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I'm seriously thinking about getting a set of Rich's front/rear strut tower bars for my car to improve the handling. Since my car is very heavy, I am concerned about the chassis stiffening. The car takes a pounding, not because I beat it up, but because the roads I drive on are really crappy. I'm worried that eliminating the give in the car would put undue stress on other parts of the car, resulting in stress cracks or more wear and tear on the suspension. Are my concerns justified or will the suspension just soak it up w/o any trouble? If anybody has had any trouble or good luck with this, let me know.

Also you guys running Rich's or JL's stuff, how do you like it?
 

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I am running JL's K-member brace, SFC, and rear STB. I really like it. The car is much more solid than it was before. I have had no problems with stress cracks and I drive on some bad roads, and it seems to soak up bumps better now that I have the connectors than when I didn't.


Russell
 

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Well, since I've only made about 10 rear stbs, I'd say that JL has the market cornered. I haven't made a front brace yet, just mocked one up for a couple friends with Supercoupes. I also have no intention of making SFCs at all, and am going to order mine from JL in the near future.

In regards to your question, I would much rather rely on my shocks and springs to do their jobs, then rely on chassis flex to do it for them. Which would you rather have, worn out shocks or a tweaked chassis?
 

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Rich95XR7 said:

In regards to your question, I would much rather rely on my shocks and springs to do their jobs, then rely on chassis flex to do it for them. Which would you rather have, worn out shocks or a tweaked chassis?
Wise words..and logical thinking.
JL
 

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I put a Kenny Brown strut tower brace in mine four years ago, and I have no issues with it. It came with cheap hardware, but I bought some grade 8 equivalent stainless 12 point bolts and nyloc nuts from ARP to mount it with. I felt like it firmed up the front end a little, but that's probably because I shelled out $120... The coil packs had to be maneuvered around, too. 6 holes to drill, no big deal. Measure and mark twice, drill once.

JL wasn't making his parts yet when I bought mine, but everything I've ever read here about his stuff is positive, and I'd venture to say he'll back anything he makes up. Rich has been around a while, too. One of these days I'll get around to the other braces.

My Fiero GT flexes big time, since I put the polyurethane bushings and lowering springs in it. I can see cracks in the paint all around the sun roof opening. Someday I'll figure out how to stiffen its chassis structure up as well. I'm a firm believer in the theory that the suspension needs to do the work, not the chassis. The less equivalent unsprung weight, the better.
 

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Want to see flexing? You should have seen my old Mustang, even with subframe connectors, I had a noticeable buckle behind the rear quarter windows. Upon further inspection, The welds that run around the inner fender welds in the rear hatch had seperated, and had seperated enough to where you could look through and see the rear axle and the ground. There was no way to fix it, so the car was officially scrapped. I used to be like everyone else, and figured the rear braces really didn't make much of a difference, but a rear STB would have saved my car.
 
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