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Discussion Starter #1
I went to MSR and played on the road track on Sunday.

When taking a hard left turn the steering locks up. There's a kind of buzzing vibration that I can feel thru the steering wheel while it's locked. To get it to release I have to jerk the wheel. After I jerk the wheel it goes back to normal. And feels like it should.

The car has new upper ball joints as of 12/03. and I just got a second alignment (the first one sucked.. positive toe is no bueno). The lower control arms are good, the tie rods are good. and the sway bar is good. The power steering fluid is full.

This leaves either the the PS pump or the rack... I think...

input would be appreciated

:D
 

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My car does that really bad when the front camber is too positive. Occasionally it will do it now :D
-Rob
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wish it was as easy as an alignment to fix it, or maybe it is, who knows...

my old specs were:

Front

Camber .2

Caster -.6

Toe .12

Rear

Toe .16

Thrust Angle .02

Needless to say those specs sucked royal arse...


My current alignment specs are:


Front

Camber .1

Caster -.6

Toe -.06

Rear

Toe -.04

Thrust Angle -.01

My last alignment was a lot better, but I still have the same problem.

Occasionally I can hear a very slight clunk from the right front while doing parking lot maneuvers. I can't seem figure out how to actually reproduce the "clunk" it just happens from time to time. I've looked over the front end from top to bottom and I cannot find anything wrong. I can't see what could cause any part of it to bind under load (stock sway bar) The upper ball joints are new. The lowers show no signs of slop, the tie rods are nice and tight too. There isn't any play from the rack either.

I'm stumped on this one. I'm thinking of replacing the rack, but I hate to start throwing money at it w/o actually knowing what's wrong.

Once again, help would be more than welcome...

:D
 

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I was getting major clunk from the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings, if you wanna call them that). They do get worn out over time. I installed new ones, but didnt cut the bushing sleeves short. 6 months later, it was clunking like crazy. I took out the bushings and cut the sleeves 3/8". Now the bushings are tight as hell with no noise, but my alignment is off.

A good way to check this is to get someone to get in your car and you watch the tires. Get them to drive forward, stop, then put it in reverse and let off the brake. If the tires move forward and backward alot when the car is moved between R and D, you can bet your radius arm bushings are shot. Keep looking and let us know what you find!
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got a chance to look at it today, and it doesn't look too bad at all.

There is a little flex from the front end while shifting from drive to reverse. No clunk, or wild movment. It seems pretty normal to me.

Could you be so kind as to pass along a guestimate as to what's acceptable?

:D
 

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I doubt your PS pump would be the culprit. It should work the same regardless of what position the steering wheel is in. And the wheel would still turn, although it would be tough (I drove without PS for a while). It sounds like either the rack or the suspension parts you named. Maybe you should check the control arms for signs of rubbing against the spindle. I mean, maybe they make contact and bind, but only under hard cornering. And I guess it could be in either the right side or left side suspension, if the suspension is to blame.

One more oddball idea: Could the ignition lock cylinder be causing the steering wheel to lock? Just an idea from way out in left field (you know, sometimes the answers are that weird.).
 

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Kaptn' Obvious said:
Occasionally I can hear a very slight clunk from the right front while doing parking lot maneuvers. :D
I have had this on my 95 since new. I have no idea and neither has any front end man. Happens when full or almost full lock and in parking situations.

By the way the rest of you Guys, I never saw a bigger smile on the Kaptn'. He was going pretty darn fast out there, I thought.

We are trying to put together a 3 day conference with 2 days at MSR and one day at Ennis in May or June.
 

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Kaptn' Obvious said:
When taking a hard left turn the steering locks up. There's a kind of buzzing vibration that I can feel thru the steering wheel while it's locked. To get it to release I have to jerk the wheel. After I jerk the wheel it goes back to normal. And feels like it should.:D
How is the tension on the belt? There has been a lot of talk about the pump on SCCoA. So I wonder about the belt possibly sliping. Was there any fluid leaking under the hood even slightly. Any coolant just barly blowing out somewhere? But I recall a Taurus I had that needed a new rack after I took it on the beach. Seems like I had your problem but don't recall the buzz. I want to say that wheel locked, I just don't recall. Well one or the other I think.

