometer re-calibrated that day? or would I be able to post pone it for a bit? I guess what im asking is if anything in my car will break because of the postponement of the calibration.






...sorry to drag this on guys..
 

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Failure to do so will cause improper shift timing, improper shift feel, improper speedometer reference and could limit the life of the transmission. The gear to fix it is about $9
I have to tell you after talking to you the other day I would be very hesitant to install one within the price range you desire, unless your budget has changed I suggest selling the car. The fluid alone will consume 1/3 of the budget unless you use cheaper dexIII then you will be needing a transmission quickly again or at least a torque converter. That and I assume you will be installing it yourself on the ground, it can be done but these cars are not a 1968 chevrolet. You have to decide which path to take to get the driveshaft out and the exhaust absolutely must be removed. Around here the cars are rusted and a torch is required for removal. Then the studs usually have to be replaced nearly every time.
Alan
 

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I really hate to post this but really, I've looked and nothing is popping up. .....So I have a 94' Cougar xr7 w/ stock 4r70w transmission and stock 4.6 SOHC engine (Both have about 228,000 miles). Last night when driving I hit about 60 MPH and my transmission slipped out of 4th gear, started blinking the "O/D OFF" (meaning Problem) and then dropped into second gear and did not pass second. The following day I took off the oil pan and found that there were metal shavings inside the oil pan. (Burnt 3/4 gear) Now im in need of a new transmission and so far from reading the 94' year 4r70w are one of the worst made and that I should put in any Mark VIII 98+ any 01- 03' GT' 4r70w.

Nothing I read up on is just for a completely stock, no upgrades done transmission swap. What do I actually need to do besides Re-pin the connector from the 94' style to the 98' + Or the 01'- 03' pin style. Is that really all I have to do before spending the only money I got on a transmission that might not work in my car? Please help me. :(
I think you answered how crappy the early 4R70W actually was/is in your first post.
My gut tells me that you are not really needing a full-on update for performance usage, the OP traveled over 200.000 thousand miles at his power output.
I'm positive that anyone modifying the valve body controls of 4R70W/AODE to achieve "tire barking" shift candy is looking at a long road of repairs ahead of them, and not just confining repairs to the transmission in a MN12 chassis from the added snap. But if you are smart, evaluate what your needs are, Allen can build an extremely strong unit to probably outlast most cars he builds them for, in the OP's case, stock made it 200+ thousand, Allen has built some stout equipment, but sooner or later those forward clutch seals will Pop/Blow/Wear out from usage.
The intermediate roller clutch works just fine and for a long time as long as your not attempting to (squawk) tires in a 3800+ lb vehicle. Cure what ails it certainly, but use your head, send Allen your stocker and he'll send back a unit more than capable of outlasting your car. imho.

Kevin.
 

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I think you answered how crappy the early 4R70W actually was/is in your first post.
My gut tells me that you are not really needing a full-on update for performance usage, the OP traveled over 200.000 thousand miles at his power output.
I'm positive that anyone modifying the valve body controls of 4R70W/AODE to achieve "tire barking" shift candy is looking at a long road of repairs ahead of them, and not just confining repairs to the transmission in a MN12 chassis from the added snap. But if you are smart, evaluate what your needs are, Allen can build an extremely strong unit to probably outlast most cars he builds them for, in the OP's case, stock made it 200+ thousand, Allen has built some stout equipment, but sooner or later those forward clutch seals will Pop/Blow/Wear out from usage.
The intermediate roller clutch works just fine and for a long time as long as your not attempting to (squawk) tires in a 3800+ lb vehicle. Cure what ails it certainly, but use your head, send Allen your stocker and he'll send back a unit more than capable of outlasting your car. imho.

Kevin.
I agree with you that Alan can build one heck of a unit and that's just from what I have read from his many satisfied customers. However those of us looking to prolong the life of the tranny without going for a full on build will (if we are smart) do the J-mod, which will "bark" the tires at WOT even with a mild J-mod. Now again hopefully we are smart about it and upgrade/check the rear, driveshaft etc. to make sure it can handle it.

I just re-read the original post and it seems you have to put a new unit in anyway - my opinion - have one of those two go over it and make sure it's all good, put it in, and enjoy your bird.

The J-mod has been developed by one of the engineers that helped design our trannies, I tend to trust that what he is telling us is legitimate information IMHO. If budget allows I say go with allan or Robert P. as I've said all along and get your self a bullet proof unit but if not do the J-mod and you won't be dissapointed.
 

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The cheapest way to do it is get a low mileage late model unit and swap in the control components you need to make it work.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Failure to do so will cause improper shift timing, improper shift feel, improper speedometer reference and could limit the life of the transmission. The gear to fix it is about $9
I have to tell you after talking to you the other day I would be very hesitant to install one within the price range you desire, unless your budget has changed I suggest selling the car. The fluid alone will consume 1/3 of the budget unless you use cheaper dexIII then you will be needing a transmission quickly again or at least a torque converter. That and I assume you will be installing it yourself on the ground, it can be done but these cars are not a 1968 chevrolet. You have to decide which path to take to get the driveshaft out and the exhaust absolutely must be removed. Around here the cars are rusted and a torch is required for removal. Then the studs usually have to be replaced nearly every time.
Alan
My price range has been moved up slightly and will continue to do so. THE LAST thing I would do is sell my cougar. I love my car and dont want to get rid of it. If anything does go wrong with it I will stay dedicated to fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've heard that the 98 lincoln mark eight has the same tooth setup as mine and that I should only have to switch the tourque converter,TCC, MLPS, and the flex plate... but again I may be wrong.
 

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This is true and was important 8-10 years ago, now even those are old and worn out. Age is a killer they either have high mileage or have been sitting, both are equally bad.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is true and was important 8-10 years ago, now even those are old and worn out. Age is a killer they either have high mileage or have been sitting, both are equally bad.
Alan
How much do you re-build transmissions for?
 
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