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Discussion Starter #1
Today, I went to start my car after a short trip and had no luck. I tried jumping the car thinking it was the battery, but that didn't help
I ended up hitting the starter with a hammer and that did the trick!

My question is, would replacing the starter solenoid fix this or do I need a new starter?


Thanks!
 

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Your starter just locked up. It should still last you for a while. But in the long run the whole starter unit will have to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the quick replies! I'll listen for the click click sound. In the meantime I'll carry a hammer, and if it happens again I'll look to replace the starter. Looks like I can get a better deal on a motorcraft one as opposed to o'reillys so I might as well go that route in the near future.

thanks
 

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Yes go with motorcraft. It will be around for a while. Although, I have been running a USA industries starter for a few years now and am starting to get a little bendix noise. Motorcraft will be my next choice. If you have tons of miles I would go ahead and replace the whole assembly before the hammer wont work on it. I use a hammer sometimes to go pick up customers cars with starter concerns. Sometimes it doesnt work and also the hammering is bad for the brushes, supposedly.
-Rob
 

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I GET THE CLICK CLICK SOUND! its so annoying. it always ends up starting but over time it just gets worse and worse and takes longer to start. so master your saying its not something wrong with my car its just a poor design? because iv had to replace it like two or three times in probably the last year or so... i thought maybe too much power was being sent to it burning it out. tried to find a solution many times...
 

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The last TBird ( 1994 4.6 ) with an intermittent No Start condition I worked on turned out the wiring to the neutral safety switch ( MLPS ) was shorting out.
 

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Ford in their infinite wisdom decided this: The power to energize the solenoid starts at the ignition switch when you turn the key to START. It then runs through the dash harness down to transmission where it goes through the MLPS. It exits the MLPS and goes back up to the dash harness and exits at the left bulkhead connector on the firewall. From there it travels through the engine bay harness to right under the power distribution box where it connects to the wire alongside the battery cables that ultimately leads to the starter solenoid. The power through this wire starts at the ignition switch, so if anything happens along the way such as a bad MLPS or corroded connection, the power at the end of the circuit will be diminished. A simple relay that delivers power to the solenoid directly from the battery is a much better design and was used for years, but not in the later years of these cars. There are 6 connection points and 2 switches in total for this circuit that energizes the solenoid, so there's plenty that can go wrong.
 

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my god.. well good to know i guess.
 

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He needs a starter. When the brushes are about gone, a wack will make it go a few more times. My car had the infamous intermittant/hold key for 20 seconds might crank problem. Replaced neutral switch, ignition switch and starter. Finally added a slave solenoid to cure the problem. BTW, go with a Motorcraft starter....they are too much a PITA to install a cheap one!

Bob
 

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I had my starter rebuilt at a local shop that specializes in automotive electric systems for half the cost of a new starter (and no core).
 
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