Did you check front back air pressure before and after heated up? Somewhere I thought you said front plowed a lot. I run the front at 32cold up to 35 hot. Rear I start out at 29 cold in rear so it will stick, or I get loose. When yuo rode with me I had the rear pressure too high.

Believe my 95 has smaller sway bars than the 90. The 90 handles loads better. So big bars and springs should help. Just need to get installed. If I redo an older SC you are welcome to springs and sway bars. I get more speed in the 90SC than 95SC. 95 is a handfull and don't know how I started with it. 90 is sooo smooth. I have another 90 and an 89 I need to modify. But you may want way better than the SC suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just replaced the belt about a month ago. It seems to be good and tight.

I thought I heard it squeak a couple of times, but it's kinda hard to hear the blet slip over the howling tires. The PS pume is quiet most of the time. sometimes it makes a little noise. Is there any way to adjust the tension on the belt? my gut feeling is that I'm stalling out the PS pump, or the lateral force is starving the pump for fluid.

I or it could be due to the same thing that's causing the clunk, possible the Raduis bushings that were mentioned earlier. I think I'll try replacing them and see if the clunk goes away and where I am after that.

:D
 

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Dumb Question.. is the bump stop on the strut rod?.. I left mine off once, and the spindle was sticking on the threads..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
first I would like to say <b> HOLY THREAD RESURRECTION BATMAN!!!! </b>

Well I'm happy to report that I finally found the problem...

It would seem that the exhaust and the steering linkage are fighting for the same real estate.

<img src="http://www.dallasgothic.com/jbudro/pics/scarlett/interference1.JPG">

As you can see the bolt that connects the steering linkage is hitting the corner of the exhaust manifold.

Now that I've finally found the problem my question is how do I fix it???

The redneck way to fix it would be to grind off part of the bolt or the exhaust manifold. Doing this would cure the symptoms, but not the problem...

The car was in a minor accident. I know the front end isn't quite as it should be, but it's not so far gone that I can't get an alignment. I'm sure this is part of the problem. (pics of the damage <a href="http://www.dallasgothic.com/jbudro/pics/scarlett/">here </a>)

Past that, The bushings on the rack have some dry rot, but don't seem to be too far gone. The motor mounts seem to be decent as well.

For now I'm going to "mod" the the bolt.

Anyone have any input as the the cause of the problem???

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah, I know an alignment isn't going to change anything at all...

motor mounts are not quite on my list of things to as they still seem to be on good shape.

From doing the old fart type of motor mount test the motor pretty much stays put. The car is just shy of hitting the 100K mark and has been pretty well taken care of. I know the motor mounst are fluid filled, is there any way of checking to see what shape they're in?

And does anyone have any clue as to how much clearance there should be between the linkage and exhaust?


thanks for the input

:D
 

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Kaptn' Obvious said:

From doing the old fart type of motor mount test the motor pretty much stays put. The car is just shy of hitting the 100K mark and has been pretty well taken care of. I know the motor mounst are fluid filled, is there any way of checking to see what shape they're in?

And does anyone have any clue as to how much clearance there should be between the linkage and exhaust?

:D
Usually when these motor mounts go - you know it. Look at them and see if the look flattened or have any splits of cracks. Also, the pan will be pretty darn close to the crossmember if the mounts are bad. I don't how much clearance should be between the linkage and the exhaust - but the "educated redneck" method would be to pull the bolt and get another that is slightly shorter. That's atleast better the "grindin 'er off". :gapteeth:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I pulled the bolt out at work and shortened it, seems to have done the trick...

I tried to get another look at the motor mounts, but I can't even get the jack out of my car in my apt complex w/o the parking nazi's telling me to call AAA and I am in voilation of my lease by working on my car in the parking lot :ztoohot:

The motor rolls to the right about an inch or so at around 1200 rpm Any more and i'd be bbq'in some radials :D Otherwise it doesn't even twich moving it from drive to reverse.

I was planning on replacing them with the solid ones when I change the swaybar.


:D

edit: from what I can see now the bottom of the pan is about 1 1/2 higher than the bottom of the K member
 
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