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Discussion Starter #1
what's the best way to remove the starter? getting to all three bolts looked very difficult. i searched on the tccoa and one post said to remove the exhaust. another suggested removal of the intake airbox and tube.

what's the best way to do this?
 

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You don't have to remove the exhaust.

It's a bear of a job. More proof these are truck engines dropped into a car.

It was 2 years ago when I replaced my starter but I remember some long extensions and Ujoint sockets coming in handy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i will try and i will succeed eventually.

my friend with a civic couldn't understand why i would have problems with removing my starter. his is located on top in his engine bay and has complete access. he likes his car more and more every time he helps me tinker on the cougar.
 

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Chapter Director Coordinator
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no chit.. when that downtube is "relocated" it makes life hella easy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i already tried taking out the catalytic converter, but the two bolts were rusted way too bad...i'd break them for sure, and i don't want to deal with that right now.


green bird, with the 3" extension and swivel joint, did you go at it from the top or bottom? also, what else did you remove (intake tube, box, valve cover, etc.)?

3" sounds a lot shorter than what other people have used, so you might have the most straight forward method for my situation.
 

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From the bottom. I would stick the socket on the bolt, then get the extension and u-joint on the socket, then put the ratchet on the u-joint. It was hard, going one or two clicks at a time. I don't remember if I had the down tube off or not.
 

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I used like 2 or 3, 3" extentions to go past the end of the starter and a large ratchet to get the top bolt that you can barely see. It was about 40* when I did mine so it was a little harder, it seemed like a piece of cake to me. I didn't even use a wobble socket or anything just alot of little extensions that got me just past the starter. And I put all 3 back, mental issues ^_^
 

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i removed my cat and it is definitly alot easier to get to the bolts. but i have a slight problem... i rounded the **** out of the top pain in the *** bolt. Am i screwed? the bolts are 10 mm right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
can someone confirm the following:

'you can get all the starter bolts out with extensions and wobble/U joints... while keeping the stock exhaust in place'
 

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I replaced mine using some extensions and a universal. I did it from underneath with the car on jackstands. I didn't remove the exhaust when I did it either. I agree with the others though, it's a good idea to leave the top bolt out when putting it back in.
 

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boba said:
can someone confirm the following:

'you can get all the starter bolts out with extensions and wobble/U joints... while keeping the stock exhaust in place'
I used a 6" extension, but it was easier since I was standing up and had a light because the car was on a lift. Its just rough if you arent used to working blindly(top bolt) having to only feel for the bolts. Thank goodness Im used to workin on navy jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
got it off. all three bolts out and all three bolts in. didn't remove any intake or exhaust. i just used a bunch of extensions, wobble joints, and a u-joint. i took one bolt off from underneath the car with minimal extensions. the other two used ~4' of extensions and we went at it from above the engine bay near the front of the car. i had a friend with small hands locate the socket on the bolt heads.

and the problem wasn't the starter. i still have to figure out what's wrong.

also, while under the car, when poking my extremely rusted oil pan...oil permeated out in small dots. i am amazed that the pan hasn't cracked and dumped all my oil, as it seems extremely thin. i cleaned it up and smeared liquid metal all over it. hopefully it can last me another few thousand miles.
 

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Oh, if you can spray lots of PB Blaster or some other kind of penetrant all over the bolts, and let it sit at least an hour before you start turning wrenches.
 

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Do you hear the starter engage when the ignition is turned to the crank position? Do you just hear a POP type sound and then all of the electrical (clock, dome light, etc.) die when in the crank position? I am posting the diagnosis routine(s) from the manual. . . .They can be downloaded/viewed at http://www.guardcows.com/ford
 
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